Ok here is the problem my new 383 runs like crap. This is what I have and any suggestions let me know.


http://whiteperformance.com/SBC383Stroker.htm

Howard cam part number 110265-10
26 lbs fuel injectors
Eldebrock intake and high flow runners
58 mm bbk throttle body
Ported plenum
Fuel pressure set at 44 psi
Timing set at 6 degrees
Tps set at .60 millivolts

 

Thats all the information we need, give me an hour and I will have a full diagnostic and a solution for you.

 

With the parts that you listed...there is one important thing missing.....a new chip burned to match your engine. If you are trying to run this engine with the old chip based on the old engine...it will run like S**T.

As soon as you changed the cam from the stock set up it required a new chip. Add the other changes with this engine and you are in a deep hole.

 

Sorry fogot to mention, I got Scott Hansen to do the computer

 

Describe "Runs Like Crap" a little better.

Does it skip/miss, flood out, not idle, not accelerate or what?
Will

 

233 /241 LSA 110
That would be a major problem right there
Cam is too big for your TPI intake and better suited to a carb

"Rough idle Hot Street and bracket racing.
10.0:1+ compression ratio advised. 2,800+ stall".
Cams with " rough idle " and EFI are not mentioned in the same sentence
Are going to want a very good tuner to tune that 110 LSA ( recommended 112 or higher for EFI engines )


What is your CR?
What port size are the Procomp heads?
What stall ?
What diff ratio?

 

It doesn't run much better than stock

 

That provides absolutely -0- information. You need to describe, IN GREAT DETAIL, what it's doing to make it run "like crap".

Oh and PLRX, I laughed out loud there.

 

Pro comp pc4102
Factory
308

What is cr

 

Compression ratio.

 

10 to 1

 

I do have a accperformance boss hog part number 48441 stall to put in and hope it helps.

 

I can't find that cyl head PN but Pro Comp makes like a 190cc and a 210cc.... Reading the engine specs with 2.02 valves it looks like the 190's are probably what you have.

With that cam and heads you need at least a 3000RPM stall, 3.54 gears and a single plane intake manifold conversion to take advantage of the engines new power band which I would think is in 3000RPM-6000RPM range.

As is, your loading the crap out of the engine at low RPM with stock 3.07 gears and stock tq converter (before it makes any TQ) and then the engine is running out of air at 4000-4500RPM because of the TPI intake.

The cheapest route would be to just change the cam. A smaller camshaft like the LPE219 or Howards 110235-12 would go along way to making power in the TPI's idle to 4500RPM range....
Will

 

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Here is some more info that I hope helps.
Does any one know a good programer.

 

Any ses codes??? Did you capture any data logs? Use a scanner??? Vacuum leaks.. your base timing would be a minimum of 8 on a TPI system... if all is good... this tune. You had done is way off. Was it mail order. Or a live session.. if you were closer.. I know I could get you running. If everything is in order
Is that stock manifolds and stock filter.. on a 383 air monster. the poor engine can't breath
Ps as above swap cams. Or sell that TPI.. get a MR. SR, HSR.. the engine NEEDS one of these intakes for full potential

 

I personally do NOT think that cam will run worth a crap on an HSR intake... the lobe centers are too short and it has too much intake duration (seat timing).... Pay no attention to the @.050 numbers... they are very misleading on this camshaft.

It has 70* of overlap (advertised). The intake valve opens at 37*BTDC and closes at 69*ABDC.... IMO the reversion is going to cause kinds of tuning and low speed drive ability problems with an intake that has a huge plenum like the HSR or MR or SR.

Might make decent power at WOT but is going to suck to drive around at part throttle.

Clearly those valve timing events are for a carburated engine. The advertised duration and lobe centers are very close/same as the camshaft in my 92 (which has a single plane intake conversion)...

If your going to cam an engine like its carb'd then use a carb intake.

If your gonna use a TPI intake then cam it for the TPI.

Also - Those factory exhaust manifolds have got to go.

What does the rest of the exhaust look like.... FYI the factory Y-Pipe system flat sucks at the kind of HP that engine could make.
Will

 

What kind of headers do you have. part number please

 

I currently have Exotic Muscle long tube headers P/N C11800.

http://emracingcorp.com/scripts/prod...p?idproduct=67

Will

 

It is most likely the cam. When I built mine I was told not to go above a 452/.470 lift and I listened. Its not too much for the engine and it runs really pretty well. This is because mine is also a tpi, and I did not wanna mess with a stall converter as well. Yours sounds like everything else is matched great. Just the cam concerns me

 

You could also swap the tpi and go carb if ya wanted. But your tpi intake, runners, tb, all are very nice and would run great with a matched cam. Obviously the chip or computer would have to be re flashed as well.