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Ok so i bought a noid light. I have pressure at the rail, all the injectors are firing, i have spark, my timing is correct and has been confirmed several times. I am CONVINCED that this is a mechanical problem. Either timing chain or valve train.
Ok so i bought a noid light. I have pressure at the rail, all the injectors are firing, i have spark, my timing is correct and has been confirmed several times. I am CONVINCED that this is a mechanical problem. Either timing chain or valve train.
I am kind of scared to say yes, but not jumping to conclusions.
When i hold my foot to the floor it will give me pops through the intake and sometimes a backfire out the exhaust. It backfires so loud from the exhaust my neighbor actually came over to see what was going on.
When i hold my foot to the floor it will give me pops through the intake and sometimes a backfire out the exhaust. It backfires so loud from the exhaust my neighbor actually came over to see what was going on.
ok if you jumped timing it could do all that stuff. verify that TDC and distributor agree. being a mechanic also even though a ford (will forgive you) I'll take it the distributor is very close to reinstalled fairly close to the clock position it came out at.
ok if you jumped timing it could do all that stuff. verify that TDC and distributor agree. being a mechanic also even though a ford (will forgive you) I'll take it the distributor is very close to reinstalled fairly close to the clock position it came out at.
reestablish your TDC and see
Tdc was verified several times. Cylinder 1 (all the way at the front on the drivers side) at tdc with timing mark lined up and rotor pointing at cylinder 1 on the cap.
Tdc was verified several times. Cylinder 1 (all the way at the front on the drivers side) at tdc with timing mark lined up and rotor pointing at cylinder 1 on the cap.
this is going to sound a bit odd take a medium sized screwdriver and give the mass air flow sensor (black sensor between air cleaner a throttle body)a bit of a smack not to hard, I have been told the maf is a bit like light bulb when the filament gets tired give it a tap
this is going to sound a bit odd take a medium sized screwdriver and give the mass air flow sensor (black sensor between air cleaner a throttle body)a bit of a smack not to hard, I have been told the maf is a bit like light bulb when the filament gets tired give it a tap
I tried unplugging the maf it didnt change anything. Didnt try tapping it. Didnt really have any reason for unplugging it. I was basically guessing.
I tried unplugging the maf it didnt change anything. Didnt try tapping it. Didnt really have any reason for unplugging it. I was basically guessing.
no need to unplug it but I am running out of things and I don't have the manual, and I am also starting to suspect the ECM, or 1 of other many things In the middle. but I would love to know what it is and I am going to ask some of my friends what they think.
no need to unplug it but I am running out of things and I don't have the manual, and I am also starting to suspect the ECM, or 1 of other many things In the middle. but I would love to know what it is and I am going to ask some of my friends what they think.
Ok i really appreciate the help so far. Im gonna do a compression check. I have a really good feeling its the timing chain.
Heres the rest of the compression readings. It took quite a few seconds of cranking before it stopped increasing. Sometimes i could only get about 120 psi but if i stopped for a moment and bumped it again it would jump to 130-135.
Heres the rest of the compression readings. It took quite a few seconds of cranking before it stopped increasing. Sometimes i could only get about 120 psi but if i stopped for a moment and bumped it again it would jump to 130-135.
these numbers are fairly consistent,
much earlier it was established that the distributor was replaced with cap and so on, here is the question did you assemble the cap? under coil there is a stamped steel plate that sometimes needs to be removed from old and installed on new.
these numbers are fairly consistent,
much earlier it was established that the distributor was replaced with cap and so on, here is the question did you assemble the cap? under coil there is a stamped steel plate that sometimes needs to be removed from old and installed on new.
Coil cap assembly came from hypertech as one unit. I tried swapping in the old cap it didnt change anything. Theres a rubber washer, a pin, and a spring under the coil. Not sure what stamped steal plate your referring to.
You have fuel pressure, you have a good spark,injectors are pulsing,timing is good, no way this car should't fire up... Damn do you put that dizzy the right way in? Sure is the base timing good? Wires ? Mismatched?once i was stranded by my 85,i had 12 v at dizzy but no spark it was the ignition module that was gone un 1k miles... Cheap quality dynaspark from Ecklers
Last edited by tunedport85inject; Sep 9, 2014 at 10:21 AM.
coil cap assembly came from hypertech as one unit. I tried swapping in the old cap it didnt change anything. Theres a rubber washer, a pin, and a spring under the coil. Not sure what stamped steal plate your referring to.
go to a search browser, put in gm hei cap photos look at the pictures. There is a steel piece about 4" long it goes from the plug area on top and is secured under the coil. WITH OUT IT IM PRETTY SURE NO BOOM or at least a weak spark