C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Frame question..

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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 08:12 PM
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Default Frame question..

This is going to sound really odd sorry
... Want to see if anyone knows if there is a steel frame under the c4? I would like to build a actual crossmember for the transmission. I put a built 385 and a turbo 400 transmission in and when I put it in gear the transmission drops and hits the exhaust.. If it had a crossmember it shouldn't drop. But right now it just has the c beam..
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 10:13 PM
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just the cbeam.

why is your tranny dropping? motor mounts?

broken bolts in the cbeam?
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 10:27 PM
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I had to make a bracket for the th400 and it drops about 1.5-2 inches. Good mounts and new bolts..
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 10:57 PM
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How far do they normally go down when put in gear? I guess I never paid attention with the 700r4
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 11:33 PM
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time energy money; anything can be fabbed
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 11:48 PM
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My exact thoughts... I was thinking maybe because the turbo 400 is a heavier transmission than the 700r4 is why it drops a bit more.. I don't know. I think I would have to cut some of the floorboard out to get a crossmember in and it looks like there actually are frame rails on the out sides
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 12:34 AM
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THe C4 does have a steel frame and there are frame rails along the outer edge -the rockers.





There is no reason, however, that a properly adapted tailshaft housing, and properly installed C-beam shouldn't very easily handle those loads. The C-beam is strong enough to lift the front of the car off the ground during a hard launch (modified engine, obviously), so the weight of the T-400 is insignificant to the C-beam. I'd get under the car and see what is allowing that movement to occur, then fix it.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 12:39 AM
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How far should it move when put inin gear? And what should I look for to be loose or broke? I didn't notice anything when I installed it...
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 08:52 AM
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Double checked the rear bolts and the motor mounts.. All good. I made a bracket from the original transmission mount to the lower c beam bolts and it's all bolted there. Would that cause an issue? I didn't use the top holes on the c beam.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevrolet12
Double checked the rear bolts and the motor mounts.. All good. I made a bracket from the original transmission mount to the lower c beam bolts and it's all bolted there. Would that cause an issue? I didn't use the top holes on the c beam.
Key words here, The C-beam is just that and requires the bolt thru to work correctly.


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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevrolet12
How far should it move when put inin gear? And what should I look for to be loose or broke? I didn't notice anything when I installed it...
It shouldn't really move at all. What ever the deflection in rubber mounting bushings, basically.

Also, when you put it in gear, the tq reaction of the diff housing is going to want to lift the tail end of the trans UP....not push it down. Putting it in reverse would want to push the trans down.

Can you out the car up on a lift or jack stands, set the park brake and have someone shift from neutral to gear/reverse while you lay underneath and watch the diff, c-beam, and trans?
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 10:06 AM
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That may be correct... It may be pushing it up in forward gears... Down in reverse.. I think I just looked at it in reverse.. Sorry
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevrolet12
I made a bracket from the original transmission mount to the lower c beam bolts and it's all bolted there. Would that cause an issue? I didn't use the top holes on the c beam.
WeGone is right. That is 100% your issues. Look at how the C-beam works; it is strong in a vertical plane...like an I-beam under a bridge. It absolutely requires the top and bottom bolts in order to provide the strength and rigidity that it was designed to provide. Only bolting to the top OR bottom, will simply result in bending of the edge or lip, of the C-beam.

A bit of reading for you: C-Beam Tech
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 10:20 AM
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Ok I totally understand that. Now when I had a buddy make the mount he cut the top corner to clear the tail housing.. Dumb Idea. I agree. So now either I need a new c beam or could I get a solid piece of steel and make a crossmember and leave what's left of the c beam bolted.. Just to strengthen the mess?
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 10:54 AM
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I'd get a new C-beam, if it were me; it's simple clean, effective and light weight.

If you do a x-member for the trans tail, you still need the C-beam to manage the reactive tq of the diff. OR you need to fab another steel x-member to support the nose of the diff. Bear in mind the strength required there; w/a stock engine, you're making ~350 tq, x first gear ratio (2.7:1) x rear ratio (~3:1). 350x2.7x3=2835 lb-ft of torque, that the diff housing is exerting on the frame (or C-beam, if installed). So if you fab an X-member for the diff nose, it''s got to be pretty stout.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 10:59 AM
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Yea my new engine is about 550 hp... If I leave the c beam like it is and just add the crossmember basically sandwich the c beam between the crossmember and transmission mount do you think it would work?
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 11:03 AM
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Maybe this will give you some ideas

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...00-c-beam.html
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To Frame question..

Old Jun 3, 2015 | 11:15 AM
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Another option if you are going to fab a transmission cross-member would be to also make something along the line of the torque arm the f-bodys use.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 11:27 AM
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That's basically what the C-beam is; a tq arm...but it also hold the trans too. I think a cross member w/ the C-beam in there would work.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 11:35 AM
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Tom, I was meaning leaving the c beam the way it is how I only have the lower two mounted to the transmission mount and make a crossmember and run it under the c beam and use longer bolts to go through the crossmember and c beam bracket that's mounted to the transmission.. I'm just trying to make sure I'm explaining it correctly. Sorry
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