new 383 build
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Adelaide South Australia
Do you run two seperate pipes all the way back, or do you somehow fit your headers into the stock y pipe? I want to put headers on mine, but I also want to keep the emissions stuff. I know I can put the 02 sensor somewhere else on the exhaust, but I have to figure out a way to bring the two headers back into the cat. I know it sounds dumb, but I want to keep all emissions stuff, just in case I want to sale it again, and I am really intent on keeping everything stock, that is another reason why I am rebuilding the stock block, rather then tossing a crate engine in.
I had to weld an o2 bung in the collector,
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Adelaide South Australia
If you go that route you end up with a complete new engine block, you can put your original engine in the garage and its always there for the future ?
But if your keen to build one yourself, then go for it !
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Adelaide South Australia
My next package from summit has arrived, so its back to the engine, first thing is the new chev 400 balancer, i got the summit racing sfi rated balancer, its the same as the one i had on the 350 engine except it has a weight bolted inside the back for the external balance,
i put it in the oven for 15 mins at 120c and it screwed in pretty easy !
next up is the oil pump, summit have a high volume pump kit that its specifically for the corvette sump, its actually a Melling HV55 with a welded on pick up. I got a ARP chromoly shaft too,
i put it in the oven for 15 mins at 120c and it screwed in pretty easy !
next up is the oil pump, summit have a high volume pump kit that its specifically for the corvette sump, its actually a Melling HV55 with a welded on pick up. I got a ARP chromoly shaft too,
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 248
Likes: 8
From: Dayton NV
I saw your links in your engine thread, Im still thinking you cant build an engine for less than a lot of the built short motors especially taking into account having the machine work done and the time involved in building a rotating assembly, tristar for example have a 355 short for 1200, a 383 short for 1800 and there are other engine builders with similiar prices,
If you go that route you end up with a complete new engine block, you can put your original engine in the garage and its always there for the future ?
But if your keen to build one yourself, then go for it !
If you go that route you end up with a complete new engine block, you can put your original engine in the garage and its always there for the future ?
But if your keen to build one yourself, then go for it !
With that crankshaft, piston and rods, that I linked to, will I have to have the block machined for rod and crank clearance?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,973
Likes: 341
From: Adelaide South Australia
I want to be able to say, "I built that engine." I know it sounds stupid, but its just one of my life goals, to build an engine. I agree, it will probably be about the same cost to buy a short block, but its just something I want to do. I appreciate all of your help. One other question:
With that crankshaft, piston and rods, that I linked to, will I have to have the block machined for rod and crank clearance?
With that crankshaft, piston and rods, that I linked to, will I have to have the block machined for rod and crank clearance?
Yes, the block needs to be machined and clearanced for the 383 crank throw, find a machinist near you that knows about building one, you can get that done when the bore and hone etc is done, ask the forum for suggestions if you dont know one yourself,
I would have a look at the Scat 383 sets also, they have some good combos that include bearings and everything you need, maybe 200 - 400 more than that Eagle kit but money well spent
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 248
Likes: 8
From: Dayton NV
Well if building a chev small block is on your bucket list then you better do it !
Yes, the block needs to be machined and clearanced for the 383 crank throw, find a machinist near you that knows about building one, you can get that done when the bore and hone etc is done, ask the forum for suggestions if you dont know one yourself,
I would have a look at the Scat 383 sets also, they have some good combos that include bearings and everything you need, maybe 200 - 400 more than that Eagle kit but money well spent
Yes, the block needs to be machined and clearanced for the 383 crank throw, find a machinist near you that knows about building one, you can get that done when the bore and hone etc is done, ask the forum for suggestions if you dont know one yourself,
I would have a look at the Scat 383 sets also, they have some good combos that include bearings and everything you need, maybe 200 - 400 more than that Eagle kit but money well spent
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,973
Likes: 341
From: Adelaide South Australia
look at tri star engines and cnc-motorsport websites, they have different combinations of built short blocks. read the descriptions tho - they come with varying components, cnc include balancer and flexplate but you pay extra for 4 bolt mains scat rods and scat crank, tristar doesnt include balancer or flexplate but their price includes 4 bolt mains Scat rods and Scat crank, it depends what you want in the engine.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Adelaide South Australia
While the engine is out I have put some fire sleeve on wiring looms near the headers and replaced the starter battery wire as it had rubbed through against the side of the starter, also clamped the wiring looms to the firewall where they are almost up against the number 8 header pipe.
need to get in there and clean it up a bit too !
need to get in there and clean it up a bit too !
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Phila., PA burbs
While the engine is out I have put some fire sleeve on wiring looms near the headers and replaced the starter battery wire as it had rubbed through against the side of the starter, also clamped the wiring looms to the firewall where they are almost up against the number 8 header pipe.
need to get in there and clean it up a bit too !
need to get in there and clean it up a bit too !
Last edited by TA; May 8, 2013 at 07:24 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Adelaide South Australia
thanks for the messages of support guys !
I have finished the "upside down" stuff now, new engine mounts on, sump on using a 1 piece gasket and studs, and all the other sensors etc on, ready to turn it over,
flipped back the right way, time for the heads to go on, I am using a Cometic multi layer head gasket, its a .040 thou thick, 4.060 bore gasket, these are a strange looking setup, they are 3 pieces rivetted together, they arent actually bonded, but are recommended for a high compression engine, I will be running 11.1:1 with the .040 gasket.
you can see that the head gasket is pretty tight on the bore, and thats a good thing, it gets rid of "bad quench" in the engine, this is a subject that comes up every time people talk head gaskets.
I have finished the "upside down" stuff now, new engine mounts on, sump on using a 1 piece gasket and studs, and all the other sensors etc on, ready to turn it over,
flipped back the right way, time for the heads to go on, I am using a Cometic multi layer head gasket, its a .040 thou thick, 4.060 bore gasket, these are a strange looking setup, they are 3 pieces rivetted together, they arent actually bonded, but are recommended for a high compression engine, I will be running 11.1:1 with the .040 gasket.
you can see that the head gasket is pretty tight on the bore, and thats a good thing, it gets rid of "bad quench" in the engine, this is a subject that comes up every time people talk head gaskets.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Adelaide South Australia
time for the heads to go on, after scrubbing all the surfaces with thinners and cleaning the ARP head bolts, I have put assembly lube on the underside of the head bolt, slide on the washer, and RTV silicone smeared on all threads.
the lube on the underside of the bolt is so the head can turn against the washer without binding so the torque is more accurate.
using the edelbrock info sheet, torque down in three steps, 40 - 55 - 65 ft. lbs. of torque.
the lube on the underside of the bolt is so the head can turn against the washer without binding so the torque is more accurate.
using the edelbrock info sheet, torque down in three steps, 40 - 55 - 65 ft. lbs. of torque.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,973
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From: Adelaide South Australia
if you look at the picture of the oil pump on post#45 you can see the sump gasket is back from the stroker clearance machining so i was confident it was going to be ok
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Adelaide South Australia
I have cleaned up the inlet manifold, and fitted the 30lb Bosch red top injectors,
I have got some new alloy rocker covers and giving them a test fit, whether they fit when the engine is in the engine bay or not, who knows ?
for the people who have changed to this type of rocker cover without the oil inlet, what is the best way to get the oil into the engine ?
I have got some new alloy rocker covers and giving them a test fit, whether they fit when the engine is in the engine bay or not, who knows ?
for the people who have changed to this type of rocker cover without the oil inlet, what is the best way to get the oil into the engine ?
