Those using 3/4" wheel spacers step inside
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Team Owner
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Those using 3/4" wheel spacers step inside
It would be very helpful to hear of your experiences/failures and what manufacture has produced the best product. Good, bad or otherwise.
I picked up a set of 3/4" (billet) adapters from a CF member about a year ago. (Mfgr unknown err forgotten)
Although they have accumulated a few thousand miles, I remove and inspect them at the annual maintenance interval.
So far, no signs of flexing or cracking. And torque on both the adapter and wheel nuts have not changed.
Wheel spacers
Wheel adapters
Die cast cheapos that have a high rate of failure
I picked up a set of 3/4" (billet) adapters from a CF member about a year ago. (Mfgr unknown err forgotten)
Although they have accumulated a few thousand miles, I remove and inspect them at the annual maintenance interval.
So far, no signs of flexing or cracking. And torque on both the adapter and wheel nuts have not changed.
Wheel spacers
Wheel adapters
Die cast cheapos that have a high rate of failure
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,179
Likes: 673
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Cavi, the adapters simply bolt on your original studs using their nuts with conical washers.
Oldalaskaman made a good point that being hub-centric/wheel centric. The pictured adapter has a flange that centers the adapter on the spindle and then to the backside of the wheel hub center. Keeps the adapter and wheel concentric.
Oldalaskaman made a good point that being hub-centric/wheel centric. The pictured adapter has a flange that centers the adapter on the spindle and then to the backside of the wheel hub center. Keeps the adapter and wheel concentric.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2011
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,270
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From: Seattle Area WA
Mine look good as well, (though 1"), I recently went to long ARP studs and knocked out the adapter studs in the adapters (ARP said this was better, we'll see.)
That is a shocking failure, looks like they were exposed to a ton of heat (blow torch and hammer...?). I'm not sure I follow on the "these numbers = made in china." Any clarification there?
That said, of course billet is the way to go.
That is a shocking failure, looks like they were exposed to a ton of heat (blow torch and hammer...?). I'm not sure I follow on the "these numbers = made in china." Any clarification there?
That said, of course billet is the way to go.
Slingshot
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,817
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From: Charlotte NC
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
The additional 3/4" flushes the front and matches the rear.
Clearances are tight, so the 1" moved the tire into constant contact with the wheel well edge.
Clearances are tight, so the 1" moved the tire into constant contact with the wheel well edge.
Last edited by JrRifleCoach; Feb 8, 2012 at 02:11 AM.
Team Owner
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Mine are 16mm "pass-through" so maybe I don't belong here!
3/4 = 19.05 mm BUT ANYWAY!
Mine were done 9+ years ago to my specifications by a "professional" tradesman. Mine are hub and lug centric. My spacer is a better fit to my hub than an OE wheel and the hub aspect of the spacer is a better fit to my wheel than an OE wheel to an original hub. Mine are used to accommodate a 50 mm offset GS 11" wheel on the rear of my ZR-1. I did them + 2 mm and wish I had done 18 mm. I use an extended length wheel stud from GM.
The first "spacer" example pictured is something that is used generally to accomplish caliper clearances and in dimensions 6 mm or less. "Generally"!!!
The second example "adapter" is often thought as the preferred BUT if the center bore isn't a match to the hub and the adapter isn't a match to the center-bore of the wheel your using - you've accomplished what?
A spacer/adapter should be tailored to each wheel/tire/car combination! There isn't a "FIT-ALL"!
I found these people some time ago and if you go to their website you can educate yourself to a certain degree. Use the links on the left and build yourself some spacers and adapters. While you're there pay attention to center-bore and "learn"!
Pay attention to the details - you'll see that an adapter starts at 19 mm (3/4") and can be done in 1 mm increments so that you can accomplish a "tailored fit". If you're going to spend the money you might as well "get fit"!!
here's a spacer link: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/4DCGI/wheel_spacers
here's an adapter link: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/4DCGI/wheel_adapters
I paid substantially more for mine and if I were to need others I'd go right back where mine were done but these people seem to have a program!
3/4 = 19.05 mm BUT ANYWAY!
Mine were done 9+ years ago to my specifications by a "professional" tradesman. Mine are hub and lug centric. My spacer is a better fit to my hub than an OE wheel and the hub aspect of the spacer is a better fit to my wheel than an OE wheel to an original hub. Mine are used to accommodate a 50 mm offset GS 11" wheel on the rear of my ZR-1. I did them + 2 mm and wish I had done 18 mm. I use an extended length wheel stud from GM.
The first "spacer" example pictured is something that is used generally to accomplish caliper clearances and in dimensions 6 mm or less. "Generally"!!!
The second example "adapter" is often thought as the preferred BUT if the center bore isn't a match to the hub and the adapter isn't a match to the center-bore of the wheel your using - you've accomplished what?
A spacer/adapter should be tailored to each wheel/tire/car combination! There isn't a "FIT-ALL"!
I found these people some time ago and if you go to their website you can educate yourself to a certain degree. Use the links on the left and build yourself some spacers and adapters. While you're there pay attention to center-bore and "learn"!
Pay attention to the details - you'll see that an adapter starts at 19 mm (3/4") and can be done in 1 mm increments so that you can accomplish a "tailored fit". If you're going to spend the money you might as well "get fit"!!
here's a spacer link: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/4DCGI/wheel_spacers
here's an adapter link: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/4DCGI/wheel_adapters
I paid substantially more for mine and if I were to need others I'd go right back where mine were done but these people seem to have a program!
Team Owner
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Mine look good as well, (though 1"), I recently went to long ARP studs and knocked out the adapter studs in the adapters (ARP said this was better, we'll see.)
That is a shocking failure, looks like they were exposed to a ton of heat (blow torch and hammer...?). I'm not sure I follow on the "these numbers = made in china." Any clarification there?
That said, of course billet is the way to go.
That is a shocking failure, looks like they were exposed to a ton of heat (blow torch and hammer...?). I'm not sure I follow on the "these numbers = made in china." Any clarification there?
That said, of course billet is the way to go.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,270
Likes: 3
From: Seattle Area WA
Interesting though that the place you linked puts a cap on spacers at 30mm. So the idea of a 1" spacer with, I assume, high strength (ARP) lugs is not a problem for them.
Last edited by USAsOnlyWay; Feb 7, 2012 at 10:04 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
The pics are from wheeladapter.com.
My take on the busted die cast pic is, it failed catastrophically from fatigue. Most likely someone used the wrong nuts (or no washers) to secure the adapter which cracked the adapter at each fixation point. Note the very thin web area in those areas. The "burnt" area is not from heat. It is blackened aluminum dust where the spacer rubbed against the iron brake rotor/drum and rust after the adapter started to move.
My take on the busted die cast pic is, it failed catastrophically from fatigue. Most likely someone used the wrong nuts (or no washers) to secure the adapter which cracked the adapter at each fixation point. Note the very thin web area in those areas. The "burnt" area is not from heat. It is blackened aluminum dust where the spacer rubbed against the iron brake rotor/drum and rust after the adapter started to move.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: The Motor City
If anyone needs spacers and or adapters look at this company....billet, including hub centric and wheel centric any size/width etc.. I needed some 3/16" spacers for my 15" fronts, this company makes a great product.
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From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Race Director
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,270
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From: Seattle Area WA
The pics are from wheeladapter.com.
My take on the busted die cast pic is, it failed catastrophically from fatigue. Most likely someone used the wrong nuts (or no washers) to secure the adapter which cracked the adapter at each fixation point. Note the very thin web area in those areas. The "burnt" area is not from heat. It is blackened aluminum dust where the spacer rubbed against the iron brake rotor/drum and rust after the adapter started to move.
My take on the busted die cast pic is, it failed catastrophically from fatigue. Most likely someone used the wrong nuts (or no washers) to secure the adapter which cracked the adapter at each fixation point. Note the very thin web area in those areas. The "burnt" area is not from heat. It is blackened aluminum dust where the spacer rubbed against the iron brake rotor/drum and rust after the adapter started to move.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City