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ran a 2500 stall Vigilante in my grand national with no loss of street ability. Make sure you don't buy a cheap convertor though. If I remember right from back in the 90s when I had my first c4 lt1 the performance guys of the day recommended a 2200 stall for a good upgrade on a stock car. Might be a bit loose for your gears but if you insist on doing the convertor first it will probably be liveable until you do a gear swap.
Depends. Why must he do it that way? Why can't he get the converter that is RIGHT for his application today and within 2 years, get them to do a free re-stall when he changes the gears? At which time, it is about that time to dump the pan and change the oil.
I agree with what you stated above BUT in my view he should stop everything!
You know the 3.07 gear was a $50.00 performance option with the LT1 and my understanding is that in the Dana36 it is a straight swap between the 2.73 gear and the 3.07.
You are going to get more bang for the buck by swapping just the rear gear than you are with your cam. I would wait on the cam and everything else until you swap the gear for the 3.07 from between 40 mph and 90 mph you are going to feel like you went for a 6 cylinder to a V8.
Just my $.02
BTW I had a Yank 3200 put into my 95 LT1 about 50,000 miles ago. It makes the car a blast to drive and there are no streetablity issues what so ever. This car was used as my DD for years in stop and go daily driving with no problem. I do not race the car.
Last edited by Mr. Peabody; Jan 25, 2016 at 10:08 AM.
2.59 is a hwy cruising gear. If you plan to street the car you can get thick gears for your d36, but it is smarter to spend 1k+ on a d44 which will be about the same in the end, but d44 is much stronger.
surely could do that if he didn't mind pulling the tranny again.Smart move would be to do the gears first and do the converter once.
Originally Posted by aklim
Depends. Why must he do it that way? Why can't he get the converter that is RIGHT for his application today and within 2 years, get them to do a free re-stall when he changes the gears? At which time, it is about that time to dump the pan and change the oil.
surely could do that if he didn't mind pulling the tranny again.Smart move would be to do the gears first and do the converter once.
Reason I thought of doing that is because at this point, we can only estimate what the stall should be. He might not like the stall speed after all is said and done or his mods might change. But you are right. It would be easier if he didn't start any other mods after that which might influence choice of stall speed. I'd probably do it your way if I was sure what I was going to do at the end of the day.
You probably have to get it dyno tuned. Still, I wouldn't like to use the Summit TC. Exactly why did you choose that over the Vigilante? You either get a 2000, 2600 or 3000 stall. Take it or leave it. Warranty? 1 year unless racing.
I'd use the Vigilante for the simple reason that they will help you select your TC. You could have 2900 or 2800 or 2500 stall if you decide. YOU pick the stall and not them. Also, they have a 5 year warranty. But lets say you got the 2800 stall and didn't like it. Again, they have that covered. You get 1 free restall within 2 years of your purchase. So what if your trans grenades within 2 years? They will cut apart the thing and clean it as part of the "restall" within 2 years for free.
The Summit Racing brand is cheap because it's wanting like most cheap things are.
I got prices for the Vigilante convertor its like $895. I thought was a little high. Because I think your not drag racing it all the time?? Check into tci they are more reasonable. The guy I talked to said it has a warranty also a free adjustment if your not happy with the stall. One thing the guys are not telling you. You may not be able to run on pump gas with your set up. Because I have a Vega with a 427 with 14 to1 compression I like to take it on the street. It bucks spits it just don't want to run on pump. Just FYI. Also watch your Valve clearances. You don't want your valves to say hello to the piston. Good luck
I got prices for the Vigilante convertor its like $895. I thought was a little high. Because I think your not drag racing it all the time?? Check into tci they are more reasonable. The guy I talked to said it has a warranty also a free adjustment if your not happy with the stall. One thing the guys are not telling you. You may not be able to run on pump gas with your set up. Because I have a Vega with a 427 with 14 to1 compression I like to take it on the street. It bucks spits it just don't want to run on pump. Just FYI. Also watch your Valve clearances. You don't want your valves to say hello to the piston. Good luck
What has racing got to do with it? I wish people would really stop using the "NOT RACING" euphemism and just go with "CHEAP". Spend the money to build the car and cheap out on the TC?
TCI® Automotive, LLC warrants that all of its products are free from defects in material and workmanship, for a period of 30 days on Racing equipment and a period of 90 days on Street/Strip equipment. The warranty period begins from the date of purchase. We recommend that you keep your invoice or receipt because proof of purchase date is required. This limited warranty shall only cover the original purchaser.
Precision Industries Warranty & Stall Changes
Precision Industries warrants that each torque converter manufactured or sold by Precision Industries will be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use for a period of 60 months (five years). The 5 Year Warranty is in effect for all converters purchased from 1/1/11 and later. Any converter purchased prior to that date comes with the original 2 Year Warranty. Precision Industries' sole obligation under this warranty shall be to repair or replace, at its option, the defective converter at no charge to the customer. Under no circumstance will Precision Industries be liable for any oil, towing, labor or rental vehicle charges.
As a condition of this warranty the customer must return any allegedly defective product, freight prepaid to Precision Industries, 120 Independence Drive, Whiteville, TN 38075, accompanied by a packing slip indicating the shipper and the contact name, telephone number and the reason for the return. THIS WARRANTY DOES NOT APPLY TO UNSATISFACTORY PRODUCT PERFORMANCE WHICH IS ATTRIBUTED IN WHOLE OR IN PART, TO ANY FACTOR,CONDITION OR CIRCUMSTANCE OTHER THAN DEFECTS IN MATERIAL OR WORKMANSHIP OR PRODUCTS ALTERED OR REPAIRED BY THE CUSTOMER OR THIRD PARTY. Without limiting the foregoing, this warranty shall be null and void if repair or replacement is required because of improper installation, accident, physical or electrical stress, neglect, misuse or any other cause other than the ordinary and intended use for which the product was designed. This warranty expressly does not cover loss or injury from the use of the product.
Stall Changes
If you would like to take advantage of the free stall change offer (as long as it is within the first 2 years from date of purchase) please fill out the printable PDF (click here) and enclose a copy with the converter. Make certain you drain as much oil out of the converter as possible AND cap it off so it will not leak. Package it properly; our preferred method of shipping is UPS (we do not prefer the US Post Office) and put insurance on it.
Well, you guys got me to thinking, and have second thoughts...but my tranny is all ready to drop tonight, it got to late last night. It's just being held up by the trans jack. I bought a street edge 3000 lock up converter. I have 3.07 diff. Posts are all over the board on the topic of converters. I guess I'll see. Also installing tranny cooler. Then my heads go off to Lloyd Elliott. I'm going with LE2. Other mods I'm making are 227/235
.575/.579 110 LSA cam.
Comp 1618-1.6 full roller rockers, Comp 7608 pushrods, Comp 850 lifters, 52mmTB, bosch III 32" injectors, Taylor wires, probably change opti with one from Sac City while I'm in there. Oh yeah, I have TPIS headers and full dual exhaust ready to go. Also, AIR and EGR delete. I will try PCM 4 less to see how that goes. This is not a daily driver, so I'll be taking my time. I'll post my results and impressions when complete. I figure at least a couple of months. I've been so confused and all over the board with what mods I'm doing. I appreciate all the advice, criticism, etc. Maybe I'll end up changing out gears from 3.07s, but I want to see how it runs first. Gary
What has racing got to do with it? I wish people would really stop using the "NOT RACING" euphemism and just go with "CHEAP". Spend the money to build the car and cheap out on the TC?
J BAG.
Maybe the guy don't have a lot of money. Maybe the guy likes to take his car to the track once in awhile. I do. I could care less what he buys. I was giving him another option. That's All. I was trying to help the guy out. Maybe you should try to do the same. Why would you put a big cam and headers in a car if you not going to use it once a while. Just to be a, pretender just like you. Your probably scared to death of your car. Guy's like you **** me off you offer your opinion. Someone else gives you them Thurs and you get mad. GET A LIFE !! DUMB Azz
Maybe the guy don't have a lot of money. Maybe the guy likes to take his car to the track once in awhile. I do. I could care less what he buys. I was giving him another option. That's All. I was trying to help the guy out. Maybe you should try to do the same.
Why would you put a big cam and headers in a car if you not going to use it once a while. Just to be a, pretender just like you. Your probably scared to death of your car. Guy's like you **** me off you offer your opinion. Someone else gives you them Thurs and you get mad. GET A LIFE !! DUMB Azz
Yes, Mr Pot. I, Mr Kettle know I am black.
Good point. Most of us have a fixed amount to spend. Hence, spend it wisely was what I was advocating. Buying cheap today and spending way more tomorrow to fix it is probably about as sensible as buying Chinese crap from Wal*Mart today and buying it again tomorrow. That is my opinion, which is as valid as yours.
I didn't say that. Why don't you think carefully before you write something? Punctuation and understanding the difference between "your" and "you're" helps. It might make me take your opinion more seriously if I thought you were a dispensing advice as a qualified therapist as opposed to an alumni of Ghetto High. FYI, I'm not scared of any car. I respect the abilities of the vehicle and my own assessment of my driving abilities. I dial it down so that there is room for error. Nice try. If you get into a decent college and study Psychology, it might make your "diagnosis" a little more accurate.
Good point. Most of us have a fixed amount to spend. Hence, spend it wisely was what I was advocating. Buying cheap today and spending way more tomorrow to fix it is probably about as sensible as buying Chinese crap from Wal*Mart today and buying it again tomorrow. That is my opinion, which is as valid as yours.
I didn't say that. Why don't you think carefully before you write something? Punctuation and understanding the difference between "your" and "you're" helps. It might make me take your opinion more seriously if I thought you were a dispensing advice as a qualified therapist as opposed to an alumni of Ghetto High. FYI, I'm not scared of any car. I respect the abilities of the vehicle and my own assessment of my driving abilities. I dial it down so that there is room for error. Nice try. If you get into a decent college and study Psychology, it might make your "diagnosis" a little more accurate.
Buddy I don't care if you're black. I don't care if your blue with white polka dots. I'm not prejudiced. Let me ask you this what does your race have to do with it. ??? Why does it always have to be the race card?? Are you kidding me. You just made an AZZ out of yourself!! Like I said All's I was trying to do is help this guy out. Give him a different idea. You mite want to read My post then yours again. See how nasty You were. You tell me anywhere where I said anything about Your race or are you being black. Then if your a man you will apologize then we can move on. When you said about race cars. I have a raceecar it's a 72 Vega fast back not black. with a 427 running high 8's. In the 1/4 mile. Because of the stress put on the car and the parts an the mile an hour . This were I agree with you. This is the car I don't and can't cut corners on. But a little street car yes you don't have to put big dollar parts into.
Last edited by drag racer 9; Feb 1, 2016 at 11:12 PM.
Buddy I don't care if you're black. I don't care if your blue with white polka dots. I'm not prejudiced. Let me ask you this what does your race have to do with it. ??? Why does it always have to be the race card?? Are you kidding me. You just made an AZZ out of yourself!! Like I said All's I was trying to do is help this guy out. Give him a different idea. You mite want to read My post then yours again. See how nasty You were. You tell me anywhere where I said anything about Your race or are you being black. Then if your a man you will apologize then we can move on
“Tact is the ability to tell someone to go to hell in such a way that they look forward to the trip.”
― Winston S. Churchill
Let me be just as blunt. The idea of buying a cheap item and mate to something better has been tried before. I bought TFS heads when they were emerging and was on their wait list. They were cheaper than AFR and their specs looked close enough. I mean, what could go wrong? I didn't buy Lingenfelter's massaged L98. Just the stouter short block and saved a few bucks on the heads. QC was bad on the left and all valves wobbled. Found this out at the "motor AUTOPSY". Broken valve spring, piston and valve kissed. Broken piston fragment bounced around the cylinder and scored the bore. Good thing I saved some money on the heads. All the savings AND THEN SOME went to buying a new short block, pay for R&R, etc. If you have time, I have many other stories like that before I eventually learned the lesson. Moral of the story is that things are cheap because they are wanting in some way, shape or form.
“Tact is the ability to tell someone to go to hell in such a way that they look forward to the trip.”
― Winston S. Churchill
Let me be just as blunt. The idea of buying a cheap item and mate to something better has been tried before. I bought TFS heads when they were emerging and was on their wait list. They were cheaper than AFR and their specs looked close enough. I mean, what could go wrong? I didn't buy Lingenfelter's massaged L98. Just the stouter short block and saved a few bucks on the heads. QC was bad on the left and all valves wobbled. Found this out at the "motor AUTOPSY". Broken valve spring, piston and valve kissed. Broken piston fragment bounced around the cylinder and scored the bore. Good thing I saved some money on the heads. All the savings AND THEN SOME went to buying a new short block, pay for R&R, etc. If you have time, I have many other stories like that before I eventually learned the lesson. Moral of the story is that things are cheap because they are wanting in some way, shape or form.
Buddy I go drag racing a whole lot. You smoke a Trans that's not to bad. But when you bang a motor big bucks. But you get drag racing in your blood it's very hard to get it out. Matter of fact I'm getting really to order a cam.
Maybe someone can learn from my mistake. There are four ground wires bolted to the lower driver's side transmission housing bolt. I knew they were corroded. I used penetrating oil several times. However, I still ended up breaking them. UGH! Well, transmission is down, converter is in. Hopefully tonight I can get the wires soldered and shrink wrapped and install the transmission. If I use dielectric on them when I reinstall will this prevent this from happening again? Gary
Buddy I go drag racing a whole lot. You smoke a Trans that's not to bad. But when you bang a motor big bucks. But you get drag racing in your blood it's very hard to get it out. Matter of fact I'm getting really to order a cam.
I go once in a while since it is about a 2 hours away. Smoking a trans or rear end or motor means renting a car to get home, get the truck, rent a trailer, go get the car onto the trailer and bring it back then send it for fixing since I don't have the facilities to do a rear end, trans or engine. I think we both know how much the shop loves to have your car sit there for the next month or two till the rebuilt item comes.
My problem is that most times I cut a corner on an item, it comes back to bite me in spades. Kinda why I came to the realization that if something is too cheap, say more than 20% under average I should walk unless there is a legit reason. I've had good and expensive, cheap and lousy, expensive and lousy but never good and cheap.
Maybe someone can learn from my mistake. There are four ground wires bolted to the lower driver's side transmission housing bolt. I knew they were corroded. I used penetrating oil several times. However, I still ended up breaking them. UGH! Well, transmission is down, converter is in. Hopefully tonight I can get the wires soldered and shrink wrapped and install the transmission. If I use dielectric on them when I reinstall will this prevent this from happening again? Gary
I'm not sure. Are you talking about the connector to the trans? If so, dielectric grease might keep water out and help it slide in smoother. It won't do anything for the heat making the plastic brittle. You can wrap it in heat resistant material and it makes it better but sooner or later, it will get brittle. If you are talking about the ground wires, I would chase the threads to make sure they are clean, squirt brake cleaner to wash out any shavings that came out, lightly wire wheel the bolt (DON'T GET CARRIED AWAY) and use anti-seize. If it seems too loose, use a lock washer. Maybe every few years when you drop the pan, if you can get to it, loosen the bolt and snug it back?
I go once in a while since it is about a 2 hours away. Smoking a trans or rear end or motor means renting a car to get home, get the truck, rent a trailer, go get the car onto the trailer and bring it back then send it for fixing since I don't have the facilities to do a rear end, trans or engine. I think we both know how much the shop loves to have your car sit there for the next month or two till the rebuilt item comes.
My problem is that most times I cut a corner on an item, it comes back to bite me in spades. Kinda why I came to the realization that if something is too cheap, say more than 20% under average I should walk unless there is a legit reason. I've had good and expensive, cheap and lousy, expensive and lousy but never good and cheap.
I don't know how much you know about drag racing. I run a 4:88 gear in the Dana rear. Your not driving the car to any track. I trailer the car everywhere. You make big power your are going to brake parts. Big dollar parts 2 I think your missing my point. If you have a lot of money to spend by all means do it buy the high dollar parts. But they brake 2. If this guy don't have big pockets and he just wants to have a nice streets car and he is not making big power. I see no need to buy a $ 900 converter when he don't have the money when he can get away with a $500 converter. Put the extra $400 somewhere else. I am not saying i'm right or wrong. Just like you have an opinion that's just mine.
Last edited by drag racer 9; Feb 2, 2016 at 01:56 PM.
I don't know how much you know about drag racing. I run a 4:88 gear in the Dana rear. Your not driving the car to any track. I trailer the car everywhere. You make big power your are going to brake parts. Big dollar parts 2 I think your missing my point. If you have a lot of money to spend by all means do it buy the high dollar parts. But they brake 2. If this guy don't have big pockets and he just wants to have a nice streets car and he is not making big power. I see no need to buy a $ 900 converter when he don't have the money when he can get away with a $500 converter. Put the extra $400 somewhere else. I am not saying i'm right or wrong. Just like you have an opinion that's just mine.
3.54 so I can drive it and I do make it a daily driver. If I decided to have a trailered car in the driveway or garage, the wife would probably shoot me since we have too many toys.
I understand where you are coming from. $400 savings isn't exactly pocket change. If you cannot afford everything today, it might be better to delay gratification and save up for it. I buy a PI and you buy a TCI. In 91 days, whether you drive it or not, you are SOL if something happens. I have 5 years. Within 2 years, it won't cost me a penny for the labor to restall it or cut it apart and clean it (4R100 trans failure). In 91 days, you are done. So, I guess both options are valid. So, is the peace of mind for 5 years worth $400? If you have no warranty issues in 5 years, I agree with you. Go with instant gratification. OTOH, if you have issues, I suspect you will agree $400 was well spent. As Dirty Harry said "You gotta ask yourself a question. Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?"
As one could expect....Alot of very good advice on this. I agree with using 2400-3k stall on this set up and a tranny cooler. maybe even a deeper pan to add extra fluid to dissipate heat more. If it is going to be a daily driver I would absolutely add a tranny cooler to whatever set up you choose.