C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Lug Nuts

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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 07:46 AM
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Default Lug Nuts

I recently purchased an 88 Anniversary Edition with the white aluminum wheels. Several lug nuts were either missing or stripped and the nuts that are on do not appear to be correct. Searching several sites show many different lug nuts. Need help on correct style. Attached is picture of current nuts.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 08:01 AM
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I believe just a M19 hex with the correct bulge. Use this OE for a Dorman correct on nearly every auto parts shelf, GM# 14092873

*** I wouldn't be hurried to buy matching! So long as you've got proper bulge and a M19 hex who cares. You've a cap to cover them!! If they fit and ain't stripped - don't worry.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Jan 30, 2017 at 09:00 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 08:18 AM
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as WVZR-1 says...

since you have anniversary wheels, the lug nuts will not have external threads as shown in your pic. , the original GM OE part number for the lug nuts is 14092873. a suitable replacement (M19-B) is available at rockauto, or just about any parts supplier -

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....041242&jsn=529

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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe C
as WVZR-1 says...

since you have anniversary wheels, the lug nuts will not have external threads as shown in your pic. , the original GM OE part number for the lug nuts is 14092873. a suitable replacement (M19-B) is available at rockauto, or just about any parts supplier -

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....041242&jsn=529

I bought some at NAPA. Just wasn't sure because they go in a lot further. When fully tightened there is only about a 1/4" of lug still protruding. They appear to be the same as the ones shown at rock auto.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 10:50 AM
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The lug nuts in the pic are a type that GM used for a wide variety of passenger cars that used a plastic cap over those nuts. That's why there are external threads on them.

With the wheels using a center cap covering the area, just get a set of bulge-style lug nuts with a 60 degree taper. Your existing lug nuts will work fine assuming there is no interference with the center caps.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 11:14 AM
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I would think you would want the 5 lugs per wheel to weigh the same.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cdm747
Something seems wrong with this picture. The stock lugnuts, being a cone seat and not a shank, will only grab a few threads of the studs. That is why some have stripped. Either the studs are too short or the wheel is too thick. This car would not pass tech at a NHRA sanctioned strip; the threaded stud has to protrude past the lug nut, and is actually dangerous to drive.

Last edited by 383vett; Jan 30, 2017 at 01:16 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Something seems wrong with this picture. The stock lugnuts, being a cone seat and not a shank, will only grab a few threads of the studs. That is why some have stripped. Either the studs are too short or the wheel is too thick. This car would not pass tech at a NHRA sanctioned strip; the threaded stud has to protrude past the lug nut, and is actually dangerous to drive.
I didn't like the way they looked either. I will post a picture of the newer ones I installed when I get home later.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:49 PM
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https://www.amazon.com/DPAccessories...+Wheel+Lug+Nut


I bought these for my car to replace the 4 safety nuts and I have the rest for backup. They are identical to the OE, they are 20 and also have the external thread, but I´m not sure if your 88 is the same as my 93
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cdm747
I didn't like the way they looked either. I will post a picture of the newer ones I installed when I get home later.
OK - I just figured out that the ones NAPA sold me are the standard lugs and not the bulge type. That is why they go in so far. I just ordered a set of the Dorman 611063.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Something seems wrong with this picture. The stock lugnuts, being a cone seat and not a shank, will only grab a few threads of the studs. That is why some have stripped. Either the studs are too short or the wheel is too thick. This car would not pass tech at a NHRA sanctioned strip; the threaded stud has to protrude past the lug nut, and is actually dangerous to drive.
I'm with this guy and there's certainly apparently issues with the stud length.

OP- pull a wheel and measure from the rotor to the tip of the stud. You might maybe just check all of the wheels and maybe it's just unique to the one you chose to take the snapshot of. The studs certainly seem very short.

I can't compare to any of mine because everything I have has the dog-point.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Jan 30, 2017 at 08:20 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
I'm with this guy and there's certainly apparently issues with the stud length.

OP- pull a wheel and measure from the rotor to the tip of the stud. You might maybe just check all of the wheels and maybe it's just unique to the one you chose to take the snapshot of. The studs certainly seem very short.

I can't compare to any of mine because everything I have has the dog-point.
I just checked the Rock Auto web site for the stud. It shows a M12x1.5 stud that is 41.5mm long. That is approximately 1 5/8". I will check when I get home later but I am pretty sure that is what is on the car.
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 10:34 AM
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Maybe the previous owner put a spacer behind the wheel.
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 11:10 AM
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I removed all four wheels from the car to replace the broken and stripped studs. There were no spacers behind the wheels. The standard (no budge) nuts do go on to give a full nut but when I replace them with the budge type that I ordered they probably will not. The only other option would be to replace all of the studs with longer ones. I can't believe that all of the studs have been replaced with incorrect ones but I guess anything is possible. That is why I started this thread in the first place.
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Maybe the previous owner put a spacer behind the wheel.
I thought early studs less the dog-point were near flush with correct nuts (less external threads) and actually the nut with external provisions wasn't threaded to the end so might present itself as recessed but would be considered acceptable.

I've not had one of the bulge less the external threads in hand for a long while but I don't remember them being only partially threaded. The external threaded that isn't threaded to the end will do NHRA I believe if they look and see that there's no threads in the bore. I believe I recall a situation similar with a Fiero of a friends.
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