Rich B.

My 1986 Vette was infested with chipmunks several years ago. They nested behind the passenger crash pad in the dashboard and ate quite a few wires/modules.

I've replaced/spliced in new wiring, but the old wires were twisted multiple strand copper and were/are patina covered. I tried light sanding the pataina off and soldering but the new connections are poor. I'm getting intermittent conductivity.

What do you electronic wizards use to chemically clean the old wiring to dissolve the patina??? Flux doesn't take it off. GM advises against crimping.

I'm thinking there is probably an acid that dissolves copper oxide but I have no idea what commercial product would contain it.

Thank you for your help!

--Rich B.

rocco16

Acid-core solder will do the job, but you must remove ALL the acid residue before insulating the joint. Myself, it's a big risk.

You might try trimming the old wire back until you hit clean copper. You may lose several inches on each wire, but you're putting new splices in anyway....

Good luck and let us know how it went.

george4

Trimming back is probably best. I have become a convert to crimping. A ratcheting crimper with properly sized terminals and adhesive lined shrink tubing is hard to beat.

ToniJ1960

If its stranded its a little more difficult to do.

What I do is, twist the strands together and scrape lightly with a sharp knife blade

It will untwist as you do this. Work around in a circle.

Flatten the strands and scrape again both sides,lightly and carefully take your time. Maybe retwist and reflatten again.

Twist again, scrape again lightly.

Should be clean enough for a decent joint without any additional rosin.

If not rinse and repeat. Wouldnt hurt to spray it with contact cleaner between stages.

Cliff Harris

Lots of flux will clean off the oxide. You really need a bottle of flux. The minimal amount of flux inside the solder isn't enough.

I have used acid flux, but I'm a trained professional ;-). I only use it if absolutely nothing else will work.

I realized recently that I have been soldering for over 50 years (started when I was 13).

jake corvette

I have had some success with plumbers flux - the kind used for copper pipes. Use the flux paste for leaded solder. This might be an acid flux so like Cliff says – clean everything really good afterward or corrosion will occur. Only used this approach as a last resort.

Tried Oatey brand flux for no-lead solder and it did nothing.

The crimp connectors with the adhesive on the inside of the shrink tube have gotten great reviews for the last many years – but not too familiar with them since I solder everything – have for decades, guess that’s why I still do –

The factory crimps almost everything, so….

Jake -

ToniJ1960

Im not at 50 years of soldering yet, just over 40. Give what I said a try on one anyway. I even clean battery cable that way before I put them into clamps.

Rich B.

The wires are the loom wires right adjacent to the VATS module. The chipmunks ate the insulation, the copper wires, and two of the modules. The wire is multi-strand, twisted, and 28+ years old. It's got a dark [almost black] coating of patina as far back as i can cut it, to the point I can't reach it anymore. (Billy Barty couldn't reach it now).

The wire is also embrittled. It won't take much more handling. Untwisting and scraping each strand is no longer practical.

My flux is a paste containing Zinc chloride. My solder is 50/50 solid core. No problems with good wire.

I may be able to fill a thimble with 'solution' and dip the wire ends; rinse & solder. I was initially concerned about the insulation 'wicking up' the 'solution' and rinse and corroding, but as I'm of an advanced age, I doubt if I'll ever see any corrosion - that'll be my executor's problem.

Thank You for all your replies, gentlemen and lady! I will be trying a commercial cleansing solution later this afternoon.

P.S. - I'm also at the 50 years age of 'soldering'. If you recall the Rick Brant science/detective books of the '50's/'60's, I used to make some of the projects described in those boys novels.

rocco16

This is very good advice, some I had forgotten about. As flux absorbs oxides, it's effectiveness diminishes. The flux must then be replaced with fresh flux. Lots of oxide means lots of flux. Get yourself a big tube/jar of rosin flux and use it copiously.

Rich B.

Here's a pic of where I'm working. There's usually 3 or 4 modules in here...Not much room to stretch out the wires...

(Red module is Baker VATS bypass module).

2nd pic is from a forum member who suggested 'Tarn-X', a commercial oxide remover...I vaguely recall the TV ads...But, surprisingly, it works! Penny on right was half-dipped for 1 second; penny on left is un-dipped 'control'...

rocco16

Tarn-X contains acid. Take the same precautions you would in using acid fluxes when you solder electrical connections.

jimg's'93

If a solder joint becomes the weakest link in a circuit, and you don't seem all too worried about what your executor is saddled with, why not crimp? I've always had great luck with the ratcheting crimpers and it won't reduce your wire length so much.

There are also plenty of solutions for splicing and tapping into existing wiring that might make your job a whole lot easier and possibly easier to repair. No doubt you're aware of these options -

http://www.delcity.net/store/Wire-Co...Quick-Splices/


Just my 2-cents!

HlhnEast

LA-CO plumbers flux works great. Clean up is required.