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My every day car is at the shop for some maintenance. so I make the decision to take the vette to my job for the first time. is like a 20 minutes ride. but with the traffic and all it take about 45 minutes.
well today it was a lot of traffic.. I was like 10 minutes to destination. and the engine stop 2 times. I put in neutral and crank again I keep going . at the end. about 5 minutes from detonation the car stop. never start again
I open the hood. and the negative battery terminal was super hot, to the point that I burn my finger when I touch it. it was kind of louse. so I tide up a little more
I try to star the car again. I get start, engine ran for about 2 second and them stop.
I ask some of my coworkers friend to help me tow the car to the office parking. so they did. and the car is now park at my office.
I just found an easier and more direct way to turn on the fuel pump. Remove the connector from the oil pressure switch (behind the distributor) and jumper the red and orange wires together. I used a pair of tweezers. The ignition does NOT have to be on. The connector is held on with a plastic lock ring, so you have to unhook the lock ring to disconnect it. Here's the connector:
Here's why it works (corrected diagram from FSM page 6E3-A-68):
The diagram in the FSM does not show the "FP" fuse and some of the circuit numbers and wire colors are wrong.
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Last edited by Cliff Harris; Dec 6, 2013 at 03:20 AM.
I just found an easier and more direct way to turn on the fuel pump. Remove the connector from the oil pressure switch (behind the distributor) and jumper the red and orange wires together. I used a pair of tweezers. The ignition does NOT have to be on. The connector is held on with a plastic lock ring, so you have to unhook the lock ring to disconnect it. Here's the connector:
Here's why it works (corrected diagram from FSM page 6E3-A-68):
The diagram in the FSM does not show the "FP" fuse and some of the circuit numbers and wire colors are wrong.
I just found an easier and more direct way to turn on the fuel pump. Remove the connector from the oil pressure switch (behind the distributor) and jumper the red and orange wires together. I used a pair of tweezers. The ignition does NOT have to be on. The connector is held on with a plastic lock ring, so you have to unhook the lock ring to disconnect it. Here's the connector:
Here's why it works (corrected diagram from FSM page 6E3-A-68):
The diagram in the FSM does not show the "FP" fuse and some of the circuit numbers and wire colors are wrong.
this morning I set out to do the G test at the ALDL connector. but first I decided to give a try to the key . and to my surprise. the fuel pump start working. I start the car. and work.
now what can be causing this problem. remember yesterday was one of the few times that I took the car for a long ride with heavy traffic. so maybe the heat have something to do with it. now that the car is cool is working again. this is only an assumption of my.
any ideas
just to let you know the fuel pump is new. I install about 6 month ago. and I simply don't use the car much
ok more findings. try to start the car again. fuel pump not working. no start condition. again
I did measure the volts at the connector in top of the fuel tank. right before it go into fuel pump it self.
I get a riding of 9.5 volts when I open the key swish, fuel pump not working.
also measure the battery volts with the engine not running key to off is 12.5 volts. key to on position I get battery reading of 12.1 volts, iam getting good crank from the starter motor.
please tell me if the reading of 9.5 volt at the top of the fuel tank is good enough for the fuel pump to work. (I guest not)
please someone advice. at this time my vette is on my office parking lot. I need to find out what is wrong to take it home
thinking. may be the battery is to low and the alternator is not working properly.
Last edited by hitmanpty; Dec 6, 2013 at 02:39 PM.
Remember that the ECM turns on the fuel pump for 2 seconds and then turns it off. It won't turn on again until the ECM sees reference pulses from the distributor.
If you are measuring 9.5 volts at the fuel pump with ALDL terminal G connected to 12 volts (are you SURE it's 12 volts?) then there might be a problem in the fuel pump relay or connectors or wiring. Try hitting the fuel pump relay a few times with a screwdriver handle. It might make a better connection.
Try my earlier suggestion of jumpering across the oil pressure switch connector. That should apply battery voltage directly to the fuel pump (through the connectors and wires, or course).
May also want to check the fuel pump relay connector wiring, insulation may have shrunk, allowing intermittent short.
This is what my 86 looked like at OD and fuel pump relays.
Also may want to have a close look at how clean and tight both battery terminals are, and the junction block(by MAF relays) where power is distributed.
Remember that the ECM turns on the fuel pump for 2 seconds and then turns it off. It won't turn on again until the ECM sees reference pulses from the distributor.
If you are measuring 9.5 volts at the fuel pump with ALDL terminal G connected to 12 volts (are you SURE it's 12 volts?) then there might be a problem in the fuel pump relay or connectors or wiring. Try hitting the fuel pump relay a few times with a screwdriver handle. It might make a better connection.
Try my earlier suggestion of jumpering across the oil pressure switch connector. That should apply battery voltage directly to the fuel pump (through the connectors and wires, or course).
I measure 9.5 volts just by turning the key to on. with out the G terminal connected to 12 volts.
any way. if the oil swish have pleasure why the car turn off when running I meant I was driving and the car stop. no matter if the relay is ok or not the oil switch give constant volts to the pump right. the relay is mostly to start the car. after that the 2 systems work together correct me if am wrong