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The injectors should have 12 volts on them. The ECM is the return and where your signal actually is which is the low end of the injector wiring. As I said the high side should have voltage on both wires of each injector while engine is not running. Check to see if a fuse blew.
You can use a noid light also which will show the presence of voltage and the ECM functioning.
As noted above ;12V or injector pulse?
Big difference
Cold start has no affect on the injector; just supplies extra fuel on a cold start like choke on carb car.
If the injectors were working, cranking engine long enough should get it to fire without the CSI
When I said that there was a signal at the injectors, what I meant was to say that we used a noid light, which indicated that they were all functional.
I had oil pressure, fuel pressure, spark, everything..... just no start and it acted like it wasn't getting fuel. So, it is getting fuel to the rail, where the pressure gage is, but not down where it needs to, I guess. We even pulled a plug to see if there was any fuel spray upon cranking. My finger was a little moist, but not was you would expect.
When we misted fuel into the TB it fired and tried to start. Does anyone have a fuel flow chart that I can walk through? Not sure what else to do.
Check the fuel return back to the tank at the tank. Take the return hose off and see if you have flow into a bucket. That might give you some incite. Could the FPR be a problem?
Check the fuel return back to the tank at the tank. Take the return hose off and see if you have flow into a bucket. That might give you some incite. Could the FPR be a problem?
Sounds like FPR indeed.
The fuel will enter through the flow pipe and back out of the return pipe, so as the OP says there is no fuel from the other pipe, it sounds as though there is no circulation.
The flow pipe enters the fuel pressure regulator, which then fills the left hand rail up, then a crossover pipe fills the right hand rail up with fuel, then it returns to the tank via the return pipe, the pipe that the OP says is dry.
So, check that fuel pressure regulator.
Can I pull the FPR off without taking off the intake (plenum & runners)
How can I test the FPR?
When you say that it fills the left rail first, are you talking about the passengers side or the drivers? If the regulator was bad, would it still be showing 42 on the pressure gauge?
Could one of the cross over pipes be clogged? Would shooting air in there help?
Sounds like FPR indeed.
it sounds as though there is no circulation.
Maybe but he has 42psi at the rail which should fire the engine if the injector are working
If the FPR is not working and venting fuel at the set point , you would expect higher pressure @ rail
Easy to get 50psi with stock pump and AFPR
Maybe but he has 42psi at the rail which should fire the engine if the injector are working
If the FPR is not working and venting fuel at the set point , you would expect higher pressure @ rail
Easy to get 50psi with stock pump and AFPR
If he had it at the rail, he'd get it back from the return pipe, but he says that pipe is dry.
If he had it at the rail, he'd get it back from the return pipe, but he says that pipe is dry.
Not if the reg is jammed closed and not opening at set point .
Pump would just be dead heading to the rails same as it does in a carb setup with no return pipe
Not if the reg is jammed closed and not opening at set point .
Pump would just be dead heading to the rails same as it does in a carb setup with no return pipe
Yeah, lol that's what I've already said, he needs to check his regulator. But it enters the reg first (before rails), which is why I suspect his rails are dry.
The flow pipe enters the fuel pressure regulator, which then fills the left hand rail up, then a crossover pipe fills the right hand rail up with fuel, then it returns to the tank via the return pipe,
So under your theory , how do you get pressure build up in the rails if rails are connected directly to tank?
What holds the pressure ?
On EFI fuel goes to rails first then the reg which holds pressure in the rails at the set point
Originally Posted by Ant1981
which is why I suspect his rails are dry.
His rails aren't dry ; he reports 42 psi pressure so he has fuel under pressure in the rails BEFORE the reg
Well on mine I followed the fuel flow line and it enters the reg first. The return exits from the other rail.
Go out to your '85 , undo the fuel SUPPLY line ( the larger 16mm fitting ) , confirm the fuel comes out of line under pressure when you turn the key on and then see where it fits.
It ain't going to the reg
If it was your engine wouldn't be running
The smaller 14mm fitting is return line FROM reg; connects to the steel line that runs on top of RH fuel rail to the reg
16mm supply fitting goes straight into the RH rail
Go out to your '85 , undo the fuel SUPPLY line ( the larger 16mm fitting ) , confirm the fuel comes out of line when you turn the key on and then see where it fits.
It ain't going to the reg
If it was your engine wouldn't be running
The smaller 14mm fitting is return line FROM reg; connects to the steel line that runs on top of RH fuel rail to the reg
16mm supply fitting goes straight into the RH rail
No chance it's covered in snow.
I looked at the pdf, looks like I was wrong about it entering the reggy first.
But then why doesn't he get it firing on just four cylinders then?
ok, now that the holidays have had time to blow over, I was able to get up there today and work on the vette a little. We replaced the fuel pressure regulator, as it seemed to be stuck closed. The diaphram on the old one was getting warn anyways, so probably a good purchase. Now, we have a whole new set of issues.
The fuel pressure is now sporadic, where it was constant before. Sometimes it goes up to 40 psi when you cycle the key and other times it doesn't. Once it jumps up to 40 it immediately begins to bleed off. The fuel pump is getting signal. Do you think that the regulator could have caused the pressure gauge to read falsely high? Do you think my fuel pump is now going out? It still won't start btw. The pressure gauge seems to stay at 40 while cranking, but then bleed off once done, whether the key is on or off.