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well good thing i can say about tpis is they were very friendly and didn't try to sell me anything. he was very factual and told me about the pros and cons of tpi v.s. miniram.
I think there is a company that can make you a custom sheet metal intake for your application too. They are a little more pricy. Hogan's Racing Manifolds, IIRC. They are much pricier.
My 2 cents- The car is street driven, doesn't sound like you are shooting for top speed. As well, you are on a budget.
First, have you done anything to the restrictive exhaust? This is where to start. Second, are you going to be running the car at prolonged periods of time above 4500rpm? If not, then start with large tube runners and then build upon your system until you have a ported plenum and then big mouth manifold. This will be the best overall performer unless you plan to stay above 4500rpm all the time. Pay attention to your rpms the next time you drive the car, watch Corvettes and other cars running high speed events or time trials on YouTube and pay attention to the rpms. One last thing I didn't hear mentioned, you will need a different fuel rail with the miniram so that is an additional cost.
I want it to be a street and strip car with daily driveability. I also hotrod my truck which is my main daily however it is often down for short periods for upgrads in which place I use the vette.
I know I don't rev high most of the time but not hitting that 4500rpm
wall at the track would really help I think
I want it to be a street and strip car with daily driveability. I also hotrod my truck which is my main daily however it is often down for short periods for upgrads in which place I use the vette.
I know I don't rev high most of the time but not hitting that 4500rpm
wall at the track would really help I think
If you only installed the large tubes and port plenum, you will not hit the 4500rpm wall. I have the rev limiter set at 6000rpm and will sometimes hit it depending on course set up. Although my optimum rpm is between 3500-5000rpm. Another good upgrade is under drive pulleys. It definately reduces parasitic loss which in turn give you more available power to the wheels.
Another good upgrade is under drive pulleys. It definately reduces parasitic loss which in turn give you more available power to the wheels.
Not sure how much it reduces the parasitic loss to justify the cost. Also I wouldn't put the water pump one on since I would prefer to keep the cooling to a max especially when you run the AC in stop and go traffic on a really hot day.
has anyone tried not installing the water pump and alr pully? I bet they would still work fine
My friend was 3 thousands away from breaking into the 11 second class. He took OFF the serpentine belt and made it with 1 or 2 thousands to spare. We pushed the car to the start line, he made a quick burnout, ran down the track, turned around and coasted back and we pushed it. Was it worth it? Sure. He broke into the next class and found he gained 4-5 thousands. Is it really worth the money for 5 thousands of a second?
If we were racing with a huge purse at stake, you bet I will try it. If you want to go without the water pump on the street, be my guest. I took off my AIR pump but left a pulley there. Why? Because I wanted to clean up my engine area. Run without AC? Again, if the purse was large enough and this was a track car, sure. Otherwise, no thanx. I want my creature comforts. Besides the AC can be turned off if you are racing without much of a loss.
Only reason I have underdrive pulleys is that it was either take it or an ex-friend would not be able to pay what he owes. Used only the crank pulley and sold the alternator and water pump
I can't remember if we tried it but I don't think the AC can be bypassed. I might be wrong. You'd have to put a pulley there at the least I think. At least that was how it looked to us when my AC compressor seized
My friend was 3 thousands away from breaking into the 11 second class. He took OFF the serpentine belt and made it with 1 or 2 thousands to spare. We pushed the car to the start line, he made a quick burnout, ran down the track, turned around and coasted back and we pushed it. Was it worth it? Sure. He broke into the next class and found he gained 4-5 thousands. Is it really worth the money for 5 thousands of a second?
If we were racing with a huge purse at stake, you bet I will try it. If you want to go without the water pump on the street, be my guest. I took off my AIR pump but left a pulley there. Why? Because I wanted to clean up my engine area. Run without AC? Again, if the purse was large enough and this was a track car, sure. Otherwise, no thanx. I want my creature comforts. Besides the AC can be turned off if you are racing without much of a loss.
Only reason I have underdrive pulleys is that it was either take it or an ex-friend would not be able to pay what he owes. Used only the crank pulley and sold the alternator and water pump
I can't remember if we tried it but I don't think the AC can be bypassed. I might be wrong. You'd have to put a pulley there at the least I think. At least that was how it looked to us when my AC compressor seized
when you add the crank pulley it underdrives everything, if you did not add the new smaller water pump and alt pulleys you underdrove them as well as the point of those pullies is to keep them operating at normal RPM...
when you add the crank pulley it underdrives everything, if you did not add the new smaller water pump and alt pulleys you underdrove them as well as the point of those pullies is to keep them operating at normal RPM...
Whoops. I hope you are wrong. The company's tech support told me the exact OPPOSITE and that crank pulley is now sitting in my friend's car. Didn't want to transfer it from my 91 Firebird when it got run into and when my buddy asked about it, I told him to help himself since he was helping me remove the engine and stick it into the Vette.
Are you ABSOLUTELY sure about that? That bites. I told him what tech support told me and he is running it. I only had the car for less than 2 weeks after the new engine was in it and I had it dyno tuned before some dingbat ran into me and the car was totaled. Please confirm that it would be true for all the pulley sets regardless of brand
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The concept is pretty simple....
Smaller CRANK pulley slows everything else down.
Larger accessory pulleys speed them up. Has to be the same for all kits -- and would include slowing of the WP/ALT unless larger pulleys were installed on those parts. OTOH, what if you've got a 30% HP waterpump? Then, you'd be OK.
Operating temps would be the bottom line, don't you think?
I have the March 3 piece kit, I have a 91 with speed density system. I haven't had any issues with overheating, even with autoxing. I do keep my cooling system clean, run 180degree thermo, and have my water/coolant mixture at 70/30 vs 50/50. I do for winter, get the mixture back to 50/50 or at least a higher concentration of the antifreeze, but I don't drive the car in the winter either. Several years ago I did drive the car at night, so there was more electric draw, but only noticed any difference sitting at traffic lights. I definantely would suggest the under dirve pulleys. They are an upgrade you can get additional performance with accross the entire rpm range.
Last edited by l98tpi; May 15, 2011 at 07:30 AM.
Reason: spelling
The replacement water pump and alt pulley are smaller. This speeds them up to compensate for the smaller crank pully slowing them down. Think about bycicle gears guys same concept.
If you have the new smaller crank but didn't replace the water pump and alt puleys with the new ones you are now under driving them as well. If you installed the water pump and alt pulleys without the crank puley you are now overdriving those 2
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by RedBowTies88
The replacement water pump and alt pulley are smaller. This speeds them up to compensate for the smaller crank pully slowing them down. Think about bycicle gears guys same concept.
If you have the new smaller crank but didn't replace the water pump and alt puleys with the new ones you are now under driving them as well. If you installed the water pump and alt pulleys without the crank puley you are now overdriving those 2
yep, the concept is SO simple, I didn't even think about it long enough and mis-stated the obvious.
gotcha, probably would be better to just go with the miniram then since the cost of having the hood repainted would be more then the price difference..
Heres how i did to make the hsr clear the stock hood
Got any question how i did it please ask