Backfired and stopped running
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Backfired and stopped running
Was driving home today and my 89 started to vibrate pretty bad and then backfired and died. It will turn over but will not start. I pushed the shrader valve on the fuel rail and gas kind of just gurgled out. I can hear the fuel pump running but its very quiet. Gonna throw a fuel pressure gauge on it tomorrow. Just did new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pcv valve, air filter, basic tune up. The cap/rotor/coil combo i used was a hypertech so its possible i cooked that coil. Just venting and looking for some more ideas.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
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From: New Port Richey FL
Have you been having heavy rains in your area lately, just want to take 1 thing out of the equation, I have seen the drain by the fuel tank be clogged or overwhelmed in heavy rains and tanks pretty much drowned. the cars would run fairly well and go much the way you described. so if you have a old R-12 Freon hose at hand I would pull a sample from fuel rail or drain off some from the tank/fuel filter
Last edited by s carter; Aug 30, 2014 at 06:44 PM.
Thread Starter
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Have you been having heavy rains in your area lately, just want to take 1 thing out of the equation, I have seen the drain by the fuel tank be clogged or overwhelmed in heavy rains and tanks pretty much drowned. the cars would run fairly well and go much the way you described. so if you have a old R-12 Freon hose at hand I would pull a sample from fuel rail or drain off some from the tank/fuel filter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
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From: New Port Richey FL
you didn't mention that the car had no spark, yes you replaced the world. but no on ignition modular or pick up coil
Last edited by s carter; Aug 30, 2014 at 07:54 PM.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
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From: New Port Richey FL
if you do replace module make shore you use the dielectric grease they should provide
Last edited by s carter; Aug 30, 2014 at 08:12 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
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From: New Port Richey FL
can say with pretty much 100% confidence that is a dead component
you can rebuild your distributor for around $60 or replace with an Accel. for around $130. + core
Last edited by s carter; Aug 30, 2014 at 10:50 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Sounds like its gonna be an accel. Summit? Jegs? Ebay? I guess i gotta send them the old dist
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
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From: New Port Richey FL
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http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/m20ProductDisplayView?catalogId=10002&la ngId=-1&productId=45296&storeId=10001 doesnt look like it asks for a core. Too bad i already bought a cap and rotor. Looks like I'll have an extra
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
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From: New Port Richey FL
Do you have a white crusty scale or oil inside the distributor down by the pick up coil, if you have a lot of it definitely replace the distributor because it usually shows excessive wear in the bushing a seal
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Anaheim CA
The ignition module gets VERY hot and it needs all the help it can get. It has a thermal protection circuit in it and it will shut down if it gets too hot.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
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From: New Port Richey FL
yes I knew it was thermal grease just feel off course, use what they give if its not there find it
Last edited by s carter; Aug 31, 2014 at 10:04 AM.
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I didnt see anything like that. I could take a closer look but im probably gonna replace the whole thing rather than mess with trying to repair the old one.
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I replaced the distributor and now i have spark but i suspect that it is weak. Car still does not start. I sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it burps. I put a volt meter on one of the injectors and nothing happened when i turned it over. In fact it actually gave me a slight negative reading. When i ohm out the injector connection it gives me 2 ohms which is almost a direct short. At a total loss.
Last edited by octaneforce; Sep 6, 2014 at 04:21 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,891
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From: New Port Richey FL
I replaced the distributor and now i have spark but i suspect that it is weak. Car still does not start. I sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it burps. I put a volt meter on one of the injectors and nothing happened when i turned it over. In fact it actually gave me a slight negative reading. When i ohm out the injector connection it gives me 2 ohms which is almost a direct short. At a total loss.
a volt meter is not the right tool for testing the injector lines for power, what you need is a noid light its LED light for testing inj. power system.
before going crazy with other tests with all the no spark problems, DO a clear flood mode its simple push your gas pedal to the floor keep it there crank engine if your totally loaded up the car should cough and fart a bit and come to life
OK so we have fuel pressure (earlier in post) we now have spark (New) Distributor
I am pretty sure your confident that the distributor is not in way out.
Disconnect the Ign. module conn. and check for voltage on Pink and black wire (terminal A) to test positive circuit
now connect test light to positive post of Battery probe terminal C to check ground of distributor
check pulse voltage signal
if you don't have a factory service manual which is the best, Hays has a fairly good one, I was looking at one earlier today at the store it has a basic step by step on your problem.
only problem is you have just about hit all the tests they give
Last edited by s carter; Sep 6, 2014 at 07:08 PM.
Thread Starter
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a volt meter is not the right tool for testing the injector lines for power, what you need is a noid light its LED light for testing inj. power system.
before going crazy with other tests with all the no spark problems, DO a clear flood mode its simple push your gas pedal to the floor keep it there crank engine if your totally loaded up the car should cough and fart a bit and come to life
OK so we have fuel pressure (earlier in post) we now have spark (New) Distributor
I am pretty sure your confident that the distributor is not in way out.
Disconnect the Ign. module conn. and check for voltage on Pink and black wire (terminal A) to test positive circuit
now connect test light to positive post of Battery probe terminal C to check ground of distributor
check pulse voltage signal
if you don't have a factory service manual which is the best, Hays has a fairly good one, I was looking at one earlier today at the store it has a basic step by step on your problem.
only problem is you have just about hit all the tests they give
before going crazy with other tests with all the no spark problems, DO a clear flood mode its simple push your gas pedal to the floor keep it there crank engine if your totally loaded up the car should cough and fart a bit and come to life
OK so we have fuel pressure (earlier in post) we now have spark (New) Distributor
I am pretty sure your confident that the distributor is not in way out.
Disconnect the Ign. module conn. and check for voltage on Pink and black wire (terminal A) to test positive circuit
now connect test light to positive post of Battery probe terminal C to check ground of distributor
check pulse voltage signal
if you don't have a factory service manual which is the best, Hays has a fairly good one, I was looking at one earlier today at the store it has a basic step by step on your problem.
only problem is you have just about hit all the tests they give
Pulse voltage signal?
I have a factory service manual. It sorta puts me in the right direction but as for fuel diagnosis its almost usless. Im not familiar with all the language.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,891
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From: New Port Richey FL