engine build question
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,378
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
I do a couple of WOTs at least each day it goes out on the street.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 66
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All the guys are making good points. One thing I can tell you is if you make one change you have to make others. Also watch your clearances. I'm sure the guys will agree with me. If your tearing down the motor change the bearings and freeze out plugs. Now if you see what I'm getting 2 it gets very expensive very fast. You need to know what your doing and have a game plan. My Race motor I have a lot of money just in the bottom end alone. If your making all the changes your thinking about remember this if your building compression your not going to run on pump gas. The motor will knock and ping. I'm not trying to put you down. Maybe just trying to get you to think about. But a good race motor really sounds good. Good luck Buddy
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,378
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
If I buy a $200 junkyard motor, I have no issues honing, rings, gaskets, bearings and small misc items to get it running myself. When it is a $2000 rotating assembly to be matched with a machined block, I don't think I feel good doing it myself
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,422
Likes: 202
The best Value to performance PR are trick flow. If you went with 1.6 with your Let's assume LE cam. you will almost Likely need .100 longer in length. But if you are sending you heads to Llyod. Have him check the roller tip to valve stem center position.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,422
Likes: 202
All the guys are making good points. One thing I can tell you is if you make one change you have to make others. Also watch your clearances. I'm sure the guys will agree with me. If your tearing down the motor change the bearings and freeze out plugs. Now if you see what I'm getting 2 it gets very expensive very fast. You need to know what your doing and have a game plan. My Race motor I have a lot of money just in the bottom end alone. If your making all the changes your thinking about remember this if your building compression your not going to run on pump gas. The motor will knock and ping. I'm not trying to put you down. Maybe just trying to get you to think about. But a good race motor really sounds good. Good luck BuddyNot so true. I have over 11.1~ I tune. I do not NEED race gas. My engine does not PING. The LT1 has a great advantage with the reverse cooling the heads 1st... Also i believe the OP'r has the LTCC coil conversion you can remove the Rotor no longer needed. less rotational stress. The OE Cap is now Only a cover! that helps out with spark where the OE 1 coil fades out in the upper RPM range. This OP'r has also been advised to stay with a mild cam about stock compression to keep the cost down.
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Jan 25, 2016 at 01:13 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,378
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
Not so true. I have over 11.1~ I tune. I do not NEED race gas. My engine does not PING. The LT1 has a great advantage with the reverse cooling the heads 1st... Also i believe the OP'r has the LTCC coil conversion you can remove the Rotor no longer needed. less rotational stress. The OE Cap is now Only a cover! that helps out with spark where the OE 1 coil fades out in the upper RPM range. This OP'r has also been advised to stay with a mild cam about stock compression to keep the cost down.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 382
Likes: 17
Yea I dont mind going the LE2 Route on the heads, the cam has to be street friendly, i posted the specs i liked. I need the car to be a daily driver it wont be a drag car whatsoever. Heads coming off tonight, so im making some progress. Once the Heads and block go out ill know what im doing. As far as .100 in length Admiral 383 what are you implying...the pushrod length?
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,378
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
Not sure why people always say that. I mean, if I were building a competitive race car to run pro, I'd certainly not be asking around an internet forum and have a professional builder do the job. Last dyno was about 420 at the wheels. I have AC, stereo, ABS, etc, and all the creature comforts it came with. I even installed a power seat for the passenger. Yes, the idle is a little lopey and higher than stock but I'd say it works for the street in that it doesn't spin the tires at the slightest twitch of my right foot.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,422
Likes: 202
Yea I dont mind going the LE2 Route on the heads, the cam has to be street friendly, i posted the specs i liked. I need the car to be a daily driver it wont be a drag car whatsoever. Heads coming off tonight, so im making some progress. Once the Heads and block go out ill know what im doing. As far as .100 in length Admiral 383 what are you implying...the pushrod length?
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Jan 25, 2016 at 07:38 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,422
Likes: 202
PS Typically 383 rotate kits come with flat 2 valve relief. The LT1 heads are 58cc so a typical 383 will put you in the 11.5 - 12.0 compression ratio. The reverse cooling will handle this. But race fuel will almost be mandatory. Select your pistons 1st to keep you in the 10 - 11.0 range
I had a nice pair of 64cc 2.02 heads. from my previous L98 HSR build. I had my heads converted to use them on the LT1 reverse cooling.
I had a nice pair of 64cc 2.02 heads. from my previous L98 HSR build. I had my heads converted to use them on the LT1 reverse cooling.
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Jan 26, 2016 at 11:47 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 382
Likes: 17
Street friendly.....meaning not a crazy lopy idle thet affects vaccum and something i can run on 93 octane. I will tune it obvi. I want about 400Hp and be able to drive it. So i think with the LE2 heads and the cam i choose will suit my top ene just fine. I just need to select my bottom end components. I dont want to worry about pinging etc. this is not a race car. Its going to be w daily driver with some good pop. I would like miniumn 400hp
Last edited by 94VenomVette; Jan 25, 2016 at 08:33 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,422
Likes: 202
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,378
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
Street friendly.....meaning not a crazy lopy idle thet affects vaccum and something i can run on 93 octane. I will tune it obvi. I want about 400Hp and be able to drive it. So i think with the LE2 heads and the cam i choose will suit my top ene just fine. I just need to select my bottom end components. I dont want to worry about pinging etc. this is not a race car. Its going to be w daily driver with some good pop. I would like miniumn 400hp
Long block: $6K
Trans: Depends on whether it is auto or not
Rear end should be a D44 with gears: $4000
Dyno: $600-800
Headers and exhaust: $2000
Get ready for $15-20K for the whole deal or forget the thing/
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,378
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
Fast, Reliable, Cheap. Pick any 2 you like. Soon as you build up a motor capable of putting more power than stock, you moved out of the design. Now that power finds the next weak link which is the trans and rear end. Do anything else and you are going to simply have one thing break after the other.
When I got my LPE 383 and brought it to Lingenfelter for tuning, after he got done, he TOLD me that my freshly rebuilt (by GM) stock trans would die within the year.
When I got my LPE 383 and brought it to Lingenfelter for tuning, after he got done, he TOLD me that my freshly rebuilt (by GM) stock trans would die within the year.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 382
Likes: 17
Well with a large amount of horsepower your going to break things, im not new to this. Never done a stroker before so needed some help and very happy with everyone chiming in. I know it will get exspensive but over time ill put into it. My main goal is to have engine back in the car by summer. Ill get my longtubes, injectors, tuning all done by then...if the trans goes it goes im actually thinking about the ZF6 and the dana 44 anyway. But i understand your thinking completely. 400-420hp for me in this is right were i wanna be. Pump gas 93 & a lopy but not too aggressive idle is perfect and already know what route im going to go. Im def going to have more questions but for now you all have set me in the perfect direction. Thanks!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 28,378
Likes: 3,261
From: Hartford WI
Well with a large amount of horsepower your going to break things, im not new to this. Never done a stroker before so needed some help and very happy with everyone chiming in. I know it will get exspensive but over time ill put into it. My main goal is to have engine back in the car by summer. Ill get my longtubes, injectors, tuning all done by then...if the trans goes it goes im actually thinking about the ZF6 and the dana 44 anyway. But i understand your thinking completely. 400-420hp for me in this is right were i wanna be. Pump gas 93 & a lopy but not too aggressive idle is perfect and already know what route im going to go. Im def going to have more questions but for now you all have set me in the perfect direction. Thanks!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 382
Likes: 17
Also should i send my intake out if the heads check ok to have them matched? I def want 1.6 Roller rockers aluminium. The heads are going out thursday as well. i have them completely taken apart to the bare no valves etc. Ill have Lloyd turn them into LE2 heads pending results.
I found a set of lifters from Comp. Looking for pushrods now. 7.300 what i need correct?
the bottom end I'm going to inquire about this weekend.
I found a set of lifters from Comp. Looking for pushrods now. 7.300 what i need correct?
the bottom end I'm going to inquire about this weekend.
Last edited by 94VenomVette; Jan 26, 2016 at 06:53 PM.