My Silverado had the same drop also which was the check valve in the fuel pump (very common). Had to turn the key a few times to get the pressure up to get it started. Mine dropped real fast down to half. But if it drops slow it will still start.

Re-check the spark again to be sure its still there.

 

my GM truck did the same thing and ate fuel pumps I made a door in the bed to make it easy.

I really think there is a good chance it is the fpr. he has it in his hand but will not put it on. I do not understand this at all maybe he is a troll just screwing with me.

 

I watched all the YouTube videos on how to replace the pump.

Because it has a bed liner and really does not come out and is a nice truck, I did not want to cut it out. So I did the bed lift method myself which worked out fine. I used a jack on the wheel which made it real easy to lift the bed.

 

mine was a nice truck too but I just had a rubber mat. I did it that way the first time but was hard to get in there mine was a step side. by the fourth pump I was really glad I did it.

 

The problem is that the car is in the gated parking area of the dealership, and I can't just start working on the car there. They close the gate at around 5 pm. So I was going to work on it out on the street, and drive it away. But there is a public park and homeless camp across the street, and starting at 8 am the street parking is metered. So, it's just safer to leave the car in the service department lot overnight, and have it towed this morning to the shop I made the appointment with earlier this week.
If it was the fuel pump check valve, my oil wouldn't smell like gas..
so it's likely an injector?
Thanks for all your help, I will report back when I know more.

 

so you put the fpr on? and now moveing to the injectors? I would have paid the stealership labor just to put on the fpr and test with no gaurantee if it held then a oil change and drive away. but now your paying another tow and at a shops honor.

or evan better tip the tow truck drive to take it to his lot or some place else and change the fpr then hold it up for the oil change.

 

Antfarmer, the stealership wouldn't do the FPR, I asked them to just do that and oil change and they said no.
So it was towed to the new shop this morning for another $50, and I just got off the phone with them. They said they charged the battery, and it started but ran rough. He said the oil level was acceptable, just a mm or two below full on the dipstick and he didn't think it smelled like gas. They didn't do anymore, and thought they should check compression next week and maybe its an ignition or coil problem, or maybe it has a coolant leak in the head or cracked block.

 

I went to the shop, it started and ran and I drove it home. Shop owner said he did a block test and the color changed, so he thinks I still have a problem.

Check engine light is on.
Car showed no signs of overheating, oil pressure ok, etc

 

I added seafoam to the gas tank, and stop leak to the radiator. It idled a little rough at first but is now smooth, and I drove it around the garage for 50 minutes, it never went past about the middle of the temp gauge, with AC on and off.

Cautiously optimistic, I will get an oil change tomorrow

 

One more update,
I started it up after letting it sit for an hour. Service engine light is off! After about a minute though, it comes on... then engine abruptly stops.
I hit the starter and it immediately fires up again, idles.
I bend the old paper clip and get:
C12 (thats normal, right?)
H44
H18

Maybe this car was sitting too long and just needs a little activity.

off to sleep

 

http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2011...trouble-codes/

 

so they just charged the battery?

 

I put my phone number in your private message inbox call me if you want to..................... Don

 

You should always specify what module the codes are from. Usually the engine is module 4 (PCM) however still state it. Not all codes set a engine light. But if there is an engine light, there's probably a code. There is a specific procedure to clear codes or remove the battery connection for a minute. The battery works for clearing module 1 and 4 but not 9.

I would clear the codes and then recheck again.
Those codes are historic and may mean nothing at this time assuming they are from module 4 (PCM)

The worst thing is to let these cars sit. It would be probably wise to get some running time on the car and engine before I would make any judgments to replace parts. When the seller said it was running fine, that is a judgment call and can mean any darn thing.

Seems like since it is running the ignition system probably is OK. Might just need some plugs down the line or pull a couple out and take a look for now. Passenger side front 2 are the easiest.

Having fuel pressure drop off for now is not the end of the world. I have had a few time myself but as long as the pump is running and the fuel pressure is good, you may never know it and will run OK. However it may affect getting the engine started. Should be on the list to get fixed eventually.

The digital temperature gauge is the one you really go by. Cycle thru the gauges button till the coolant temperature is displayed. The analog gauge is head temperature and may or may not be accurate and does not track the digital gauge exactly.

 

Good Talking To You Steve ! call whenever you like
I'm up till 11:00 pm pacific standard time

I'm glad you didn't have to endure abuse from the dealer or the indy

 

Topped off with 92 octane. So it starts fine and idles with no service engine light. After two or so minutes, the service soon light comes on, and the idle subtly changes, even better. If I turn it off, it starts up again with the service light off. It has stuttered and stopped on me twice. Getting the oil changed now, there's no gas in it. Battery is at 29 cca, I'm going to replace it.

 

good deal!!!!!!

 

I am going to try looking for a vacuum leak, or maybe the idle air control valve is sticking. It starts, and idles but I can feel it slightly struggling with the idle. Then the service engine light will come on, and the idle will noticeably improve.
Still, feeling dam lucky right now!!
Thanks, everyone who helped me on this thread!!

 

You might just look at the EGR to see if the diaphragm moves smoothly. See if it moves OK with engine off, and then move a smaller amount with engine running. A small vacuum leak will cause a higher idle but may have no roughness. A large leak will cause a roughness and hard starting (like EGR).

Consider cleaning the throttle body and MAF. Note there are different cleaners for each. Throttle Body Cleaner and Mass Air Flow cleaner. Careful removing electrical connectors as they are 22 years old and brittle

Clear the codes and recheck if the engine light still comes on. It can give you a clue of what to look at.