TCC Lockup-Diagnostic Help?
#42
Burning Brakes
You need to use a pick and needle nose pliers to remove the clip inside the valve body for the filter. You going to have to cut the wires, and splice in the new TCC.
I just ran two wires to the connector on the drive-side. One is a ground and the other one is power. My car had black and white wires. I would apply power to the old TCC solenoid and listen for a click. My new TCC solenoid only needed 0.5 amps. If it works fine, you might have an issue with pressure sensors inside the transmission. You could remove the pressure sensor and check to see if there working correctly.
I just ran power off a manual switch to power my TCC solenoid.
Curious if you spilled any transmission oil?
I just ran two wires to the connector on the drive-side. One is a ground and the other one is power. My car had black and white wires. I would apply power to the old TCC solenoid and listen for a click. My new TCC solenoid only needed 0.5 amps. If it works fine, you might have an issue with pressure sensors inside the transmission. You could remove the pressure sensor and check to see if there working correctly.
I just ran power off a manual switch to power my TCC solenoid.
Curious if you spilled any transmission oil?
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1993C4LT1 (03-14-2018)
#45
Race Director
Thread Starter
Dude thank you for all the help, and everyone else. Just came back from a lengthy drive. She was locked the whole time she was supposed be. I can't even believe it. Hope I am not jinxing it. Currently outside the gym. And cell phone battery is low. But I have a vid for you guys. And I'll upload more pics of installing the solenoid, and tips. But for now, here's some pics I got while out. Ran this VW that makes 350 to the wheel. Cool guy!
That was not the VW leaking, by the way!
That was not the VW leaking, by the way!
#48
Race Director
Thread Starter
Agreed. So my 93 FSM calls for 10liters(4.9 quarts) for a drain and refill. I put 4.5 quarts and it looks a little high?
1st pic I went through all the gears, and paused for 3 seconds in each gear. Coolant temp was about 140. It is slightly above the COLD level.
2nd pic, drove it for about 10 minutes in the city. It is slightly above the HOT level. Should I suck some out?
3rd pic is FSM saying for a drain and refill.
Cold check, it is in between cold and hot marks.
Above the HOT.
1st pic I went through all the gears, and paused for 3 seconds in each gear. Coolant temp was about 140. It is slightly above the COLD level.
2nd pic, drove it for about 10 minutes in the city. It is slightly above the HOT level. Should I suck some out?
3rd pic is FSM saying for a drain and refill.
Cold check, it is in between cold and hot marks.
Above the HOT.
#49
The FSM is 10 PINTS with the *meaning 'recheck'. 10 pint = 5 quart = 4.7 liter
#51
Burning Brakes
Keep an eye on it, check the fluid level once you get some heat into the transmission. I think its not enough to worry. I personally like slightly more fluid than less, helps keep the line pressure up. Helps to keep the gear shifts nice and firm/solid.
I bet your transmission will be a bunch cooler than what you had previous.
I bet your transmission will be a bunch cooler than what you had previous.
#52
Race Director
Thread Starter
Keep an eye on it, check the fluid level once you get some heat into the transmission. I think its not enough to worry. I personally like slightly more fluid than less, helps keep the line pressure up. Helps to keep the gear shifts nice and firm/solid.
I bet your transmission will be a bunch cooler than what you had previous.
I bet your transmission will be a bunch cooler than what you had previous.
Although I have been changing the fluid/filter yearly since the trans was rebuilt just under 3 years ago. Fluid came out red. Will upload pics and tips for anyone having to change the solenoid. Just need to find time when I can stay seated for a while.
#53
Race Director
Good job. Glad it worked out. Can't believe how many tcc solenoids I've replaced troubleshooting lock up issues. Fluid level should be fine. As previously stated, I like run the fluid a little over too.
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1993C4LT1 (03-15-2018)
#54
Burning Brakes
1993C4LT1, you have one nice car.
Curious if you had any steel/clutch material in the transmission pan? If you wait till the transmission oil is black or has a burnt smell, you've waited too long to service the transmission.
Bright red transmission oil is perfect.
Curious if you had any steel/clutch material in the transmission pan? If you wait till the transmission oil is black or has a burnt smell, you've waited too long to service the transmission.
Bright red transmission oil is perfect.
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1993C4LT1 (03-16-2018)
#57
Maybe at the next service you toss 2 new magnets in there!!
#58
Burning Brakes
Looks good, a whole bunch better mine had a chit ton that silver stuff, my transmission doesn't like the fact I doubled my car HP last year.
Most of that fine metal is the steels, that are inbetween clutches. Mine is probably the second gear clutch pack. My transmission slips some in second gear.
I had trucks (my trucks) that I did transmission service. You would find broke bits and the pan covered with clutch material.
Post pics of your car. Its awesome that your driving your car. We still have a foot or so of snow on the ground up here.
Most of that fine metal is the steels, that are inbetween clutches. Mine is probably the second gear clutch pack. My transmission slips some in second gear.
I had trucks (my trucks) that I did transmission service. You would find broke bits and the pan covered with clutch material.
Post pics of your car. Its awesome that your driving your car. We still have a foot or so of snow on the ground up here.
#60
Race Director
Thread Starter
Tips for any 92-93 owner replacing the TC Solenoid.
Well to get the pan off is pretty self explanatory. Although one exhaust clamp with a stud/nut does get in the way of 1 pan bolt. Just take the nut off, and move the clamp outta the way.
Take not of how the solenoid was routed, and the colored connections locations. To get the little colored clips off, simply push them outward. May take some effort, but they'll come out.
To get one bolt out that holds the TC solenoid, you need to remove one pressure switch. It's a 22mm or 7/8. It blocks one of the TC solenoid bolts. Once you get the pressure switch out, you are good to go.
One connection on the driver side, kinda hidden near the valve body. It held in place with a tab. Too tight to put fingers up there. I used a long, skinny pic. Worked like a charm. Then, just pull the connector out.
Well to get the pan off is pretty self explanatory. Although one exhaust clamp with a stud/nut does get in the way of 1 pan bolt. Just take the nut off, and move the clamp outta the way.
Take not of how the solenoid was routed, and the colored connections locations. To get the little colored clips off, simply push them outward. May take some effort, but they'll come out.
To get one bolt out that holds the TC solenoid, you need to remove one pressure switch. It's a 22mm or 7/8. It blocks one of the TC solenoid bolts. Once you get the pressure switch out, you are good to go.
One connection on the driver side, kinda hidden near the valve body. It held in place with a tab. Too tight to put fingers up there. I used a long, skinny pic. Worked like a charm. Then, just pull the connector out.