When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I almost wonder if you even Have the right rod now if it is to long, with out having the car in front of me and seeing if the Slave is bottomed out in the bore (which it shouldn't be) when assembled you should be able push the slave plunger in and make the rod loose.
This^. A re-wording of what I posted earlier. This should be where you're starting, so you can separate the actuation, from the clutch mechanism, then narrow your focus.
I agree that home made push-rods shouldn't be necessary, and instead will likely complicate things.
Throwout bearing: Here's where it get's interesting.
Throwout bearing GM# 15613306, 1&1/4 inch long. Evidently there must be some history of mix ups since instead of just giving a part number, the parts manual specify an overall length of the throw out bearing. I remember Chevy throwout bearings of that era (and earlier, lol) being "short" or "long" style.
Could something as simple as this be the root cause of your clutch issues? A too long throwout bearing would explain pretty much all the issues you've encountered...except of course your alleged "driving style"
Last edited by mtwoolford; Jul 22, 2016 at 03:32 PM.
Clean up the rod you have get the car back on the road, order up or find a replacement.
as for the home made rod link, no need not worth the effort to many donors out there and it's cheap new http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1984-1988.html
I almost wonder if you even Have the right rod now if it is to long, with out having the car in front of me and seeing if the Slave is bottomed out in the bore (which it shouldn't be) when assembled you should be able push the slave plunger in and make the rod loose.
I just realized that it's not too difficult to get the new rod in there once everything is put together... just ordered a new one from Corvette Central (missed the 12:00 shipping cutoff for Eckler's) and it will be installed soon after. I'll go ahead and bleed/replace the fluid as well. The length is a good point, and all the more reason to replace. I still need to verify that the slave can be compressed, but I'll make sure of it. Thanks again!
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
This^. A re-wording of what I posted earlier. This should be where you're starting, so you can separate the actuation, from the clutch mechanism, then narrow your focus.
I agree that home made push-rods shouldn't be necessary, and instead will likely complicate things.
I just ordered a replacement from CC, not considering that it would be simple to put in the new push rod after the clutch job. There's one thing I don't have to worry about rushing here, at least. I still have yet to do the slave cylinder test but I'll be heading over there as soon as I'll have the chance to do that.
Originally Posted by mtwoolford
there may be a mismatch of parts:
Clutch fork, GM #14048868
Stud, Fork Ball GM#3790556
Pushrod GM#14047672
Throwout bearing: Here's where it get's interesting.
Throwout bearing GM# 15613306, 1&1/4 inch long. Evidently there must be some history of mix ups since instead of just giving a part number, the parts manual specify an overall length of the throw out bearing. I remember Chevy throwout bearings of that era (and earlier, lol) being "short" or "long" style.
Could something as simple as this be the root cause of your clutch issues? A too long throwout bearing would explain pretty much all the issues you've encountered...except of course your alleged "driving style"
This is real detective work! I'll be checking this out. Having worked in an auto parts warehouse, the TOB part designation seems pretty egregious. I don't know what they were thinking. Of course, I'm sure all of the old ladies out there merging onto the highway with their left foot on the brakes don't realize it so perhaps I'm doing the same with my clutch
Well, the new clutch is in and everything appears to be fine clutch-wise. However, there's now an issue with the shifter; apparently the reverse rod will not go far enough to hook up to the correct location (?)
What the mechanic told me was that it was an issue with the shifter itself. I know this is more of a 4+3-centric issue, but at least figured that there could be some more minor culprit that would be related to clutch replacement. Reverse is part of the overdrive on these cars, but I'm not sure that's relevant to the current problem. As far as symptoms, I was told that the gear lever would simply not move to the left and into the reverse position. Thanks again for the help.
Well, the new clutch is in and everything appears to be fine clutch-wise. However, there's now an issue with the shifter; apparently the reverse rod will not go far enough to hook up to the correct location (?)
What the mechanic told me was that it was an issue with the shifter itself. I know this is more of a 4+3-centric issue, but at least figured that there could be some more minor culprit that would be related to clutch replacement. Reverse is part of the overdrive on these cars, but I'm not sure that's relevant to the current problem. As far as symptoms, I was told that the gear lever would simply not move to the left and into the reverse position. Thanks again for the help.
Just like the Clutch let's start with the Basics. The shift levers the T-10 Levers hang down(from shift rod), and I take it they are in Correctly since the car moves properly. the Reverse Lever points up(from shift rod) Opposite of the others.
The only other Question I have was the trans untouched, No repairs done to it Just a trans waiting for a clutch?
Just like the Clutch let's start with the Basics. The shift levers the T-10 Levers hang down, and I take it they are in Correctly since the car moves properly. the Reverse Lever points up Opposite of the others.
The only other Question I have was the trans untouched, No repairs done to it Just a trans waiting for a clutch?
The trans wasn't touched; as you said, just a trans waiting for a clutch. I think I see what you're saying in the exploded diagram below. All the mechanic said was that the reverse rod/linkage would not reach far enough and that the issue seemed like a problem with the shifter itself. I don't really see how a clutch job could cause this problem, but I figure there might be some sort of simple solution. I'll go by tomorrow earlier and try to get more details.
The trans wasn't touched; as you said, just a trans waiting for a clutch. I think I see what you're saying in the exploded diagram below. All the mechanic said was that the reverse rod/linkage would not reach far enough and that the issue seemed like a problem with the shifter itself. I don't really see how a clutch job could cause this problem, but I figure there might be some sort of simple solution. I'll go by tomorrow earlier and try to get more details.
I am sure it is something simple, it's a unbolt re-bolt process so I would start with a even more basic look, Make sure the Key is in the Ignition and the car is in Neutral. remember when you secure your car and you want your Key back you need to lock in Reverse and that I believe locks the rod too which would make sense.
there's a simple procedure for initially aligning the shifter forks...no I don't have it at hand, but any decent manual or google search should reveal it...and the bushings, no. 5 , tend to wear over time and need replacement...stock are usually Teflon, so they don't last forever. That's about it (p.s. there are metal "performance" bushings available but stay away from them; not so much the vibration as the constant "buzzing" they make).
I am sure it is something simple, it's a unbolt re-bolt process so I would start with a even more basic look, Make sure the Key is in the Ignition and the car is in Neutral. remember when you secure your car and you want your Key back you need to lock in Reverse and that I believe locks the rod too which would make sense.
Sounds like a logical starting point! Thanks
Originally Posted by mtwoolford
there's a simple procedure for initially aligning the shifter forks...no I don't have it at hand, but any decent manual or google search should reveal it...and the bushings, no. 5 , tend to wear over time and need replacement...stock are usually Teflon, so they don't last forever. That's about it (p.s. there are metal "performance" bushings available but stay away from them; not so much the vibration as the constant "buzzing" they make).
I will look for bushings then. The procedure should be detailed in the shop manual, so hopefully that can clear things up! The mechanic described it as a problem of the reverse rod not reaching the correct position, but I can't see why this problem would surface now. He said it was a problem with the shifter itself.
As for the clutch, it seems that the flywheel surface was uneven. Though it's hard to be sure that was the problem. Nothing glaring came up otherwise, so I'm hoping the issue is resolved. Thanks again for the pointers! I hope my scrutiny of the clutch won't let down everyone that walked me through it.
Originally Posted by Red 91
If your mechanic paid you to work on your car he would still be too expensive.
Went back to the mechanic today to run through the possibilities. He said that the reverse rod simply wouldn't extend far enough and was about an inch too short. He also said that if he were to hook it up with the car in reverse, it would mean that the car would have to be started in reverse every time. I urged him to look at the shop manual I gave him, but he seemed confident that no further information would help to fix the issue. While I thought this was probably somehow related to the reverse ignition lockout, he insisted that it was a separate issue that didn't surface the last two clutch jobs.
So is there something blatantly obvious I'm overlooking here, or could it really be a problem with the shifter? Whatever it takes to get the car back on the road...
Went back to the mechanic today to run through the possibilities. He said that the reverse rod simply wouldn't extend far enough and was about an inch too short. He also said that if he were to hook it up with the car in reverse, it would mean that the car would have to be started in reverse every time. I urged him to look at the shop manual I gave him, but he seemed confident that no further information would help to fix the issue. While I thought this was probably somehow related to the reverse ignition lockout, he insisted that it was a separate issue that didn't surface the last two clutch jobs.
So is there something blatantly obvious I'm overlooking here, or could it really be a problem with the shiftier? Whatever it takes to get the car back on the road...
If you try to hook up the Reverse linkage wrong it will be short, I am Sorry to say I am loosing Confidence in your Mechanic, And I try not to be Judgmental anyone can have a off day
Put someone in the car go through the gears clear out the shiftier gates. Make sure the car is in Neutral in the shiftier and in Neutral below (that means you can spin the wheels by hand) make sure T-10 arms are hanging down from the rods and Reverse is pointing up from rod and try again
If the rods are put though their paces are they moving, unless the Reverse rod was pushed in and is jammed in the tower, but that would take a big push with a very worn Shiftier.
I have a 85 4+3 and just put the clutch back together on my rebuild last week, so I am familiar with the parts. I am not an expert.
You say you like your mechanic, but I am curious about his skills. He should be able to verify that the clutch hydraulics are releasing the pressure on the fork when the pedal is out and that the fork moves freely. Once that is verified, then either the flywheel/friction disk/pressure plate assembly holds under torque or it doesn't. Any reused parts should have been spec'd by you mechanic. From what I read above you are using new parts, so the plate assembly should work fine. The fact that it failed so quickly after rebuild would point me to improper attention to assembly, like clutch travel.
I have a 85 4+3 and just put the clutch back together on my rebuild last week, so I am familiar with the parts. I am not an expert.
You say you like your mechanic, but I am curious about his skills. He should be able to verify that the clutch hydraulics are releasing the pressure on the fork when the pedal is out and that the fork moves freely. Once that is verified, then either the flywheel/friction disk/pressure plate assembly holds under torque or it doesn't. Any reused parts should have been spec'd by you mechanic. From what I read above you are using new parts, so the plate assembly should work fine. The fact that it failed so quickly after rebuild would point me to improper attention to assembly, like clutch travel.
I'm sorry to bring this thread to life all this time later, but things have been hectic and I haven't had much to report on.
This mechanic actually has adjusted the shifter rods before. Now, however, I'm being told that the problem does not lie in the linkage but inside the shifter itself. According to the mechanic, the problem is most likely has to do with the ring that pulls up to engage reverse. Could this be a possible culprit?
New clutch is still slipping like the world's worst slushbox and makes a clattering sound when engaged and I'm probably going to take the car to a Vette specialist. I guess what I really am asking is whether that spring-loaded mechanism that allows the shifter to go into the reverse gate could be the culprit and whether it's a likely problem. Thank you all again.
I'm sorry to bring this thread to life all this time later, but things have been hectic and I haven't had much to report on.
This mechanic actually has adjusted the shifter rods before. Now, however, I'm being told that the problem does not lie in the linkage but inside the shifter itself. According to the mechanic, the problem is most likely has to do with the ring that pulls up to engage reverse. Could this be a possible culprit?
New clutch is still slipping like the world's worst slushbox and makes a clattering sound when engaged and I'm probably going to take the car to a Vette specialist. I guess what I really am asking is whether that spring-loaded mechanism that allows the shifter to go into the reverse gate could be the culprit and whether it's a likely problem. Thank you all again.
Just a thought, could the od unit be slipping, chattering? It seems like you've went through the clutch pretty good. Maybe someone here with better knowledge of this trans can chime in. I would think the linkage would be a separate issue.
After going through all the b.s. you are going through. Got rid of the slave cylinder. Got rid of 4+3 put in a tremic tho 600
Put in a hydraulic throughout bearing 3/4 inch master cylinder a street strip clutch.
No problems
Prior in 3 years replaced 3 clutches. Put in New balanced flywheel on the 383 striker each time.
5 of my slave cylinders were damaged by over heating cats.
Good luck
I spent a lot of money wanted to blame mechanic "me"
Just a thought, could the od unit be slipping, chattering? It seems like you've went through the clutch pretty good. Maybe someone here with better knowledge of this trans can chime in. I would think the linkage would be a separate issue.
Gary
It would seem that it could somehow be a culprit, but of all the 4+3 problems I've read about, I've never read about slipping or unusual noises without overdrive being engaged. I believe that the overdrive unit itself effectively bypassed when not in overdrive.
