Thanks again, Jack!

I'm a little confused here. I do have plans to get an overbored block in the future - is that what you're thinking of?

 

I was thinking you stated it had .030 pistons. Maybe that was some other poster. Sorry.

 

Okay, after doing some research it sounds like I need to replace the oil pump shaft. Correct me if I'm wrong. For that matter, correct anything that's wrong/missing/superfluous on my plan above.
Assuming I replace the shaft, will this one cut it?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...oil+pump+shaft

 

That's fine; I can see it being hard to keep track.

 

Can't help myself. Had to chime in. IMO You should use only a Melling pump and decide between the Big Block or Small Block High Pressure and High Vol pumps and install a new pick-up as outlined in 1 of these videos below. The old pick-up shouldn't be used. The new stuff can be used Later on the new engine. Watch all the videos and make sure u set pick up height to a min of 3/8 or you will loose pressure with the new set-up too.
The Melling Big Block Pump and new pick up is the way to go on the sbc along with welding a 3/8's nut under the pick up.
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...hp?f=54&t=1800
http://www.melling.com/Aftermarket/Tech-Tip-Videos

 

Just me but I would use the small block high volume pump for your engine. It is designed to fit your application and will just bolt in with no modifications necessary - torque it down and you will be good to go. You should prime the oil pump with engine oil before installation and you will be fine - that's what is in the oil pump everytime you shut the engine down. Others perhaps will recommend packing it with grease - either application will work.

Like cuda max says, be sure the pick-up is about 3/8 inch off the bottom of the oil pan.

It is somewhat popular to braze the pick-up tube to the oil pump casting but I have never done that. The factory has the pick-up tube pressed into the pump and it works just fine as long as you once again press it in very tightly into the replacement pump. This is the industry standard factory manufacturing practice and it works very well.

I use chassis grease as an assembly lube for the bearings - others will recommend special assembly lube as provided by whomever - either will be ok.

Regarding rod bearings, replace both the upper shell in the rod itself as well as the insert in the cap.

You will never get an exact consensus regarding proper procedures about what to do here because each individual has their own way to do things. There are many correct ways to this and many incorrect ways as well. When in doubt, follow the factory service manual.

My opinion is that GM folks are not stupid - even though I worked for the competition. LOL.

Good Luck.

Jake -

 

Thanks, I really do appreciate your feedback.
I did order a Melling HV pump, but not a big block one. Just so I know for the future, what's the advantage of a big block pump?
Do you have to bend the tube at all beforehand or does the 3/8 nut bend it as you put the pan back on?
Also, I'm not a fan of replacing things twice in a row. It seems to me like if I have to replace the pickup now I'll have to replace it again when I rebuild the motor from all of the stuff that gets in it when I flush the engine. Could I just soak the pickup in diesel, backflow some through it, and brush it a bit to clean it up or is a new one mandatory?
EDIT: Okay, I watched the Melling video. For $12 a screen sounds like a good investment.

 

Okay, thanks.
Oh yeah, I forgot to list the upper half of the rod bearing. Is there any trick to replacing them or is it fairly straightforward?

On the topic of HV pumps (I'm considering starting a thread about this) I've heard that they rob horsepower from the engine. Which makes sense to me - energy (horsepower) equals work times distance, so if it's pumping a larger volume of oil (equivalent of more distance in the formula) that's more power that it takes.
Does anyone have the number of horsepower that a HV pump uses compared to a regular one? I'm trying to decide if I want to keep the HV pump when I rebuild.

 

Pro tip I (well, my dad) figured out:
To remove the top half of the bearing from below, cut a strip of a 5-gallon bucket lid the width of the bearing and use that like a punch with a hammer to push the bearing out. Super easy.

 

Thats Great Thinking and Perfect

 

Thanks!
Now here's one problem to which we haven't figured out the answer yet:
3 of the main bearing cap bolts have long posts on them to hold the oil pan baffle. I can't find a socket deep enough to take them off. Is there an easy way to do this, or do I just have to find a really deep socket?

EDIT: I'm also having trouble getting the top half off of the front main bearing.

 

The bbc pump is best. It has the 3/4 inlet vs the 5/8 inlet on the sbc. Much taller and larger dia pump gears. 12 tooth on the bb vs I think 7 on the sm. Better cover with smoother radius feeding to the main cap. The std/std bb pump I think out flows the high vol/high pressure sb pump. I've seen some bb high vol/high pressure pumps at 40 to 50 psi hot at 900 rpm with 10w30 and go upwards of 100 psi hot at just 2000 rpm with .003 on the mains and thats with a tall oil filter in anything but a Fram. Which is really too high.
You really need to take the time and read this hole article and a lot of its sub links to understand everything about oil pumps and pick-ups and their proper installation and clearance and support. 3/8 is min 1/2 is best and welding a spacer on the pickup is a nifty trick so their is no way if it loosens up it will touch the bottom of the pan.
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...hp?f=54&t=1800

The push in pick-up tubes should only be pushed in once IMO, and never turned once in all the way. Never. If reused, it needs to be welded but it should be welded in the first place. So its position needs to be set before its seated all the way. Seating those tubes must be done just right or they will break shortly after causing a disaster and a lot of headaches. I've never used a stock pick-up, always threaded the 3/4 hole and used supports and a home cobbled open pick-up screen type with all the tubing threaded and locked.
They do cost power and cutting the pressure is always an option if the high vol is there with the right clearances and you are tearing into the motor a couple a times a yr. But with a Cam oiling priority design and crank and rods second. I don't mind the loss for the extra protection on any motor thats built to see 30,000 miles or more to go untoched

 

You can use 2 boxed wrenches like this to loosen
but u need the deep socket to torque it into place

 

Go with ur old man/pops and get it. Cherish it. Every single one of my tools has several memories and stories behind them. You'll remember that socket

 

Thanks, that link (and the links in it) were very informative. I guess you're right - the peace of mind is worth the power used by 25% or so more oil flow.

Hmm, neat trick. Any idea where I can get a socket that deep? I've tried Harbor Freight, O'Reilly's, and Tractor Supply.

I certainly will. Hopefully the quest to find a place that sells that socket is somewhat less memorable

 

Autozone and Advanced auto give away tools for a day free

 

Okay, I got my new bearings today. I think it's a good idea to plastigage all of them, but having to shim the bearing next to the one I plastigage is going to double the work. I've heard from various people that you can use a jack to lift the crank, but I'm not sure exactly how. I'm afraid I'll jack it from the wrong point or jack it too high putting stress on it.
Can anyone help me out with this? Also, I'm guessing I have to roll the top halves of the bearings in before I jack the crank?

EDIT: I was able to find several things saying to jack it on the counterweights. Do I have to move the jack each time to a counterweight next to the bearing I'm doing or can I just put it in the middle and leave it?

 

To remove the front bearing upper half: Remove the serp drive belt the belt tensioner is pulling the crank up putting pressure on the upper bearing shell..

Make a "T" shaped tool to roll the upper bearing shell out. Use a heavy cotter pin that will fit in the crank oil hole. Clamp the cotter pin in a vise with just the eyelet protruding.
With a hammer flatten the eyelet to form a "T". Work the pin with the hammer to insure it does not protrude out of the crank farther than the thickness of a bearing shell. Insert the pin in the crank oil hole, rotate the crank via the balancer bolt & roll the upper bearing out of the block.

Suggest not using grease on bearings motor oil is all you need.
Start up: I doubt that you have an oil priming tool so:
Fill the new oil filter with oil before install.
Remove the spark plugs & spin the engine with the starter until your gauge indicates pressure. Removing the spark plugs is optional I like to do it so that there is not any load placed on the bearings until they are fully oiled. If you choose not to remove the spark plugs remove the "BAT" wire @ the dist cap so the engine will not start.
Oil: Suggest Shell Rotella T 15-40.
Keep on truckin young man your doing fine.

BTW: You want the crank to hang when replacing the upper shells. Suggest jacking the crank up for each main bearing clearance check.

You can make a long socket. Use a whiz wheel/cut off tool & cut the socket in half across the diameter. Find a piece of black gas pipe the length required (cut the threads off) & have the 3 pieces welded together.

 

Dude- you are doing great. You are learning a lot and teaching me a lot- I know cars but never had an engine apart, I must admit.

 

Removing the serpentine belt (and the last bearing cap - thanks for the tip about linking two wrenches, cuda) did the trick. Thanks.
I find turning the crank to be a pain so my dad and I improvised with a strip of plastic and a hammer. Worked like a charm. Once I get a ratcheting breaker bar or some other easier way to turn the crank I'll try your way if I need to do this again.
Thanks for the tip for the spark plugs. These bearings are just a temporary fix and I'll be replacing them again when I rebuild so I won't pull the plugs, but I'll definitely disconnect the alternator.
I'd forgotten about filling the filter ahead of time - thanks.
How far do I need to jack up the crank? Just a little more after it touches the crank?
Hmm, interesting tip on the socket. I don't weld, but I have a friend that does so I might try that. I have one idea I'm going to try first.