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You can flame me for this comment if you like, but I have to ask is the overheating actually showing up as fluid flowing into the reservoir?
Or, are you referencing the analog gauge? That gauge is notoriously high. My cluster actually has a sticker stating they aren't 100% accurate.
After i purchased my '92 this past summer, I had to run it through emissions. It was idling in a garage in 104 degree ambient weather during the test and the tech looked at the cluster and freaked out because the gauge was reading so high (~240 degrees). I freaked out a bit too, for a moment, but we cycled the LCD display to see that the temp was actually only 220. A few moments later, I believe at 228, the fans came on and it cooled down.
But one flag i see is that the fans dont cool it down.. it just keeps rising to 250ish deg.
Digital or Analog...make sure you specify this. If it's the Digital gauge Your running hotter then usual, this could be many things..of course the first place to start, is make sure the Cavity between the A/C coil and radiator is Clean. Inspect this area closely and report back.
Sorry it took awhile to reply. It is clean between the raiator and ac condenser.
It gets to where both digital and the tac guage both read up to 250 deg. And now its not just at idle and it shuts down randomly when sitting still.
This time of year the left fan should cycle on and off and the temperature should go from 219-228 (at idle). If you are hitting 230 and the right hand fan comes on and the temp does not come down, there is something wrong.
I would take some of the guess work out and install a "LT1" thermostat. Give it a flush while you are at it.
After that if it is not better, I would get the radiator cleaned out. (Or put a bigger, better one in).
I would do the same, start with the basics. Flush system and replace the thermostat. Also, be very careful not to get water on your optispark! That's how I ruined mine.
On cold engine pull radiator cap and start car. If you have water flow your thermostat is stuck open. If it stuck closed it would over heat driving also.
If its been more than 2 yrs since the radiator was pulled do it
(Sounds like your thermostat is opening check the cap to make sure its good, too or replace they are cheap.)
Then taking a high pressure water hose blast all the fins from the backside forwards over and over til, when you hold it up to light you see its clear. Cleaning between the rad. and the condenser is only the beginning.
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Originally Posted by assain618
Hey guys, my '93 is overheating at idle (about 220-250 degrees.) The fans do kick in. Ive "burped" the system. And have no clue. Please help.
Agree with thermostat idea. Also check 'radiator' cap, 15 psi believe rc27.
Per digital dash temp gauge, driver side fan on at 228, off at 218 -- passenger side fan on at 235, off at 225ish.
AC on should kick on driver side fan regardless of coolant temp and if hot out, also the passenger side fan (trick to keep car cool, turn on AC).
I just put a new stock (delphi) radiator in my 94, and in garage, once the fan kicks on, it comes down from 228 to 218 pretty quick (minutes) -- and while driving -- drops from 228 to 194 in about 1 mile now (used to take 5+ miles). so clogged radiator fins really do make a difference.
Lastly, if analog gauge is move than 10 degrees different than digital, could indicate a bad/wrong thermostat.
Well. I replaced the thermostat. And it still dies out if no where.. (once 5 mins of starting it up sitting still, once going 40mph it cutout and back on after 1 mile, and check engine light wont go off so i took it to o rileys as soon as they hooked up their cpu to it the light went off and read nothing, they took it off and light came right back on, exiting it died and had to wait 30 seconds. And drove it a little over a mile back home)
Oh.. and it still gets to 230 deg. (On both gauges)
Anyone might think it could be electrical problems??