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my 92 would not restart after a 30 mile drive, was low on gas put gas in still would not start. When turning over it sounded as if it would start but did not. I let it sit for 2 hrs waiting for a tow and it started but would not rev over 1500 rpm and sounded as if it was popping thru the intake.
Sent it to a shop and am now into $4500 of repairs and it still will not run. (still at the shop) they replaced a fan thinking it was overheating, then replaced a leaking water pump and hoses, then the opti-spark, then the distributor, then the module, now they want to send the computer out to have it gone thru at another $400. Am I a fool or is this a common problem with the 92 at 126k. Not this car is not driven in bad weather, no snow, rain, fog ect.
I would want to know what the fuel pressure is. the amount of fuel the pump is flowing and the fuel quality. These things are not that difficult
If this shop you have working on it...hopefully have the GM service manual for it.
So many tests need to be done to verify that these systems are in proper operating condition.
You did not write how the car was running during the 30 mile run...and before it...and if it was beginning to "act" up.
Changing out the cooling fan was pointless...because the coolant temp gets to 226 degrees F before they cooling fans come on. And also the radiator can be blocked by debris in front of the left cooling fan...which is common....which will make the fan run longer due to it can not pull air through the radiator as designed due to this blockage from bird feathers, candy wrappers and leaves. And if they can not get it to run...why get a fan.
So sorry to hear a story like this and no this is not a common occurrence for a 92. They are throwing parts at it and probably have no real electronics knowledge or experience. By the way, the opti IS the distributor. How did it get so far out of hand. Sounds like your paying for parts that are good and their still guessing (at your expense).
I don’t see how you can just walk away from a $4500 bill like that and go somewhere else. It's like blowing off $200. You would know if the car was overheating yourself by the gauges and other indications. Have they ever reset the ECM or check for codes. A code might give you a direction. Bet you they don’t know how to check for codes.
Unfortunately you are in deep and in a tight spot. Is this a small shop?
They have the Shot Gun, and your providing the Ammo..
I feel your pain, Unfortunately as these cars Age fewer and fewer shops know how to deal with them, and If they can get away with it.. They start throwing good parts on top of good parts at your expense!
For what it is worth...and not like it is going to do much good.....but when I am repairing any Corvette (new or old)...I make sure that the parts I choose to replace DO make a difference. Sometimes replacing one part fixes one thing...but now another part needs to be replaced because it was being masked by the first part being bad. But regardless of that...I DO NOT just throw parts at a car and charge people and still have nothing to show for it.
I really hate it for you and "those guys" whoa re attempting to fix your Corvette need to be.....uhhh....well I thing you know what I may be thinking. What a disgrace to the profession I am proud to be in.
OK so lets go back over your symptoms. After the car died you said it would not climb over 1500 RPM and was popping through the intake.
?'s
Was it the kind of poppoing like a backfire?
Or did it sound like a miss-fire.
What did it do when it reached 1500 RPM or did it just barely stutter up to it?
If it was indeed a backfire you need to check the timing. It is very possible that it could have jumped a link in the chain at 126k on a stock timing chain. If it was a miss-fire I would in fact check the fuel pressure like the other members have already told you. If the motor does not have the correct amount of fuel it will not accelerate and will not start.