I just recently got a 1996 vette. It has the key less remote system but it did not come with the remote. I got a new OEM remote per vin number and it will not program. Right after I got the car I had to replace the ignition switch the key would not come out. Question the replacement key switch is not VATS could this be why the new remote will not program?

Thanks for any info

 

You have to have a VATS chip in the key to make the engine run....AND the lock cylinder in the steering column has to also have the provision in it to read the value of the "chip" in the key.

DUB

 

It is an aftermarket key cylinder and non chip key the engine starts and runs fine. Thats why I'm wondering if it has to be a "chip" key to make the key less remote to be programed.

 

When you turn the key to the run position does the pke lamp illuminate?

 

not all the time and some times it stays on

 

It should light for about 5 seconds and then go out.
if you have the transmitter on the key take it off
turn ignition to run position
press and release trip odometer button
press trip odometer button and hold for 5 seconds
within 5 seconds push and hold fuel info button for 10 seconds
the passive light should come on steady
tiurn ignition key to lock position leave key in lock
the passive key lamp should now begin flashing
bring the transmitter in to range and the light will come on and stay on
move the transmitter out of range and the light will flash again and it is ready for the next transmitter
once you have the transmitter programmed remove the key from the ignition
it does say in the service manual you need a valid key so you may need the vats key?
hope it helps you

 

I'm thinking you are right about the VATS key

 

VATS has nothing to do with keyless or passive entry. If the car starts, the chip in the key is fine so forget about that.

But the lock cylinder does have a contact in it and if it does not work correctly, you can't program vats. The cylinder has an orange wire which runs down the column and connects at the bottom. If that is not there or connected when the replacement was done, then vats won't work.
** PLEASE SEE MY NEXT POST FOR A CORRECTION **


As said, does you PKE lamp light for 2 seconds when you turn the ignition to just the ON position?

Does your chimes ding when you put the key in and open the door?

 

The Transport driver lost the key and remote to my 1993 I picked up. The shop could not get the remote to program and had to replace the SL-N-Actuator and the SL-N Transmittter to get the Remote to program correctly....It wasn't cheap.

Karsten

 

The PKE light does not come on when I turn the key to the ON position.

It does not have a VATS cylinder with the wire you are talking about. The cylinder was replaced with an aftermarket cylinder and has no chip key.

The chimes ding when the door is opened with or with out the key in the ignition. On the dash it flashes "SECURTY" when the door is opened with or with out the key in the ignition.

 

Did you try to get it into the programming mode following the directions I sent you? What happens when you press the lock button on the transmitter and hold it? Do the door locks cycle?

 

Someone...somewhere in the cars history must have either installed the VATS by-pass module...which takes the "chip" in the key out of the equation for theft. I have also seen where people removed the column lock cylinder and left the old lock cylinder connected to the VATS wiring and left the key in that lock cylinder and tucked it up under the dash....which for whatever reason they did...made it so NO key with a chip was needed...which is a joke..in my opinion.

Something has to have been done...because with NO chip in the key...the car should not crank and run. The BMC or CCM would need to be removed to change, modify or eliminate the VATS circuit...which can not be done by the normal mechanic.

With you not needing a key with a chip can be your issue or part of it for the programming as you had noticed.

The "SECURITY" flashing is correct. This is telling you that the system has not been armed by using your power door lock switch. IF you lock the doors with the power door lock switch (and they are open)...the "SECURITY" light will no longer flash and will stay steady on. When the door is shut ( you leaving the car)...the system will be armed and require either the key fob to unlock the door and dis-arm it or the key in the door lock cylinder to dis-arms the system. I you lock the door with the power door lock switch and close the door and you are still in the car....when the ignition is turned on..the car will crank because the door was not opened and trigger the theft system.

DUB

 

Yes I tryed the instructions you sent me (they match the instructions that came with the remote) and it still does not work. When I press the lock button and hold it nothing happens. I'm still thinking I need a VATS ingition switch to make it work. It has an aftermarket ignition switch that does not require a "chip" key.

I could not get the key out of the original VATS ignition switch so that's why it was replaced with an aftermarket one.

 

Where can I look to see if it has the stock VATS system is hooked up or a by-pass module installed?

The "SECURITY" light does as you said. Blinks and stays on when the power door lock is used.

I still have the original ignition switch with the VATS key stuck in it (that's why it was replaced with an aftermarket switch) do you think if I hooked it back up the remote can be programed?

 

A lot of good info since my first post.

Need to make a correction to my first post as I had to think this out again. The Orange double wire is the VATS wire. It connects at the bottom of the column. If disconnected, a proper bypass resister can be put in. This would not bypass VATS, it would still be active and working but just not activated by the key pellet.

With the PKE light is not lighting for 2 second, this indicates the PKE receiver is bad or the PKE is in sleep mode. Usually the PKE is bad. But if in sleep mode, you can still program the key FOBs if all else is working correctly (which it is not).

Not too long ago I put a lock cylinder in my car. It did come with non chip key. I knew what key number my key was and had a locksmith make 3 new keys for me in regard to the new blank. This is the correct process and nothing else has to be changed. All worked in the car as original.

The another switch that is used for the PKE and is a standalone switch and rides externally on the lock cylinder. It does not get replaced when the cylinder does but a proper re-install has to be done. If they bent it or broke it and made it non functioning, PKE will not work. The steering wheel and lock plate would need to be removed to get to this area.

The first problem here with trying to program the PKE is that the external switch does not seem to be active. It needs to open and close to change the PKE from mode to mode (key in and out). It is a major clue here that if the door open dings with key in or out, obviously this is incorrect and the switch is always in the closed position as if the key was in.

If you want the PKE to work, the first step is to get the switch operating correctly.
(It is only my guess that the switch is bad and not knowing if someone shorted the wire below the column).

Then trying to program the PKE and see if it is possible. If no success, PKE receiver might need to be replaced.

Make sure fuses 40,42 and 26 are good

PKE is a complex system. These are just beginning steps. Fix what is broke first then move on.

 

What colt said. The "door open" ding should not sound with the key out. If it does you have something wrong with the ignition cylinder, and I doubt if you have any chance of programming a remote fob until that is fixed. If you get that fixed and it still does not work, give us more detail. Don't just say that the programming would not work, tell us exactly what you did and what happened and exactly when the programming procedure stopped working like he book says it should.

 

I think you are right about the ignition cylinder. It chimes with the door open and no key in it. I will fix that then start from scratch with the programing and post up what happens.

 

I found this today it is a good read on the C4 PKE/alarm system.

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_11...repair_part_1/


Altho after reading it the remote still will not program. So as stated above I'm going to start at the ignition switch and go from there.

 

There is one glaring error in that article in how the C4 PKE system operates.

The "Door" button on the FOB will NEVER lock or unlock the drivers door.
If the FOB passive mode is programmed to only operate the drivers door, then the door button will unlock the passenger door (but will not lock it).
Holding the door button down will also turn the system on or off.

But the C4 PKE system will never operate like other fobs as listed in the article.

 

I let it slide but RolloMo got the thunder. He is perfectly correct.

However I am going to add a link for Blackopps. This is the owner's manual for the 96 car. This is what you need to read as it is the correct information for the corvette.

I take it you don't have one.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/download...96corvette.pdf