hooker headers leaking
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 419
Likes: 1
From: Kelso WA
They make locking header bolts. They are rather expensive compared to regular bolts, but work well. I forget the various brand names, but do a search for "locking header bolts" and you should be able to find a few brands. The only other alternative is thread locker, which probably isn't a good idea. I had a set on my '69 Camaro and never had any problems after changing.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
if you havent....yet....you need to run a brace from each header to something solid, like a bellhousing bolt, on each side of the engine. it will keep the vibration from shaking them loose. ...no school, like old school
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 419
Likes: 1
From: Kelso WA
If I were you, I'd just keep tightening them until you can afford the locking ones. Unfortunately, not all of the bolts are prone to backing out, but they only sell the locking bolts in a complete set. It would be nice if you could just buy what you need.
Last edited by bsmutz; May 10, 2011 at 06:58 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,181
Likes: 286
From: Puyallup Washington
I had problems with the headers leaking on my 1974 Pantera. I got smarter and bought some gaskets from a racing shop that were very thick and meant to do a 50% crush. I also used the locking header bolts. I tightened them down as much as I could get them, ran the car, tightened them again, then did it a couple more times. I then installed the locks on the bolts and have had no problems.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
They make locking header bolts. They are rather expensive compared to regular bolts, but work well. I forget the various brand names, but do a search for "locking header bolts" and you should be able to find a few brands. The only other alternative is thread locker, which probably isn't a good idea. I had a set on my '69 Camaro and never had any problems after changing.
also available in stainless and various lengths for a few more bucks. You tighten these up like regular bolts then crank the inner threaded stud portion which spreads the ends of the header bolt(s) inside the head "locking" everthing in place.http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-20003/?rtype=10
I would also recommend that you check to see if your exhaust mounts are all still intact. An exhaust system that is not properly supported will work/shake most header mounting hardware loose.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 562
Likes: 0
From: Smyrna ga
also available in stainless and various lengths for a few more bucks. You tighten these up like regular bolts then crank the inner threaded stud portion which spreads the ends of the header bolt(s) inside the head "locking" everthing in place.http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-20003/?rtype=10
I would also recommend that you check to see if your exhaust mounts are all still intact. An exhaust system that is not properly supported will work/shake most header mounting hardware loose.
Im wondering if scraping the bottom exhaust on speedbumps etc would make the headerbolts loose..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
yep - once tight just back out the inner stud a turn or 2 then spin the whole bolts out like normal. These grab pretty well on partially "stripped out" threaded holes as well.If your hitting the exhaust on stuff when your driving then that may be a problem....once you get the headers secure and if you continue to hit "stuff" you may bend or break something else.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,062
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Dont crank down those header bolts just snug them up then once warm check them, if slightly loose slightly snug it up. Typically just use antizeize on the threads.
Some like the copper header gaskets, never tried them myself hear they are good stuff. Usually just use FelPro or have even used stock manifold gaskets and worked fine.
Some like the copper header gaskets, never tried them myself hear they are good stuff. Usually just use FelPro or have even used stock manifold gaskets and worked fine.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 1
From: Dallas Texas
I had good luck going from 3/4" to 1" bolts. I was hoping the extra threads would help keep their torque and apparently they did. I also had the best luck with the Felpro 1406. Copper and Percy's soft aluminum both leaked for me.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,894
Likes: 3
From: Reading PA.
There's a place in Gettysburg,Pa. called Totally Stainless that has great locking Header bolts. The underside of the bolt head is serrated and there is a small flat serrated washer under it. They work great. I just snugged them a little after warm up and used some Anti seize on em. www.totallystainless.com Pipe
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
not to flog a dead horse, and , dont know bout nowdays but hooker's used to be famous for thin flanges ,only thing worse was heddmans, used to havta run a brace from a collector bolt to anyplace close on the eng/trans so that they would move with the engine and wouldnt rock back and forth and come loose. over time it warps the flanges and you get flange leaks. used to weld another flange on each side to stiffen them up, the other option is to buy good headers, with nice thick flanges, the time you spend fixin you couldve been drivin
