Contrary to popular belief, your dealer may be right. A "jump" box can create a 16-20 volt spike & take out your CCM, which will cause all the symptoms you describe. The reason their test equipment won't work is a non communication problem caused by the dead CCM/CM. By the way, I doubt they can get a PCM/ECM. Call us if need either part 770-777-1031 GM AUTOCOMPUTERS.

 

This guy knows what he is talking about. My CCM was at a competitors place twice and out of my car for 6 weeks before K&B aka GM Autocomputers.com fixed it for me. Good guys.

 

How far are you into Michigan in miles or time wise from Indiana off of Interstate 80 ?

Gas just shot up to $3.99&9/10 per gallon this evening for 87 octane.
Saw that driving home in my Vette after work.
93 octane is $4.24&9/10 per gallon for my Vette.

My 110 octane race gas was just $2.60 per gallon just a few years back for my TA.

My wife would not go for the idea running to Michigan to hang out and troubleshoot your Vette in person for just a hot meal and leaving her with the baby boy all day into the evening.

I am allover Illinois monthly as is.

My boy is too young yet to drive long distances with me.
A few years from now he will love the adventure(s) I have traveling and repairing cars, trucks, & racecars.

But if you offer enough $, I will find a way to convince her to go and be back in 2 hours............

She can not beat me from a far distance away.

Brian

 

They say they can get the pcm but i will definatly be calling you if they can't.
Thanks

 

Well i'm actually on the other side of the Makinaw bridge in the Upper Peninsula of michigan... google maps is saying around 10 hours from FT Wayne.

 

Lol.

I am down by Peoria, Illinois.
About 50 minutes driving time to Interstate 80 or I-55 to Chicago.

I can make it in 25 minutes in my Vette around 2-3 am to I-55 or I-80.

Do you have a helicopter or airplane to pick me up?

If I ever have the chance & $ I am going to buy one or the other.

Cut down on travel time greatly!!

 

Mapquest says we are 476 miles apart.

8 hours & 34 minutes apart.

Legal speed limits.

At night I could be there to you in 4.5- 5 hours in my Vette once I get out of Illinois past Chicago.

Interstate 80 @ night in Illinois is full of Hawaii 5' O patrolling.

Indiana & Michigan is clear sailing at night.

I have been to Michigan twice last year.
Daytime & night driving.

I once drove to Dallas Fort Worth, Texas non stop & 1 hour rest on the return trip alone stopping for gasoline and coffee only.
I did that trip in my 1973 Lincoln Mark IV(4) Continental 2dr 460ci V-8 land tank.
I drove almost non stop for 32 hours.( gasoline was around $1.85 a gallon)
I picked up my Sun Distributor Machine in Texas.
Summer of 2002 I made that trip.

My answer to you is maybe.......... looking at your Vette in person and with a little luck in 2 hours or less have it fixed and running for you.

Brian

 

Your bill from the dealership should be 1 hour diagnosis time only.
They fixed nothing.
Chicago shop rate is around $110 - $140 per hour last I knew in 2010.

 

From what i was told... There only charging me for 2 hours labor( not the full 7 that's been put in) and for the PCM.
A good quick run to the UP would definatly be fun. I drove mine from the ohio border to houghton michigan all at one time. Fuel and food breaks that was it.

 

Good luck with your Vette in the coming days.
Hope they get it fixed for you soon.

If you ever travel to Illinois in your Vette and have a serious gas leadfoot likewise.......be sure to hit the brakes hard and slow down below 100 right before you hit Morris, Illinois.

State cops have Laser Radar Guns there.
I have one of the best radar detectors money can buy.
But the cops now are switching their speed detectors on at the last 5 seconds before you are in THEIR view of them.
And they hide very well.
If you see those stupid Orange-Red Crash water barrels in a big lineup or underneath a bridge overpass,
You can count on a "SMOKEY" hiding out there.

Hawk Racing Pads do really work great.
You can slow down from 140+ to 70 MPH right before that cop nails you with the LASER Radar gun.
You have to hit the brakes so hard in my 87 that the ABS nearly activates.
But I can slow down quickly.

Sometimes I look over at those Hawaii 5' O's and smile as I pass them by at 60 - 70.

 

I'm having the exact same issue, right now. the car is at the shop, we have the ccm out, ( major pain in the A$$). there is power to all four of the inputs and a good ground. I'm looking into having the ccm rebuilt. the only place I can find is white racing products out of Tampa FL. The shop did get the car to start and run by applying power to the one of the yellow wires on the start relay. I wouldn't waste the money on the pcm until the ccm is checked. my symptoms are.... no courtesy lights, no door chime with key in or out, no odometer/speedometer, DIC works, no security light, passkey not working, no start/ no crank. brand new battery and side post bolts, replaced passkey battery. checked all fuses. car was taken out of storage, battery had a bad cell had to jump start, all good got home parked it for a couple days dead, charged battery. It started for like 3-4 seconds and died. it did that about 4 times...now just dead. if any one knows a rebuild place please post back. I hope this helps you out too.

 

having the exact same problem. ccm is bad on mine. description is the same. no passkey either. everything else works. this is my second post the first one didn't seem to work, sorry if it overlaps. anyone know of a good rebuild place for ccm?

 

See above posts GMAUTOCOMPUTERS 770-777-1031

 

Actually this is the right approach but I disagree with that no computers drive the instrument panel. The CCM looks to furnish the ground, power and inputs to drive the panel and lamps. Even though the PCM controls the start enable relay, there needs to be a handshake and 50 HZ signal from the CCM to the PCM to close the relay. That is part of pass key and VATS.

This problem has multiple symptoms but you can't go of in several directions at once. You take the symptom that might be easiest to trace down with something concrete to go on and diagnose that first. Then see if other things get resolved.

But I think first you have to determine if the CCM is alive at all. Getting in there for measurements is tough where it lives but checking other CCM function might give you a clue.

These functions are CCM controlled, do any of them work?

High beam indicator
Chimes - key in cylinder, headlights on door open
Key on - seatbelt light
Delayed bus - key on, radio on, key off - does the radio stay on.
Horn

If these things don’t work you are in the CCM area for sure.
If these things are working there is life in your CCM but may or may not be fully functional.
If the CCM is doing these things, than it almost sounds like it does not recognize there is a key in the cylinder because it is no going into the "run" or maybe "wake up" state or mode.

Make sure fuses CCM1, CCM2 and CCM 3 are good, #30, 34, 11.

This is just a simple place to start, don’t even need a meter yet. But it could involved depending on testing results

 

Look on this page towards he top, it's a place called gm autocomputers or something lke that.

 

I don't think these thing are working so i guess i should see about getting a ccm...

 

Hate to be s stickler for details but we really need confirmed yes or no answers or we might be going off in the wrong direction costing time and money.

If you can't get to the car currently to find out for sure what the answers would be, then that’s OK. Delayed correct data is better than wrong fast responses.

The CCM is one pain to get out and I would do all I could to check everything I could think of. Also the CCM is matched to your key (pellet) and records mileage. So it's unlike any other module in the car.

Do you know how to pull the codes by connecting 4 & 12 on the ALDL. This is something else that can be tried when you get to the car. I'm not interested in the codes. I would be wanting to know if the on board diagnostics can communicate and just go thru the functions of displaying no codes of the different modules.

Ask for code help if needed.

 

I'll go over to the dealership tomorrow where the car is parked and see what i can do.
Can you give a more deatiled explination of what i am looking for when checking these
High beam indicator
Chimes - key in cylinder, headlights on door open
Key on - seatbelt light
Delayed bus - key on, radio on, key off - does the radio stay on.
Horn

I've never tried connecting 4 & 12 on the ALDL ( what is a ALDL?).

Also is there a phone number you could PM me so i can call you while i am trying these?

 

Anybody know where the fusible links are at on a 95?

 

If your 1995 Vette is like my 1987 Vette,

The main fusible links are right below the battery & battery tray.

Easiest to access them if you remove the driver's side lower front fender gill.

10mm bolts and a few 7mm screws to remove to free up that fender gill.

GM Fusible links are "ORANGE" in color.

The fusible links are all tied to a 3/8" inch bolt/stud power junction point on my 1987 right below the battery tray.

Shine a Bright Maglight style flashlight around 1st,
You should see the power junction point with all fusible link power point wires coming off.

If I recall correctly this morning there around 10 fusible power link wires.

Do the tug pull test 1st on each.

Then recheck with a test light for power coming through the fusible link(s) and out to each of Your Vettes electrical circuits.

I am glad you are making an attempt on your own to troubleshoot & repair your Corvette.
You may get it done and running again on your own with some guidance from myself and others here on C4.

Brian