C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Sudden VATS Trouble ????

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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 09:04 PM
  #161  
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When I broke my original 1987 C4 700R4 & my replacement 1988 C4 700R4 both within 1 year time span..............

The C4 Dana 44 next to my workbench at home did me "0" good at the time.

Instead of installing the Dana 44 & going no where with 2 broken transmissions...

I rebuilt & blueprinted my original 1987 700R4 & left the factory Dana 36 in.

Believed I made the logical choice at the time & still do.

BR
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 01:07 AM
  #162  
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Sammy,

Its kinda Ficken Insane.....................

Dana 44 I have & You Buy it before You Fix your 700R4 trans.

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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 02:43 AM
  #163  
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BR Check your PM's
Let's do a new thread for the D44
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 09:10 PM
  #164  
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Sammy,

I read your PM.

Its still Insane.



Fix your 700R4 1st.

The Dana 44 is going nowhere I assure You.
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 09:37 PM
  #165  
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i want to fix it when the D44 is coming home ...that will give me enough time to keep me in "wrench mode"
sadly i won't be able to make this later :/

Last edited by Calderone; Sep 1, 2011 at 10:34 PM.
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #166  
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Ordinarily I can build any rear differential to perfection in 6 - 8 hours with all parts cleaned, organized, & ready for installation.

For You Sammy,
I will go the extra mile.

I will re- clean the dana 44 housing & batwing & having it shining like New.

No silver spay paint.

All dana 44's & dana 36's are supposed to shine like polished aluminum from vintage photos I seen in my magazine collection.
Time & weathering dulled the factory new shine away.
I have some aluminum cleaning tricks & keep secret to myself.
No harsh chemicals involved.

The stub axles & driveshaft companion flange I will glassbead clean to like new finish.

The dana 44 differential case & will give to my machinist buddy & have him take a very light cut off the ring gear flange.
He will hold a tolerance of + & - .00001" or 1 one hundred thousanths of an inch for for me.

One of the few people in the world that can hold that tolerance for me without setting up a CNC machine.
He is that good with a lathe , verticle mill, or hornizontal boring machine.

That will ensure a perfect ring & pinion gear mesh & a superb gear tooth contact pattern during testing by me.

It will take me about 1 week start to finish to complete.

Document build here on C4.

OK Sammy.

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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 10:50 PM
  #167  
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:58 AM
  #168  
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Did you figure out the starting issue?
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 01:54 PM
  #169  
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Hi Funz...just came back....guys, i taped the key resistance real good,tried to start it ...
pushed the relay tab ...and it started with the pellet covered in tape
so ..what does that means ????
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 03:21 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by Calderone
Hi Funz...just came back....guys, i taped the key resistance real good,tried to start it ...
pushed the relay tab ...and it started with the pellet covered in tape
so ..what does that means ????
Do you have a custom chip with VATS turned off ?
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 05:29 PM
  #171  
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This may mean you have two problems:
  1. Your orignial starting problem actually is VATS (maybe Brian's broken wires).
  2. Your VATS module is shutting down the start enable relay (good) but isn't shutting off the injectors (bad).

I forget...have you tried using a resistor in the connector under the dash to bypass the pellet read? The taped pellet shows the system isn't responding correctly to a known VATS violation. Using a resistor might show how it responds when you know the resistance is correct.

Has code 46 ever showed up?

A simpler explanation may be a faulty VATS module, period, ignoring the resistor, disabling the start enable relay and enabling the injectors just cause it's bad.
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 09:56 PM
  #172  
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i dont want to replace that damn module ...secret kill switch maybe
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 06:16 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by Calderone
i dont want to replace that damn module ...secret kill switch maybe
If You have car thieves running around & eyeballing up your clean 1987 Corvette Coupe Sammy,

You are going to want to fix your factory Pass Key 1 security system.

No one knows anything about them anymore outside of C4 tech.

When I worked in Chicago still,
my 87 was parked 20 feet away from me.
Still the crazy homeless and hip hops would always hang out by my car when I was not looking.

During lunchtime,
sometimes I would go out I purposely trip the alarm.

Those eyeballs got big on each,
they would wander off fast too.

They tried breaking into the shop every single night.

We blocked all doors with 1" inch thick rebar steel rods,

still they would push & bend the rods loose sometimes.

Our tool boxes were locked in a separate room with 4" thick steel doors.
Then park an old beater SUV in front of the that door.

Crazy chit.

They paid me $$$ real good though.

BR
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 08:29 AM
  #174  
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may i replace everything related then, it's worth it
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by Calderone
may i replace everything related then, it's worth it
I vote kill switch!
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 10:32 AM
  #176  
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I have also bypassed the VATS modular on my '89. I think it took about twenty minutes. Purchased a small circuit board with a couple of wires. You can find the thread in this forum.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 12:58 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by Calderone
i dont want to replace that damn module ...secret kill switch maybe
I wouldn't want to either. There are several tests on page 8a-133-10 through 8a-133-12 of the electrical supplement you might consider to verify the problem is the module, but it's kinda looking like you need to replace it. (I assume you've checked the VATS fuse?)
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 03:09 PM
  #178  
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on the auxiliary fuse panel ? all the fuses are ok
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:29 PM
  #179  
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Main fuse block on right (passenger) side of instrument pannel. I figured you'd already checked it, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #180  
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wayne i checked all of the plastic fuses...which one is the vats ??? i dont recall one unless its one of those bigger metallic ones which i didnt check
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