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Well, the flat bed is finally on it's way. I'm betting on the opti, but having it checked out professionally to be sure (not that I have time to work on it anyway). If so, I'm having him price out what I'll take to rewire my harness to adapt the EFI Connections LS1 computer swap! I have no plans on getting rid of this vette, and I NEVER want to deal with the opti ever again (this will be the third replacement, car only has 121,000 miles).
on my 95, I washed the motor when I first bought it the car because it was filthy and I knew I would be working on it in the near future for mods. well I got water in the opti of course and had this exact same intermittent issue. I would get stranded places after driving it but when it ran it ran absolutely perfect and strong. well finally after getting stranded about 150miles from my house after thinking I had fixed it I pulled the trigger on my cam and heads project. I replaced the optispark during this time because when I removed the old one, it was FULL of water,, drained for at least 20 seconds when I got it off the car.. I could not believe it was running at all. well, long story short.. new optispark all symptoms fixed and from then on I used towels to keep the engine clean with some Windex..lol
Good luck with it, hopefully its not that $500 MSD unit, spendy to replace!
Yep. MSD. I don't wash my motor, but I certainly drive in the rain so you never know. Being a vented opti, they aren't suppose to do that. I've got my mechanic looking into what i'll cost to convert to an LS1 computer and coil packs via EFI Connection (have to rewire the harness since you can't completely ditch the LT-1 computer). I'm kinda hoping it's the opti so I can finally say bye-bye to it forever! Not ready to spend an arm and a leg on it though.
Par for the course, the car is running perfectly for the Mechanic. Let it idle for over two hours, then drove around the block a few times...not a hint of an issue! $10 says it dies on the way home. Going to have him keep it till at least the end of the week and have him try one more time before bringing it home.
Well looks to be electrical. My drivers door actuator and hatch switch look to be part of the problem. We are thinking the vats module may have a loose ground or getting moisture and shorting. I'm still getting water in the passenger side footwell, and that module just happens to be under the dash on the pass side. Hope to pull the dash this weekend and go from there.
Well looks to be electrical. My drivers door actuator and hatch switch look to be part of the problem. We are thinking the vats module may have a loose ground or getting moisture and shorting. I'm still getting water in the passenger side footwell, and that module just happens to be under the dash on the pass side. Hope to pull the dash this weekend and go from there.
VATS was integrated into the CCM starting in 1990.
Sure nuff. According to the fsm, hoping to just be a loose ground and the CCM looks fairly easy to get. Hope to have time Sunday morning to check it out to see if there is something obvious. Probably not with my luck...it'll be the actual CCM going bad for some odd ball reason.
Latest update. So I've been driving the car all week. Only wouldn't start monday at lunch. With the driver's door actuator not working I have to pop the cover of my alpine deck so it doesn't stay on. So when it wouldn't start I figured I had nothing to lose so I popped the deck in and tried to start. Nothing. Popped it back off, clicked it back on and it fires right up. WTF! So now when I get in the car, before I try to start it, I pop the Deck cover on and I haven't had one issue with the car all week.
Hopefully I didn't just jinx my ***, but it certainly now seems to be in the wiring or a CCM issue. How much does an entire car wiring harness cost? LOL
It got serious this weekend. Lower dash panels are out, as well as the dash pad. The CCM looks good to me and one of the wires I can ground out to make the deck turn off goes to the PKE module. So the PKE has been removed and will take it to an electronics shop to have them check it out. It freakin' looks brand new and nothing is obviously blown out, so we'll see.
While the dash is out, I'm going to have it covered in a carbon fiber style material as the dash pad is getting warped. Hope to pull the steering wheel and get it covered in suede and carbon material as well.
It got serious this weekend. Lower dash panels are out, as well as the dash pad. The CCM looks good to me and one of the wires I can ground out to make the deck turn off goes to the PKE module. So the PKE has been removed and will take it to an electronics shop to have them check it out. It freakin' looks brand new and nothing is obviously blown out, so we'll see.
While the dash is out, I'm going to have it covered in a carbon fiber style material as the dash pad is getting warped. Hope to pull the steering wheel and get it covered in suede and carbon material as well.
Good time to fix all those little annoying squeaks and rattles as well. FWIW, the factory stuck felt and/or the fuzzy side of velcro between pieces of plastic and trim that would rub together. Some strategically placed zip ties help with wiring as well. Just remember that sometimes wires do need to move a little, so don't bundle things too tight.
Personally I'll be surprised if it's the PKE module or the CCM. I don't recall the PKE module having any interface whatsoever with the "run" circuit.
I feel your pain....electrical issues simply suck.
Interesting enough, I had a mechanic friend do some searching a little over a month ago and the PKE Module was one of the first things to pop up to change in a crank, no start condition. I actually totally blew that off until this past weekend and thumbing through the FSM. I'm going to the NCRS show saturday in Kissimmee, so maybe I can score a cheap used PKE and/or CCM just in case. Pssst, yeah right. I've never had good luck with C4 parts there, but it'll be fun nonetheless.
Man this is quite an ordeal you are going through. I hope my 94' never develops this sort of issue. If I lived a little closer to Largo I wouldn't mind helping you wrench. Hope you get this thing figured out!
Good luck! When I was removing the interior for my race car I remember thinking to myself "Thank God I don't have to put all this back in!"
The good news is, I really don't "have to" but it all back in. It's pretty much just my autocross car now, with the occasional trips to the office (8 miles round trip). The carpet has been out for over half a year and most like won't ever go back in (needed to be replaced anyway). Thinking about making some new lower dash panels just to keep the wires tucked away nicely. Not to mention might be able to pick up a little leg room.
Well, no go on the electronics shop being able to test anything on the module. I figured they could test for continuity, but whatever. Will be at the NCRS show in Kissimmee saturday rummaging through the swap meet for a PKE and CCM module, just to have on hand....if the prices are right.
Well, no go on the electronics shop being able to test anything on the module. I figured they could test for continuity, but whatever. Will be at the NCRS show in Kissimmee saturday rummaging through the swap meet for a PKE and CCM module, just to have on hand....if the prices are right.
One thing to be aware of....Mileage is stored in the CCM. If you swap the existing CCM with a different one, you introduce the possibility of licensing issues if the mileage is significantly different or less.
Yeah, I'm hoping to not mess with the CCM (the FSM warns of all kinds of crap), but if I find a great deal, I'm snagging one. I don't expect it to be the CCM though.
Well it looks like I need to find this Ground Distribution block (diagram for driver's door ajar switch to the CCM/PKE/ground).
Where/how the hell do I find that? Of course i'm still not sure if it's directly related to my no start condition, but after it wouldn't fire this morning, I was able to start her by clicking off and clicking back on the Alpine face plate. #makesnosensetome
I was able to replace the PKE module this week then finally able to reprogram my key fob last night...but it'll only pop the hatch and UNLOCK the passenger door. Nothing on the driver's door and won't lock the passenger door. Oh fun!