So upon removing my s/c 383 from my 1992 I found that my dual friction centerforce clutch is shot.. I am going to replace it while the engine is out and I would like your guys opinions on what to go with next. I had the dual friction with the fidanza aluminum flywheel in it. The Centerforce just couldnt hold the power and when I hit 3rd gear she would slip ocassionally. That clutch is rated for high 500 ft/lbs torque.

So now I am looking at replacement options. Any input here guys?

 

What failed ? (from my own experience) did the flywheel warp; did the friction material glaze over? was the disc contaminated with oil ? did the friction material just wear out ? was the throw out bearing (in)correctly adjusted ? did the pressure plate have issues, like incorrectly adjusted or broken springs? Try to analyze the failure mode first; buy new clutch last.

 

The clutch is fine, the disc is just wore down to nothing from 3rd gear slips under alot of power. My car makes about the max recommend torque for the clutch and it just couldn't hold it. The flywheel is in good shape and so is the pressure plate. Besides the burn marks from slipping that is.

Ram makes a clutch that's pretty sweet but it's another grand. Uhg

 

I have a SPEC Stage 2+ in a customers 430RWHP 6spd 96 LT4 and it worked great for just over 25K miles.... at that point he started having engagement/dis-engagement issues... turns out the TOB collar had cracked. But honestly it worked perfectly for a long time and he drove that car pretty hard. The Stage 2+ drives like a stock clutch pretty much except it had great holding power.

When we were swapping that engine/drivetrain into his 96 GS Vert we found the TOB problem. The rest of the clutch was still OK but SPEC helped him out a little with a brand new replacement clutch assy.

I have a SPEC Stage 3 in my 92 6spd. 487RWHP. Raced all the time and daily driven in the summer months. This is a puck stlye clutch and it locks up very abruptly. Takes a little differet technique to drive them smoothly. Chatters a little when you get it hot like when it's been slipped a bunch in traffic. It's also very hard on rear end parts if you have any traction. I put over 20K miles on my first Stage 3 and have just over 10K miles on my second Stage 3... I still have that first one in my shop as a back up.... I was very surprised that it showed very little wear after all that driving and racing.

I am considering going to a SPEC Stage 2+ in my 92 to get away fom the harsh engagement which tends to tear up rear end stuff at the drag strip.
Will

 

Will,

Do u have part numbers handy and what flywheel are you running?

 

Sure.

I assume your car is a 1990?

STAGE 2 - PN SC423HZ

http://www.lmperformance.com/655709/25.html

Stage 3 - PN SC423Z

http://www.lmperformance.com/655468/25.html

I run a Fidanza Alum FW on my 92.

I used the SPEC billet steel FW on the 96.

Just FYI - The Stage 3 may make a clicking or grinding noise on engagement when using an Alum FW for the first few hundred miles.... It's the sharp edges of the clutch disk pucks hitting the sharp edges of the counter sunk screw holes on the FW friction surface... the first time I installed mine and took it for a drive the noise scared the crap out of me and I pulled the tranny 3 times and couldn't find anything wrong before it finally dawned on me.... once the puck edges and counter sunk screw edges were rounded off a little it went away.
Will

 

It's a 92

 

Thanks will. I'm going to go with the 2+

 

I'm running a Mcleod street twin with steel flywheel in my 95. I have heard complaints about the abrupt engagement of this clutch, but my experience has been that it is really smooth and predictable. Its a little heavier than stock pedal wise, but I love it so far.

 

OK. Same clutch from 89-93. Those PNs are the right ones.
Will

 

My spec 2+ came today. Here are some pics. the plate does not have the springs in the center. This concerns me. I dont think it is correct for a single mass flywheel. I am using the fidanza aluminum flywheel.

 

Smooth, you should be good to go. I have the same pressure plate to mate to a steel non dual mass flywheel. I see you went with the solid hub. I wanted a sprung hub for my stage 3+ disc but got a solid hub instead. I ended up sending the solid back because mine will be a street only ride. Interested to hear your feedback on the solid hub if you will be streeting it.

 

So I dont need a sprung hub with a single mass flywheel? My car is street driven and I expected a disk with a sprung center. Wouldnt it being solid affect drivability?

 

are all the set ups your talking about pull type or have you changed over to the push type with a different throw out bearing. thx

 

Smooth,

I would be concerned too; I run the Spec Stage 2 in my car as well, but for some reason I have the springs in the disc and I think you do want that for the single mass aluminum FW; that is the same FW I run as well; my guess is that it will be an unforgiving clutch ....

Not sure though, but I think spring hub discs are better with the aluminum FW.

I once had a RAM puck style disc with no springs......reverse gear was unusable unless you did not care the car was shaking itself to destruction..........

 

From my research, the solid hubs are not as street friendly. My kit came with one on accident and they tried to talk me into keeping it. That was back in December. I JUST got the correct disc from spec. Talked to a C5 Z owner running a solid and he says on street driving his car eats the solid clutches like candy. But he's cranking 650 out for hp.