C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

just a few problems

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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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Default just a few problems

so i bought a 91 corvette and it has a few problems...possibly a few maybe more who knows lol but heres the list, first thing i noticed when i got it was the brakes didnt work correctly, thought it was calipers but after changing all the calipers and brake pads it has to be the booster from what i read. i think the fuel pump is going out cuz it kinda studders when i floor it but idk. and the biggest one right now is i changed the battery and after a few times driving it around it wont start, i first saw a problem when it wouldnt start, opened and shut the door for some odd reason and tried it again and it worked, kept that up for a few more times and now nothing.....so im not the greatest machanic but im willing to try anything to get the car back into tip top shape except for taking it to the shop, any ideas where to start???
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by somethingwitty
i think the fuel pump is going out cuz it kinda studders when i floor it but idk.
What is "idk" Can not help if I do not understand you type.

Is da engine turning over when you turn da key??

Or... duz it du nuttin'???

Oh...my fault...

Could be a possible VATS/anti-theft issue.

Possible BCM/CCM failure due to the cars age....because the BCM/CCM is what read the value of the chip in your ignition key. If it "feels" that the car is trying to be stolen...due to the chip in the key or the area in the lock cylinder is worn out...and sending a false value to the BCM/CCM...it will shut down the ability of the car to start. Usually 7-9 minutes for the system to re-set.

Bad neutral safety switch...but you did not write if it is an automatic or manual.

Loose or corroded battery cables also.

You need a fuel pressure gauge before you buy stuff.

Could be bad or loose connections at the starter solenoid.

Can be many other "things". But WITHOUT a scanner to read what data stream is available...trying to work on an engine with issues is almost pointless due to this data stream is needed and will often direct you to a problem even though NO CODE is being stored and the "check engine" or Service Engine Soon" light is NOT coming on.

DUB
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 11:20 AM
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idk = "I don't know"
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 01:01 PM
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Try putting your key in the drivers door and locking unlocking the door. Also how much gas when it shudders and what kinda shape are your plugs/wires?
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:27 PM
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the cables on the car are good, im going to take the battery out and put it back in after i give it a full charge tomorrow to see if maybe i just put the cables on too loose or something the first time.
The car is manual by the way so it cant be the neutral safety switch.
And the key locks and unlocks the door just fine, is that a way to test the chip or...?
and its not quite petal to the floor all the time when it shudders but mostly when running through the 1st and 2nd gear if that helps
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:43 PM
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If it starts after locking and unlocking the door with the key, not the fob, it's your anti theft system that's causing it. The activation is in the lock I think.
Common problem on C4's.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 04:26 PM
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so update on the starting problem, feeling pretty stupid about this one lol so seeing as how i had just replaced the battery when this started thinking the battery was bad didnt cross my mind, but thats exactly what it was, got a new battery with the warranty and presto started right up.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 04:28 PM
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the old battery just had enough juice to put the lights on but not enough to get the starter kickin
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by somethingwitty
the old battery just had enough juice to put the lights on but not enough to get the starter kickin
Just make sure that the contact surfaces of your battery cables where they contact the terminals of the battery are clean and free from any corrosion or residue. And make sure your cables are tight.

I can not tell you how many electrical issues that I come across have to do with the connections at the battery.

Glad you got it fixed.

DUB
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB
Just make sure that the contact surfaces of your battery cables where they contact the terminals of the battery are clean and free from any corrosion or residue. And make sure your cables are tight.
And remember that battery cables have TWO ends. The connections to the engine block and starter are also important.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
And remember that battery cables have TWO ends. The connections to the engine block and starter are also important.
Glad you had my back on that one. I have encountered numerous times...when I went and removed the nut that holds the positive cable on the starter solenoid (Pre-LT-1 engines)...that the stud on the solenoid is not totally secured...which can create an effect of a bad starter or battery. And the ground on the block...and all other grounds...and we all should know need to be clean and tight.

DUB
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by somethingwitty
The car is manual by the way so it cant be the neutral safety switch.


For those that don't know any better ;
manual cars have a starter safety switch on the clutch pedal that performs the same function as the NSS.
Clutch pedal must be depressed before engine will crank over
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteoz


For those that don't know any better ;
manual cars have a starter safety switch on the clutch pedal that performs the same function as the NSS.
Clutch pedal must be depressed before engine will crank over
UUUUHHHH...YEP. 110% correct!!! That changes everything.

DUB
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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Hopefully the new battery has fixed the issue, but keep an eye on your volt gauge. First reading your post, I thought you may have an alternator going bad.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by vetteoz


For those that don't know any better ;
manual cars have a starter safety switch on the clutch pedal that performs the same function as the NSS.
Clutch pedal must be depressed before engine will crank over
Yeah I definitely didn't know any better haha

And I'll be keeping an eye out for the alternator for sure
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