TRACKMAN2

anyone up to assembeling a motor for me on a pro bono basis...im shure if you can build one a cant desrtoy in 2 days you will certanly go down in motor building history...not to mention get ur name all over my race car!!!!

87 vette 81 big girl

What is the Catch 20 ?

Always a 2nd story to any deal that is ready to go down.

I refuse with Wet sump Oil pan.

Dry Sump only.
You are high speed road racing.

I will take on the challenge then.

My full name has been on race cars in the past.
OK, but no biggie after a while.

Means everything when the guy wins races weekend after weekend & collects $$.

Pit mechanic.
& Head Mechanic.

I don't like things, I walk away.

Most don't want to pay $$.

You paying a person money or have to work for free ?

Free OK for a while.
But gets old also.

Brian R.

Pete K

From Wikipedia:

Pro bono publico (English: for the public good; usually shortened to pro bono) is a Latin phrase generally used to describe professional work undertaken voluntarily and without payment or at a reduced fee as a public service. It is common in the legal profession and is increasingly seen in marketing, technology, and strategy consulting firms. Pro bono service, unlike traditional volunteerism, uses the specific skills of professionals to provide services to those who are unable to afford them.

I don't think they will line up to donate engines, but lest see how it turns out.

383vett

Trackman goes through motors quicker than some guys change underwear. He could probably blow up a tank motor.

Churchkey

Pass.

pologreen1

A builder starved for attention or trying to gain popularity might do it IMO, but also it's 2011 and there is a good chance most people will say WTF??? and walk away from this deal.

This is an interesting concept considering Internet forums these days and how people work together.

Try a crate motor maybe you'll get lucky and get a couple of seasons out of it.

I have met many guys at race tracks in all kinds of racing that can get years out of their engines and still be very competitive.

I think it's been your builder's fault unless you are really pushing those things way further than you are supposed to.

You can get short blocks on CL for like 100-200.

TRACKMAN2

TRACKMAN2

ill get a block my buddy has an extra one....2 bolt main i get it fluxed and drilled for a 4bolt main.... the rotating assembly is still good scat pre ballanced..good heads and cam....just assemble i get bearings,and gaskets...

cv67

Maybe year one would be interested. Or Autozone

87 vette 81 big girl

You have to be about Half NUTS by now.

#8 engine.



If you are on a budget,

Leave it 2- bolt main.

Very few people in the USA or anywhere in the world can correctly fit stock or aftermarket straight 4- bolt or splayed 4- bolt main caps.

Calibrated dial bore gauge tells all with all 5 main caps torqued down to factory specs or ARP fastener specs with their supplied Moly lube.

Center of mains to center of cam bearing bore should deviate less than -.005" from factory setting.

Main bearing bore can not deviate more than +.0001" from minimum Cleavite Bearing Master Catalog listed specification.

Checked at 6 & 12 O' clock & 15 degree axis either direction from there also.

All Main bearing bores must be parallel to each.
From #1 front main to #5.
.0005" or less desired.

If not,
You don not have a good engine foundation to build off for racing or high performance use.

87 vette 81 big girl

Sonic Testing any stock block for core shift is a must for racing use.

Endurance racing especially.
Road Race.

Aftermarket blocks should be Sonic Tested checked too.

My Bud Steve has a Sonic Tester.
Easy to use.

Every performance engine build,
The block gets hot tanked,
hand washed,
Magnufluxed,
& Sonic Tested.

No Exceptions.

PLRX

wow and those operate with sand in the air/fuel mix

500 gal tank good for 225 miles of flat land

Pro Bono is no charge but, you can claim it as a tax deduction.

Money will always talk!

engle1147

You provide all the machined parts and shipping both ways then I'll put one together for you but you can't take it over 2,000 RPMS....EVER
- my warranty is 30 seconds or 30 feet which ever comes first - rust protection is not included

Racing is really hard on parts and it is expensive as a result......even if you keep within the designed limitations of the components they will have an early death (usually its ugly). At this point I recommend ordering a professionally built short block to suit then slap on the remaining stuff yourself. Keep the RPM within reason and it should live a minimum of 2 days.

Caboboy

I'm starting to question the 'shrooms in last nite's spaghetti.

PLRX

1963SS

Maybe he's referring to the old saying that racers will help other racers. Back in my racing days we'd all get together non-race weekends and work on each others cars for beer and pizza. Friends off the track and competitors on the track. I like to think that's the way it should be because it saves everyone money......except that we did drink a lot of beer in the day.

TRACKMAN2

absolutly not if you havent read my motor madness thing if you make it clear what you are doing (road racing) and your requirements (400 reliable horse power) and rpm range (6500) not unreasonable...no one can build it for u not in pa anyhow....youll pay 10,000 for a motor no warenty and it will come apart in 3 days and youll get the reply thats racing ive got it 6 times!!!!!!!!

TRACKMAN2

today is the last day of my 5 day so called vacation back to work tomarrow triming a 10,000 sqft house for one of those marsalus shale big shots!!!!

TRACKMAN2

exactly we couldnt do any worse than every body else SH** faced drunk!!!!!

TRACKMAN2

i could also trade time and material a nice book case or custom desk!!! but heres the catch my work has a life time warrenty .. thats how i treat people!!!