I'll post a pic of the wetness. Hold up

 

 

Hi 1993C4LT1,

I believe that is the assemble lube that they put on the seal and bearing.
I don't think it is anything to worry about. You could pull the cap and see how it looks inside.

Thank you for your business and if you have anymore concerns let me know.

Christian

 

Awesome! Alright, I'll pull the cap.

 

While your in there, some like the add a little loctite to the two screws that hold the rotor on for added insurance. Not sure if its necessary but that is what I have read.

Christian

 

I would install it and not think twice about it. I have to 'say'...in my opoinion... it is not water....becasue....if it were water...there would be no witness marks of where it was 'wet'....and it would have dried up.

DUB

 

I was about to install the opti. but I noticed the bearing comes out very easily. on the opti I pulled out, it doesn't do that. Is that normal?

 

I have never had that bearing come out and I have replaced numerous Opti-Spark distributors. The bearing should not come out where your splined shaft slides into it and indexes to the portion of the Opti-spark inside.

DUB

 

There we go, splined shaft. That is what I am talking about. I've only done two opti's, before this one. Never had this happen either. Thanks Dub I'll be returning it.

 

Hi,
Is the the part you are talking about? It is normal to be able to
pull it out.

Thanks
Christian

 

That's weird, but since Steven is running the AIP opti, I'll put it in. I wonder why they made it this way?

 

Brandon,

I have responded to your PM--Here it is-Mine was black too. But I did use the MSD Cap/Rotor (which is fully vented). I have read your post. The bearing you mention-Is it the splined piece that goes into the cam/opti. If yes this is removable. So far my opti from them is okay. I would not be concerned with the oil.

Good luck.
Steve

 

Thanks

 

AS shown in an above post...the splined shaft is made to come out.
And hopefully you are aware that this splined shaft can only go in ONE WAY ONLY when you go and index it on the engine.

DO NOT----REPEAT------DO NOT force the Opti-spark on the engine or use its mounting bolts to pull it flush to the block area.

And not meaning to step on your toes...but when I do this type with the splined shaft. I remove the splined shaft form the Opti-spark and get it to slide into the engine area. Then... I pay very careful attention to where the indexing notch is in the splinded shaft. So I know where I need to rotate the splined shaft when I put it back into the Opti-spark. That way....I can slide it into place and the Opti-spark will seat against the block with very little to no effort.

If the Opti-spark does not seat flush BY HAND...you are not right and try it again.

The reason I am writing this is because I had a customer who did his own Opti-spark swap. And the car did not run right afterwards....he brought it to me to figure out and I found that he was off one tooth on the splined shaft because he forced it....even though he said he didn't...the facts proved otherwise.

DUB

 

Good advise here.

Steve

 

What I've done on the previous opti jobs, I just positioned the tooth same way the bad opti came out. But still, thanks for the heads up

 

At least you know about the notch to special tooth. Many people do not and do not realize that the splined shaft MUST be installed in a specific position so the engine can be in correct time.

DUB

 

I have one in my 95 very happy. car has never ran better

 

Do you have a code h16? I just got my car back on the roads with this opti, and after deleting code h16, it came back. Car seems to run fine though.

 

No codes I did a shortblock swap and snapped off the coil wire nipple on the gm, was skeptical with this unit but car runs better then with the old gm one...