C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Camshaft Research and Question

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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 07:14 PM
  #101  
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lwt mw t put i ts wao
700c 70cc .028 gaskwt youlll bejuzt fuein,
Keepp yoor ifin comcig in slcow wo 200 with a omdrern cominberussterbcahcner you ulllsill if IOD on the st,
Dont kitsne to hard and fast runes,.

Let ius know whw aaata you erooryt back.
When qaA kis rhwew qa is 84 tryingto malke it as a DDD...he hepst alomst teh G gmueveve and asnsa car run fgraeutu
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 07:19 PM
  #102  
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It doesnt amatter at 40000 or mmore os It it its wiw hwat his.

i c i X x hihallitituee EF I wi ituunve int tifor what rot sor mogts? camn e thyat nncghharder than en EFOI. GVVp ahgpaade Whnpowho estedd ebovvveee 80088 enyoneewawat
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 08:42 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
OP for once let me suggest this to tyou



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232-23334-240 Ex 1110
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matchin youe to intekae
Headres w/cats/ your call
Your car wleipp wipp til 6k with its stick geeratar
Youllbe nin love . Forever............turssstu me on ethis
id you nwed aony porntung workinf done,.,,,, i geve amone y bac guaratenn no. Think about it.
Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
lwt mw t put i ts wao
700c 70cc .028 gaskwt youlll bejuzt fuein,
Keepp yoor ifin comcig in slcow wo 200 with a omdrern cominberussterbcahcner you ulllsill if IOD on the st,
Dont kitsne to hard and fast runes,.

Let ius know whw aaata you erooryt back.
When qaA kis rhwew qa is 84 tryingto malke it as a DDD...he hepst alomst teh G gmueveve and asnsa car run fgraeutu
Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
It doesnt amatter at 40000 or mmore os It it its wiw hwat his.

i c i X x hihallitituee EF I wi ituunve int tifor what rot sor mogts? camn e thyat nncghharder than en EFOI. GVVp ahgpaade Whnpowho estedd ebovvveee 80088 enyoneewawat

Now you are speaking the op's language.
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Old Nov 29, 2017 | 09:31 AM
  #104  
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Does anyone know by what factor advancing a stock camshaft by 2 and by 4 will shift the motor's power production by? Also, how much would that cost in labor to have a shop do it professionally on a 5.7L LT1?

Since I have plenty of time to screw with my motor, I should see if simple tweaks such as camshaft advancing and having 1.7 RRs thrown on, would make me happy, before going hog wild with my other ideas.
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Old Nov 29, 2017 | 09:59 AM
  #105  
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I think that you should get it running right, first.
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Old Nov 29, 2017 | 10:00 AM
  #106  
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Advancing cam moves power band down. How much depends on cam profile. Because of the opti spark you would need a custom crank gear and reprogramming to correct timing offset. When you alter cam timing you also alter spark and injector timing.
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Old Nov 29, 2017 | 10:12 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by Kevova
Advancing cam moves power band down. How much depends on cam profile. Because of the opti spark you would need a custom crank gear and reprogramming to correct timing offset. When you alter cam timing you also alter spark and injector timing.
So pretty much the same work involved with a camshaft swap, huh? Yeah, they were right, it is enough to give you headaches on how best to go about this. Well, I will throw this in my options bag and consult the right place when the time comes. I have everything from stroking it, to mild camming it, to just advancing my stock cam, and whether or not the TPI intake idea is worth it or not.
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 12:04 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
I think that you should get it running right, first.
A shop discovered that one of my oxygen sensors was not fully threaded before the cat, by a previous shop. So, this could explain the slight power loss I was experiencing for a good two years. With the new oxygen sensor, and properly installed, the car certainly feels like it has more power on the low end now. However I still have my heart set on modifying the motor to be more efficient and with the torque curve shifted to the lower end.

Also, I apologize for my comments putting down the L31 camshaft proposal you made at the start of this thread. I only recently started looking into the B-Body LT1 camshaft and that was when I noticed the specs are nearly identical to the L31. Plus, if I have my heart set on making a TPI intake work on my LT1, the B-Body LT1 camshaft would be the best complimentary camshaft.

When the spring comes around and I get a chance to feel the full power of my motor up to 5000 RPM on the expressway, I will still be soul searching as to whether or not this is what I want to do. How can I pass up instant low end torque on demand though?!

Last edited by Phoenix'97; Dec 31, 2017 at 12:07 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 08:13 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
A shop discovered that one of my oxygen sensors was not fully threaded before the cat, by a previous shop. So, this could explain the slight power loss I was experiencing for a good two years. With the new oxygen sensor, and properly installed, the car certainly feels like it has more power on the low end now. However I still have my heart set on modifying the motor to be more efficient and with the torque curve shifted to the lower end.

Also, I apologize for my comments putting down the L31 camshaft proposal you made at the start of this thread. I only recently started looking into the B-Body LT1 camshaft and that was when I noticed the specs are nearly identical to the L31. Plus, if I have my heart set on making a TPI intake work on my LT1, the B-Body LT1 camshaft would be the best complimentary camshaft.

When the spring comes around and I get a chance to feel the full power of my motor up to 5000 RPM on the expressway, I will still be soul searching as to whether or not this is what I want to do. How can I pass up instant low end torque on demand though?!

Penix........you are still here...........



I have found if you tighten all o2 sensors.....IT WILL FEEL FASTER AND RUN BETTER!

I will cut my old TPI intake down for you to get that good ol low end torque for you now that the o2 sensors are tight....I also have my old cam for the L98 for you!........when the spring time comes, you will have an awesome f-body!!!!!! I agree......how can you pass this up???

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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 12:45 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by 856SPEED
I will cut my old TPI intake down for you to get that good ol low end torque for you now that the o2 sensors are tight....I also have my old cam for the L98 for you!........when the spring time comes, you will have an awesome f-body!!!!!! I agree......how can you pass this up???

I told you guys I was serious but you won't believe me. It is easier to call someone a troll when they are not. However, I still have much more to learn granted the contradictory information I am coming across for how to build this motor correctly to my specification and to give me the performance I seek, performance that is not even performance grade to the rest of you guys.

Just so you know, I didn't install those oxygen sensors myself two years ago, that was another shop. I have regretted the work they did ever since.

You don't need to cut up the TPI intake. After some additional measuring, I have 3 inches exact of clearance between the top of my stock intake to the bottommost portion of the wiper cowl above. The stock TPI intake should fit without the need to make additional room, but I will need the custom shop to make that decision after a test fit. If I were to try to use a FIRST TPI intake, I might definitely run into clearance issues since the plenum is that much more beefier than the stock plenum. It don't matter anyways because I don't need that much airflow, extrude honing a stock TPI intake with AS&M big runners should be all the airflow I need for my given set-up.
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 01:00 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
When the spring comes around and I get a chance to feel the full power of my motor up to 5000 RPM on the expressway, I will still be soul searching as to whether or not this is what I want to do. How can I pass up instant low end torque on demand though?!
It's easy for any person who actually understands the difference between power and torque to pass this up, because you're making your car slower. It's also easy to pass up if you understand that what you keep proposing won't actually net you any fuel efficiency gains. All this "instant torque" bullshit never changes: it's just a fairy tale people bring up when they want to make this stuff more complicated than it really is. You didn't invent the concept - you've just fallen for the bullshit. The fact that you think you have all these better ideas, but your car hasn't even been in good repair all this time, tells us all we need to know about how well-founded your thoughts about this are.

It doesn't matter if you're really doing this or just trolling us. If you want a slower Corvette than you have stock, using an intake that goes back in time to a design that was specifically made as a workaround to relatively poor engine and emissions management systems and that was less efficient overall than the stock LT1 you have now...well, that's your choice. Just quit expecting anyone else to agree that it's a good idea. Same goes for your ridiculous drivel about isobutylactopropacannabinoidyzine and any other silly alternative fuels you want to fantasize about.
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 01:28 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
Does anyone know by what factor advancing a stock camshaft by 2 and by 4 will shift the motor's power production by? Also, how much would that cost in labor to have a shop do it professionally on a 5.7L LT1?

Since I have plenty of time to screw with my motor, I should see if simple tweaks such as camshaft advancing and having 1.7 RRs thrown on, would make me happy, before going hog wild with my other ideas.
It will make as much difference as a flock of butterflies changing the rotation of the earth. Here is a quick approximation of advancing the stock or short duration. Wait for a windy day go outside and face the wind drop pants and take a wiz....
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 01:42 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
Does anyone know by what factor advancing a stock camshaft by 2 and by 4 will shift the motor's power production by? Also, how much would that cost in labor to have a shop do it professionally on a 5.7L LT1?

Since I have plenty of time to screw with my motor, I should see if simple tweaks such as camshaft advancing and having 1.7 RRs thrown on, would make me happy, before going hog wild with my other ideas.
It will make as much difference as a flock of butterflies changing the rotation of the earth. Here is a quick approximation of advancing the stock or short duration. Wait for a windy day go outside and face the wind drop pants and take a wiz....
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 04:27 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
It's easy for any person who actually understands the difference between power and torque to pass this up, because you're making your car slower. It's also easy to pass up if you understand that what you keep proposing won't actually net you any fuel efficiency gains. All this "instant torque" bullshit never changes: it's just a fairy tale people bring up when they want to make this stuff more complicated than it really is. You didn't invent the concept - you've just fallen for the bullshit. The fact that you think you have all these better ideas, but your car hasn't even been in good repair all this time, tells us all we need to know about how well-founded your thoughts about this are.

It doesn't matter if you're really doing this or just trolling us. If you want a slower Corvette than you have stock, using an intake that goes back in time to a design that was specifically made as a workaround to relatively poor engine and emissions management systems and that was less efficient overall than the stock LT1 you have now...well, that's your choice. Just quit expecting anyone else to agree that it's a good idea. Same goes for your ridiculous drivel about isobutylactopropacannabinoidyzine and any other silly alternative fuels you want to fantasize about.
He doesn't own a Corvette, Matt........he is the f-body orphan that is housing himself here on a Corvette forum.
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 05:18 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by 856SPEED
He doesn't own a Corvette, Matt........he is the f-body orphan that is housing himself here on a Corvette forum.
Oh yeah, I forgot that. Well, if he wants a slower F-body...
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 06:27 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
Oh yeah, I forgot that. Well, if he wants a slower F-body...
The reason I am on here was to seek out the expertise of Corvette owners and see if that contrasted to the information I was getting on an F-body forum. Initially the information was good until I started getting advice that strayed from what my build goal is and then I started to get ridiculed for what I am trying to do.

Honestly, I don't care what your opinions are about what I am doing. My car is a daily driver that I don't take to the track and one that I am actively driving in the winter. So, if I am making my car "slower", it is for good reason, it is a daily driver, not a damn race car! Do you understand that at all? I understand you specialize in making high horsepower race cars, that is fine but it is not what I am trying to do for my car! So, if you have any true expertise, tell me how I am making my car slower with my intended modifications? Please refrain from using your own personal opinions and insults as factual information.
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 07:20 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
Honestly, I don't care what your opinions are about what I am doing.
Then stop asking our opinions about what you're doing!

My car is a daily driver that I don't take to the track and one that I am actively driving in the winter. So, if I am making my car "slower", it is for good reason, it is a daily driver, not a damn race car! Do you understand that at all?
Do you understand that making your car slower is not just a bad idea for race cars? Do you think a race car is the only car that benefits from having the ability to go fast? If you really want a slow, fuel-efficient car then you are starting out with the wrong car. Really, really wrong. An old Honda CRX or Civic would be much more what you need, and you could literally double your fuel efficiency.

I understand you specialize in making high horsepower race cars, that is fine but it is not what I am trying to do for my car!
That's not what I specialize in. I "specialize" in having a car that has a very mid-range-oriented power curve with a teeny cam that works wonders in autocross and street conditions. It could make more peak power with a bigger cam (and it did, at one time), but that would make it less good at the first two missions.

So, if you have any true expertise, tell me how I am making my car slower with my intended modifications?
Yeah, already done that ad nauseum and you just dismissed it all. Same for why you won't be realizing any efficiency gains, even as you spend lots of time and money to do all this silly work to your motor.
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 07:35 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
Honestly, I don't care what your opinions are
Be careful...you once said the same thing to me...and then this happened after I told to you get it running right...

Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
A shop discovered that one of my oxygen sensors was not fully threaded before the cat, by a previous shop.

Also, I apologize for my comments putting down the L31 camshaft proposal you made at the start of this thread.

My intent isn't to rub in what I originally said....my point is that I knew what I was talking about, gave good advice and you responded by doing the same thing to me that you're doing now, to Matt.

Matt knows what he's talking about. Listen to him.
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Old Dec 31, 2017 | 07:36 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
Then stop asking our opinions about what you're doing!
Then what good is there to have a forum? Everything I am asking now will help me to better construct a build plan for the engine builder and to better plan out how to get all the parts I need for my motor and all necessary services I will require to improve upon those parts.

Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
Do you understand that making your car slower is not just a bad idea for race cars? Do you think a race car is the only car that benefits from having the ability to go fast? If you really want a slow, fuel-efficient car then you are starting out with the wrong car. Really, really wrong. An old Honda CRX or Civic would be much more what you need, and you could literally double your fuel efficiency.
Why does everyone cite an import as the choice I should make for a car? This is more of an example of the let down in advice that I get from these forums. You guys modify for speed and I am modifying for the opposite end of the spectrum. Since I can't enjoy speed at higher RPM beyond 5000 in the city, I might as well build the car for lower end torque and to work with my factory gear ratio. This will help to maintain, if not, improve my fuel mileage. This is where my logic comes in to use the TPI intake which was designed and optimized for daily driving, the same build goal I have in mind, optimized lower and mid-range torque production without the care of losing power when the intake starts to choke off after 4500 RPM. This may be dull to you all but it is PRACTICAL for a daily driver and cruiser, especially when I like to launch from a green light to get my giggles!


Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
That's not what I specialize in. I "specialize" in having a car that has a very mid-range-oriented power curve with a teeny cam that works wonders in autocross and street conditions. It could make more peak power with a bigger cam (and it did, at one time), but that would make it less good at the first two missions.
Well, I want my car optimized for lower and mid-range power. The intake of choice is the TPI modified to fit Dart 180cc heads. The camshaft of choice is hovering around the stock B-body Caprice/Impala LT1 camshaft with nearly the same specs as the L31. Either that, or a custom grind very close to the ZZ4 specs. I have some time to soul search, research, and decide upon how I want to go about this.

This is why I keep on asking for opinions, but so far it is not very helpful when all I get is mocked for it. You build your car your way and I will build it my way, but give me the knowledge I need to make better choices in the future. That is all I ask.
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 12:05 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by Phoenix'97
Then what good is there to have a forum?
For you it's not doing any good at all. That's because despite what everyone here is trying to tell you, you keep telling us that you have your own ideas about how to build a car for street use with good economy. So fine, go do it. It's incredibly off-putting when you ask for advice and then blow it all off. A lot of us have tried to give you the knowledge and facts you keep asking for, and you keep telling us it doesn't apply to you because you only care what happens below 5000rpm and plan to use unicorn fuel, or because you want to win a fuel economy contest, or you want to drive in the snow...or whatever. There's always a reason that nothing we tell you applies to you.

Why does everyone cite an import as the choice I should make for a car?
Because you keep saying you don't care about speed - you just want good fuel economy and "it isn't a race care!1!1" Well I've got news for you (actually it's not news, because you've been told this a bunch of times already): if fuel economy and driving in the snow are really important to you, then you don't start with a Z28 Camaro! If you just really like F-body style or handling or something, then at the very least you should have started with the V6 Camaro. It actually got much better mileage back in the day, and still had decent performance. It even could handle better because it had a lot less weight up front. That's self-evident to most people. The fact that "everyone cites an import as the choice you should make" should tell you that you are fundamentally looking at all of this the wrong way. All of this. But no, according to you "everybody" are idiots and ********, and you alone can see the wisdom in building the fuel economy champ among all LT1-powered cars. Well here's some free advice: you aren't Einstein or Bill Gates, so when everybody sees the obvious and you refuse to acknowledge it, the problem is you.

You guys modify for speed and I am modifying for the opposite end of the spectrum.
Yes, as I said you are modifying for the opposite of speed: slow. And I promise that if you head down the path you are talking about, you will achieve that goal. Don't expect us to congratulate you.

Since I can't enjoy speed at higher RPM beyond 5000 in the city,
That's just wrong. It's a premise that's faulty from the outset, and it's one reason you have no idea what you're talking about. My car pulls to about 6000rpm before it starts laying down (as I said, it's focused very much for midrange), and I can use the **** out of that on the street (just ask the people who live around me). But more to your point, I can also blow my street tires away in second gear at 30mph, which is 2500rpm, and have a blast doing it. That's with my "race-only" ported LT4 intake (like a Mini Ram), heavily ported heads (equivalent to AFR195 Competition heads), and lots of cam overlap. The bottom line is that if you think a TPI car with a truck cam is more usable or more fun on the street than stroker with wisely chosen heads and cam and your stock intake, you just haven't driven any decent cars. That's just a dumb thing to say. And if you think a TPI and truck cam is going to get significantly better mileage than that combo, you've never actually lived with a TPI car. I've owned a TPI car and my current LT4 stroker, and I've driven stock LT1 and LT4 cars as well as various LS cars, and I can tell you that you will enjoy your TPI/truck-cam setup less.

And one big reason that you don't know that is that you've been driving around in a broken car. A good-running LT1 Camaro has no problem breaking normal street tires loose from a standing start. So moving "torque" lower in the powerband gets you nothing but more wheel spin.

Dammit, I'm already going back down the rabbit hole with you. I'm sure you'll reply and tell me why none of that applies to you.

This may be dull to you all but it is PRACTICAL for a daily driver and cruiser...
Again, if you're willing to spend thousands of dollars to make your stock Camaro slower just for practicality's sake, then you are starting off with the wrong car. An f-body or Corvette is not a practical car in most ways. They are practical as a very cheap way to fast - that's it. But yet your whole plan is predicated on ruining the one thing that they are good at. That's why everyone tells you to get a small-engine fwd car that starts out slow and gets great fuel economy...

especially when I like to launch from a green light to get my giggles!
Yeah, you bring your TPI-intake, truck-cammed car to St. Louis and do a few "green light" launches next to my "race only" super-radical, impractical car. We'll see who giggles.

I have some time to soul search, research, and decide upon how I want to go about this.
You also have time to sell your car, and pool that money along with thousands you'll spend for all these stupid mods and buy a nice, used Prius.

Last edited by MatthewMiller; Jan 1, 2018 at 12:07 AM.
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By Joe Kucinski | 2026-05-27 17:20:09


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How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972

Slideshow: How much horsepower every Corvette engine lost in 1972.

By Joe Kucinski | 2026-05-27 16:54:53


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Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!

Slideshow: How to Protect A Convertible Top: 10 DOs & DON'Ts

By Michael S. Palmer | 2026-04-03 00:00:00


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