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I have been battling issues with my digital dash for sometime now. I have repaired the dash once already--re-soldered it in a few locations--Batee.com has a ton of good info on this dash issue--it worked for awhile (wonky) and now i'm back to not having anything display for the coolant temperature and volt location. Both are on the same switch.
I was wondering if i could temporarily hook up an electric aftermarket water temp gauge (any brand suggestions) until i get the dash replaced or repaired again.
Can i use the existing sensor that is in the passenger head and how do i wire up the new temporary gauge??
You can certainly use an aftermarket gauge, as for the sensor being right, not likely. Almost every brand of gauge has its own ohm reading scale, odds of finding one to match the OEM is nearly impossible. However you can just screw in the one supplied with the gauge..
You can certainly use an aftermarket gauge, as for the sensor being right, not likely. Almost every brand of gauge has its own ohm reading scale, odds of finding one to match the OEM is nearly impossible. However you can just screw in the one supplied with the gauge..
Alright then...that certainly answers some of the questions i had in my mind about the sensor and wiring.
I wonder if there is any other way of installing the new sensor someplace else other than in the passenger head??
If you don't have the aux fan in front of rad, you could use the same hole in DS head.
I do have that extra fan in front of the rad. I didn't know that until now. Is that extra fan part of the Z51 package??
I will probably just hold up on this gauge and remove the dash again and try to resolder it once more when i get some time, instead of pissing around swapping out sensors and getting coolant all over the place.
I have been battling issues with my digital dash for sometime now. I have repaired the dash once already--re-soldered it in a few locations--Batee.com has a ton of good info on this dash issue--it worked for awhile (wonky) and now i'm back to not having anything display for the coolant temperature and volt location. Both are on the same switch.
I was wondering if i could temporarily hook up an electric aftermarket water temp gauge (any brand suggestions) until i get the dash replaced or repaired again.
Can i use the existing sensor that is in the passenger head and how do i wire up the new temporary gauge??
Thanks
you pretty much correctly diagnosed your problem. The issue is most likely just a poor contact on the DIC switch panel (the thing above the radio with the 5 switches). DIC switch panel for the most part just "loops" the selected of info back to the cluster. I doubt you have an issue within the cluster itself.
I recommend "working" the volt/coolant switch pretty agressively several times to see if you can't get something to pop up in the display on the cluster. If you still have issues check, clean or reseat the connector on the back of the DIC or the small connector at the cluster. If still having problems replace the DIC switch panel.
Problem solved...put a used replacement digital dash in and everything works properly now. got the dash from Westenracing....
All areas light up and function fine now when you toggle the switches on the info panel.
I pulled my old dash apart and found that the 12 pin female connector --the one that powers the 2 circuit boards together was burned black and melted in a couple of the slots.
I guess that is why the dash would not light up in those areas involved.
I will look for a replacement connector and solder it on the board and sell it or maybe keep it for a spare
New dash lcd temp/volt from batee.com New dash lcd temp/volt from batee.com
Well that did the trick, new LCD for the center Gauges and I have the correct readings again.
I did put in LED lights, but apparently they are not dimmable. Oh well, the dash looks amazing.
I had that same problem with the 12 pin connector between boards in the display, but only with the ground connection. I soldered a #16 wire on each terminal and used insulated spade connectors to build a disconnectable bypass of the connector. You may want to try this with your old display. This will get it back going again until your new parts come in.
I had that same problem with the 12 pin connector between boards in the display, but only with the ground connection. I soldered a #16 wire on each terminal and used insulated spade connectors to build a disconnectable bypass of the connector. You may want to try this with your old display. This will get it back going again until your new parts come in.
Brilliant! I just did the 12 pin re-solder (2 were noticably barely making contact from the pin to the solder) and my replacement bulbs should arrive today from batee. If I have 12 pin issues in the future I'm going to definately use this trick!