hey guys still having trouble with rough idle ive changed every sensor plugs wires it has to run for a little while get really warmed up than runs great i have no idea what more i can do its driving me crazy

 

I assume no Check Engine Light on?
At what temperature does it seem to idle better? You might observe this with the digital readout on the dash.

Any black smoke out the tail pipes?
What known work has been done to the car?

Any other info that might be helpful, as your post is extremely vague.

 

Year? Engine?

Since we're working in a data free environment, I'll guess that it's probably your injectors. Ohm check them hot and cold. Bet one or more are bad.

 

ok now i changed both o2 sensors now still idles bad and surge till it almosts dies and when it get all warmed up and it has to get really warm but than it idles like 1200 rpm in park its a 92 base model ...thank you guys for helping the new guy

 

How warm is warm, digital readout on dash will give exact numbers. Consult your owners manual if you are not familiar with this feature of the Instrument Cluster.

Sounds like it runs poor cold/cool 02's have NOTHING to do with engine operation until it enters closed loop operation. 02's give feedback to ECM so it can properly calculate fuel trim for the engine.

1200RPM in park is too high. Do you have a vacuum leak?
IS the Check Engine Light on at all?

I second Ohm checking the injectors should be around 12 Ohms or so.
You will need a Digital Volts Ohms Meter or DVOM for short. $5 at Harbor Freight.

 

no engine light didnt find no vac leak im kinda thinking fuel injectors do u think that could happen with injectors

 

Nah. We suggested checking them just to make work for the hell of it.

 

A plugged PVC valve or hose will cause those problems. A leaking valve or hose will cause rough idle,stalling and high idle speed.

Remove you PVC valve from the intake manifold and run engine at idle. Place your thumb over the end of the valve. Check for vacumn , if there is no vacumn at the valve check for plugged valve or vacumn line.

Mac

 

93Rubie asked because it is important. you did not answer.

not preaching, but many posters focus on whatever is in their mind and ignore the questions, which are necessary to gain a little insight.
otherwise, we are shooting arrows at a moving target over a high fence in the dark.

you say it "runs great" warmed up. that's when the main sensors are o2 sensors, map, maf, iat. at startup, I think ecm uses coolant temp sensor, which, if it fails to send correct temp, results in lean or rich A/F mix.

as for PCV, the point is that it runs fine warm.

joe

** I forgot that it is a 92, but I believe CTS info is accurate. my experience is with L98.

 

No MAF on a '92.

At startup and during Open Loop operation, the ECM primarily uses the CTS and MAP sensor to reference specific fuel map and timing values.

"shooting arrows at a moving target over a high fence in the dark"

That's good!

 

ok guys now really messed up went out ran about 120 mph for about a mile ran great slowed back down and crusied when i came to a stop very rough idle and now running on like 5 or 6 cylinders thrwing coads 22 23 and 45 but i unpluged a vac hose and and made light come on but now only runs on a few cylinders any ideas
and thanks guys for helping me out

 

Huh? Translate please. Sorry, but clearly communicating goes a looooooooooooooog way towards getting accurate/actionable recommendations. As you may have noticed, if you can't take the time to communicate clearly, many knowledgeable people won't take the time to help.

You pulled a vacuum line and then went out and drove it? or You went for a drive and then pulled a vacuum line? Which line did you unplug? Why did you unplug it?

Are you sure you're pulling ECM codes and not CCM codes?

Have you used the Factory Service Manual to troubleshoot the codes? What were your findings?

22 is the TPS, low voltage
23 is the IAT temp low
45 is the left o2 sensor reading rich

Did you ensure the plug wires are routed correctly and not crossed, especially on the Opti end of the wires? "Assuming" doesn't work...you need to physically check them.

You said you changed "every sensor". Define "every". I find it hard to believe you replaced them all.

Did you check the injectors as has been suggested twice? What were the ohm readings hot? cold?

Did you check fuel pressure? What is it?

Did you check the fuel pressure regulator? What did you find?

Have you verified EGR valve operation? How did you verify it?

 

Make sure you have the connector on the temperature sensor connected that is in the water pump. (As said, check the digital temp).

Other than all this good advice, off the cuff I would look at the injectors and see if the EGR moves freely and is not stuck.

 

Reposted for truth.

OP: You need to read back thru this thread and answer the questions asked. More info to us, helps us, help you. Without that info, we are shooting arrows...

Guessing and randomly doing whatever will not work either.

Diagnosis requires a logical and systematic approach to a problem. Thinking it thru and using available resources is the BEST approach...that or just throw money at it like 95% of the public does with car problems. Be the 5%!!! It'll WILL save you money and you'll learn modern car mechanics better than many of the "professional" mechanics.