C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 04:54 AM
  #21  
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Does anyone know the location of the fuse able link. Is it in the car, under the hood or in the wires that go to the pump.
thank you
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 01:39 PM
  #22  
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I don't think I would be overly concerned about the fuel pump. If it didn't work, the engine would not start or idle. The fuel pressure would be more of a concern.
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 03:34 PM
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But when I use the G terminal on the ALDL to test the fuel pump the wire has no power so therefore it must be fixed even if it is not the problem.
thank you
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:14 AM
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The saga continues sort of. I found out why the car was stalling. I think
I changed the oil pressure sensor at the distributor and discovered my oil pressure was very low. Why because I was two quarts low. The old sender said I had 40 or more psi. The red bar came up as soon as I stated the car.
but still mo pump prime on start up.
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 03:10 PM
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:
Originally Posted by jseremba
The saga continues sort of. I found out why the car was stalling. I think
I changed the oil pressure sensor at the distributor and discovered my oil pressure was very low. Why because I was two quarts low. The old sender said I had 40 or more psi. The red bar came up as soon as I stated the car.
but still mo pump prime on start up.
are you getting good fuel pressure when you turn the key on?? does it stay up?? you haven't said what your pressure is...
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 04:41 PM
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If I prime the car it runs great but I cannot get the pump to come on to prime the injectors.
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jseremba
If I prime the car it runs great but I cannot get the pump to come on to prime the injectors.
just turn the key on....don't try to start it....what is the pressure?

check your cold start injector...
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 07:46 PM
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COLD START INJECTOR ! If I just turn on the car no pump pressure
the does not run at all ��
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 07:56 PM
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So I am following the directions in chary A-6. It says test light on Terminal E and on terminal B no light fix open ground. So I decided to run a wire for terminal B to the battery meg. No test light. Then. I probe E to ground no light . So I lost E. Then I run a wire from battery to E and a wire to battery negative. I connected them using the test light. Got SMOKE. Is the connector causing the problem?
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jseremba
So I am following the directions in chary A-6. It says test light on Terminal E and on terminal B no light fix open ground. So I decided to run a wire for terminal B to the battery meg. No test light. Then. I probe E to ground no light . So I lost E. Then I run a wire from battery to E and a wire to battery negative. I connected them using the test light. Got SMOKE. Is the connector causing the problem?
if you have applied 12 v to 'g' and got no pressure, and don't get pressure when you turn the key on, why don't you think it's the fuel pump?..get a new one and a relay at the same time...or try the relay first...they;re not that expensive...
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 09:40 PM
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I bought the pump in February of this year. It has 1000 miles on. Plus if the pump were no good the car would not run,correct?
if I prime the car with gas it runs fine. In fact now that have changed the oil pressure switch I can ride the starter and it will start and run,well.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:18 PM
  #32  
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Yeah, it's not your pump that is the problem. It's either the wiring or relays that is the problem.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:50 PM
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Can the connector cause the problem. here is why I ask.
According to the shop manual terminal E of the connector is always hot. Terminal B is a ground. So I take my test lamp and go from E to B no light. Then I run a ground from the battery to terminal B and try the light. I get smoke, yep smoke and I loose power at terminal E. I can start and run the car. I assume through the relay. But all I can figure is that the connector is causing shorts. Is that possible?
thank you.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:52 PM
  #34  
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oops I forgot the fuel pump relay is new. and so is the oilpressure switch.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 07:03 PM
  #35  
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The connector could be a problem, but first let's check a few things. Do you have an ohmmeter? If not, go get one. They are very helpful when looking for electrical problems. Use the ohmmeter and check resistance from B to a known ground. It should be very close to zero, not infinity. If you are not seeing zero, then you need to fix that ground wire. Once B to ground is zero resistance, then check B to D, B to A, and B to E. Those should all be infinity, not zero. Also check C to D, C to A, and C to E. Those should all be infinity, also. If B and/or C to A, D, or E is zero or anything less than infinity, then you have a short in the connector somewhere. Another check to do is on the relay itself. A to D should be zero and A to E should be infinity.
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 10:39 PM
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I have no power at E I am thinking that the fuse able link at the starter may be fried? Cause I should have power there all the time. And I did until I tried the E to B with the circuit tester
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 12:29 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jseremba
I have no power at E I am thinking that the fuse able link at the starter may be fried? Cause I should have power there all the time. And I did until I tried the E to B with the circuit tester
In your other post on this subject I suggested you look at figure 8A-9, which shows the location of C341.. This is the power side of the fusible link which feeds C340, which feeds E of the relay and the oil pressure switch..
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by gwbutch
The connector could be a problem, but first let's check a few things. Do you have an ohmmeter? If not, go get one. They are very helpful when looking for electrical problems. Use the ohmmeter and check resistance from B to a known ground. It should be very close to zero, not infinity. If you are not seeing zero, then you need to fix that ground wire. Once B to ground is zero resistance, then check B to D, B to A, and B to E. Those should all be infinity, not zero. Also check C to D, C to A, and C to E. Those should all be infinity, also. If B and/or C to A, D, or E is zero or anything less than infinity, then you have a short in the connector somewhere. Another check to do is on the relay itself. A to D should be zero and A to E should be infinity.

If you don't have a ground on B, check G160, Fig.8A-19.. FYI the 84 DOES NOT have a cold start injector..

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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 04:52 AM
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Thank you for the troubleshoot suggestion and I am so glad to hear that it does not have a cold start injector because I have the manual and I don't see it in the diagrams ��
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:49 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by jseremba
I have no power at E I am thinking that the fuse able link at the starter may be fried? Cause I should have power there all the time. And I did until I tried the E to B with the circuit tester
So I ran a wire from terminal B to the intake manifold and then used my Fluke 7-300 electrical tester to test resistance. The meter beeped. Which means ZERO resistance. for all of the other tests I get OL which I think means infinity.
Remmebering that I had power at E, last week, and lost power after I tied to go from E to B. I do not know what is going on.
I went to the fuse box and discovered that there is no power on the fuses marked Crank, Inst and FP.
I can start and run the car. Just ride the starter a little get 5 or more pounds of oil pressure and it fires right up. But I would still like to have everything working correctly.
thank you for the help.
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