Why not replace the retainer screws with stainless steel or aluminum and put sealant on the threads of the screw? Wouldn't that fix the problem of water getting to the frame past the retainer screws?

I do think if one is replacing the weatherstripping and the retainers haven't ever been removed. Then may be a good idea to remove the retainers to replace the foam underneath. Don't know how long that foam stuff is supposed to last though.

 

when i did mine the old gasket on the windshield wasnt glued and it was constantly pulling out of the grove. Got tired of sticking it back in everytime i took my roof off. Asked my buddy whos a body man to check and he said there supposed to be glued all along the top and not on th sides.

 

On your other post...at the top of the A-pillar ...there is a black sealant/putty that is used under the spot where the push-in pin goes. This allows a little bit of adjust-ability to get the targa roof weatherstrip or convertible top weatherstrip so seat well with each other and not leak/drip.


I will say this...that if the windshield has been serviced..I would take the time and look into this especially if the car is exposed to the outside elements. I recently have removed some moldings on cars that have the original windshield..and the foam tape was still doing its job. I have also removed molding on cars with a replacement windshield...and when I remove them...the amount of rust is amazing...and this is due to the windshield tech flooded the area in with urethane and that does not work at all. Also the foam seal between the weatherstrip track for the A-pillar to the trim molding was left out...a BIG MISTAKE.

I am only writing from years of doing this...take from it what you want....or nothing from it at all.

DUB

 

by all the wear on my windsheild glass I would have to say its the factory original, the a-pillar once cleaned off was in great shape, the only problem I having is with the targa top frame being corroded, I removed all the oxidation spray with self etching primer, primed over that and painted it a high gloss black, this morning I will place the weather strip retainers back on the taga top frame just as the FSM describes. I will try and post pics later.

 

I am finally done and am going to take it for a ride.

This is how the corrosion on the targa looked.


I wired wheeled it and masked everything off, primed and painted along with the weatherstrip retainers. I also had to grind the screw heads off and drill and tap new holes.


I had to place a 50 pound sand bag on top in order to compress the new weatherstrip. I then had to remove the sun visor's, rear view mirror and trim piece along the top of the A piller one more time to adjust the targa top screws.


Completed I will leave the targa in place for at least a week and then water test it and make final adjustments.

 

FOR WHAT IT MAY BE WORTH TO YOU....and others.

Installing weatherstrips on a coupe with the acrylic targa roof may take a bit more effort.

Knowing that the density of the aftermarket weatherstrips are a bit denser than the factory latex weatherstrips....when the targa roof is being bolted in place...if the density of the new weatherstrips are greater than the original...the targa roof may go in fine and bolt down.....

BUT...what can happen is that due to the denser weatherstrips...it can apply tension on the acrylic and cause for it to buckle, warp or even crack. ESPECIALLY when it is subjected to extreme heat from the sun.

DUB

 

I treat the fresh rubbers with my favorite rubber protectant before closing windows or doors.
This lets the rubber move around some find its natural position.

 

DUB, you always provide great advice

 

Does any one even make weatherstrip the same density as the factory.

 

There are a few aftermarket mfgrs of these parts.
And sold by most of the Corvette catalog resellers.
So I believe the Corvette Central is one of the product name on the part.

Others will chime in soon as there is always opinions on the differences..

 

I believe that all the USA weatherstrip is made by CRC witch leave's the cheep china stuff, supersoft witch I have herd bad reviews or the latex that places like CC cary witch I have herd mixed reviews about. The original latex was foam covered with a thin latex skin.

 

This is a timely thread and lot of good info...hoping to do my weatherstripping in the coming weeks!

 

YES..they are latex...like the factory...I still have a few in stock that I am holding onto. The reproductions are being held up at the moment. I am waiting on the guy I know who has them made let me know when they are being made again.

These latex weatherstrips have been "tweaked" on and they are just about perfect...and they are so close I have no problem in using them and selling them. I am a "tester" for this guy and I am so PICKY that if I see anything that is not quite right...I let him know.

DUB

 

YES...the latex had its problems but the company would give you a new one without question. I have warrantied out several...but the thing I like about the latex is how all of the components that come into contact with it...act like they are designed to act.

And the reproduction latex is the same as GM. The issue is getting the blend of the foam JUST RIGHT along with the skin of latex. From me talking to Ken about it...the process is very, very precise. He knows A LOT about it due to he is investing a lot of $$$ to have these reproduced and he wants them RIGHT. SO I am patient...because the other options on the market do not meet my liking. Many of these weatherstrips are is too dense in my opinion.

DUB

 

I went out to adjust my windows for the new weatherstrip, I did not notice before but the B-Piller weatherstrip going down each side of the side windows has a large gap that I can not adjust out, I emailed Willcox and hope they will respond by Monday. As far as I can see the B-Piller going down the sides needs to be thicker. i have compared it to the old factory B-Piller weatherstrip and it is not as thick.

 

There is not that much room for the door glass to be able to be pulled in to get contact to the vertical section of the "B" pillars.

What year is your Corvette? I know in your screen name it has 1984...but I hate to assume. Changes and improvements were made in the later years...so this is why I am asking.

Is the gap tight and correct at the top where it meets the targa roof panel...and then widen and create a gap at the bottom where it meets the door main weatherstrip???

DUB

 

It's a 1990, the gap is mostly in the middle of the window, fits good along the top where it meets the targa top and fits good along the leading edge of the door windows.

 

What company makes the reproduction latex?

 

There is...or should be a black plastic guide that bolts to your door glass. It rides on a vertical metal rod in the front of the door about 4-5 inches back. This guide is really important. IF it is broken...it MUST be replaced.

IF you rear edge of the door glass has a gap...and the gap is at the bottom...by the outer window seal area....and goes up and then seals up by the targa roof. You might be not be able to fix this. There is no way that I have found to draw the window in...and this is use to the rear stop with the tilting feature in it. It is WHERE IT IS and you can not move it inwards due to how it is mounted to the door housing and also that large aluminum plate in the door. The door panel has to go where it goes and can not be "fudged" inwards. the felt adjuster can be moved....but that will only do so much.

If the gap is in the middle and the top and bottom are sealing...then it can only be the weatherstrip. In my opinion. You might have to remove the weatherstrip and notch the holes for the screws that hold the retainer on the 'B' pillar and move it out some....but that will also be controlled by how dense the weatherstrip is and how much you need to move it out so it will seal but not bind. Then...depending on how far you move it out...you might need to cut a shim out of rubber so at the bottom of the 'B' pillar...where it has the plastic push in retainers...you can sue longer push in retainers and make it so the weatherstrip will not be under too much stress trying to be pulled back to the 'B' pillar.

NOW...I know you do not want to read this....but I have encountered many C4's that have been in accidents and when they were repaired...the main cab section and windshield frame are off and never corrected. SO one side will be tight as heck at the 'B' pillar...and the other side has a gap.

Lone Star Caliper is who is having the latex weatherstrip reproduced.

DUB

 

The gap is in the middle and just about the same on both sides, I was looking at the original weatherstrip on a low mileage 86 C4 at a car cruise this weekend and its weather strip was thicker going down the sides of the B-Piller.