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intake on, new vacuum lines, and after it got to about 180 deg, started up again. Man its driving me crazy. injectors maybe? saw a set on fleabay cheap rebuilt bosch 3s, any ideas? you guys have plenty of knowledge here im sure u guys can help me find issue.
My 89 would hunt from about 500 RPM to 700 RPM after it was warm. I clamped the two air hoses going to the exhaust manifolds and the problem stopped. I purchased a kit to remove the A.I.R. pump and plugged off the threaded ports on the exhaust manifolds and the engine idles very smooth now. I run this car hard during One Lap of America and was told that if the A.I.R. pump would fail I would have a hard time finding one so taking it off was a good move for two reasons. Just my .o2 worth. JD
quick update, still doin same thing code 33 has been fixed and went back to a 44. checked FP and its at a constant 45 with key on. 35 when car is idling normal and 40 when rpms shoot up. what could this be bad injectors not spraying fuel causing FP to jump from 35 to 40?? anybody get those bidding site injectors? at this point any ideas would help
new ecm is in, so i wish that would have been problem but nothing.
I still believe your problem lies with the ECM. I know you changed it, but are you SURE the new one isn't bad? They can be found fairly easily, and not to hard on the wallet. Might be worth a try to change it out with a new/rebuilt or good used unit.
tps set, iac read ir needs to be 1 1/8" or so out, is that correct? also FP went down to 20 after an hour or so are they suppose to do that? ECM is new and i thought it wouldnt throw a code if it was bad.
bad weather and work so haven't been able to mess with the cat but i found these wires that have been cut. can anyone pleas tell me where they go and to what, any help would be appreciated.
those appear to be the leads for the diverter valve, air switching valve and possibly the egr valve. if you dont have the chip that sends the correct values to the ecm it is not going to run right. check and make sure the coolant temp sender is connected and working properly. just my two cents worth. last week i had removed all the above components and air pump, plugged the air tubes. i had gotten a chip from tpis prior to that so i didnt have to mess with the codes or ses light. all seems to be working fine. also make sure u dont have a vacume leak on the intake itself.
Jim
on the drivers side? all those mentioned above are connected but i will definitely look at those wires. anybody w/ a l98 that can check those wires on drivers side would be awesome. let me know and thanks
after cking page 20-6 in the elect supp the blk/pnk is an injector wire and the black ones are the other side of the injector. ck and see if someone wired the injectors in series.
thank you woody!! haha sounds funny but man your right, PO or PPO spliced into pass side injectors and ran wires to drivers side. i feel this is my problem!! Finally something that looks like its the issue and just is time for the weekend! i knew i could count on the forum members for help. i will keep u guys posted as soon as i paste wires back together
well ran the wires for the injectors since they were cut, worked great for the last 2 days been driving a few miles at a time, today got home from work and thought imma turn this guy on, and bam it started again. im ready to start pullin my hairs out, anyone else have ideas?
Obviously there was a reason why the guy ran them off the other side. do u have a fsm with the elect supplement. if not u need to get one. that is the only way u are going to be able to figure this out. have u disconnected the ground on the back of the block. u need to clean it and reconnect it.there are 4 or 5 different things grounded there. seems there is probably a streched wire in the injector harness where it goes back to the ecm. gey a good multimeter and a few feet of wire and start cking the fuel system .
i dont have an fsm, i am looking for one though. where are the grounds located? how would i check fuel system w/ multimeter? also do u beleive it can be something clogging the lines or injectors being bad? last two days it didnt have ses light but as soon as it idles off i get the 44
When i said ck the fuel system i meant the elect side of it not pressure. earlier in this thread slmeone said to ck the ecm. when u changed the ecm was there a chip attached to the prom? po might have something else disconcted the the old ecm was calibrated for.
Dude, guessing and throwing parts at it is going to get expensive! google corvette factory service manual and order one. 100 bucks or so. wait for it to come in the mail. and troubleshoot it right. sucks to have to look at the car in the driveway not working. but u will save yourself alot of agrivation.