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I have a 1985 automatic it has 51,000 miles. when I put it under load with headlights radio and max A/C or heat the rpms get low about 500 and the volts on the dash will start dropping slowly from 14.4 and go down into the 12’s until the engine eventually stalls. The headlights will dim and then get bright again and the car seems to chug when in reverse. It does it more so in reverse than in park or drive. When I start turning things off the volts will climb back up to 14.4 on the dash and the rpms will run in the 600s and car seems to run fine. Is this because of the alternator and it just is struggling to run everything at the same time or could it be something else?
Pretty new to working on cars mine specifically I know a little but always trying to know more any help is appreciated
I'm no electrical expert, but it seems that if the battery were healthy and charged, it should run everything even with no alternator for a while. So you may have bad battery, or alternator, or both. 14.4v is probably at least tolerable, but something (or multiple things) are no responding well to load. Test both the battery and alternator on a load test.
I’ll give it a try myself in the morning I got the battery tested at autozone in December and it came back a good battery wasn’t all the way charged but was close and then two weeks ago went to advanced auto parts and they tested both the battery and the alternator came back good but started to turn stuff on put the radio on and heat and died almost instantly. Changed the spark plugs after that because he suggested it told me to do that then told me to maybe adjust the tps haven’t messed with that yet. My buddy is a pretty car savvy used to be a mechanic but not to into the electrical part of things he seems to think it’s the alternator but I figured I’d get an opinion from people who could have experienced the same thing with the same type of car.
I’ll give it a try myself in the morning I got the battery tested at autozone in December and it came back a good battery wasn’t all the way charged but was close and then two weeks ago went to advanced auto parts and they tested both the battery and the alternator came back good but started to turn stuff on put the radio on and heat and died almost instantly. Changed the spark plugs after that because he suggested it told me to do that then told me to maybe adjust the tps haven’t messed with that yet. My buddy is a pretty car savvy used to be a mechanic but not to into the electrical part of things he seems to think it’s the alternator but I figured I’d get an opinion from people who could have experienced the same thing with the same type of car.
The battery needs to be charged to 'full' to do a proper load test. There ain't no middle ground, take it to a battery shop and they'll likely ask you to leave it for a correct charge and load test. There ain't a 'quick walk-in' for a good load test!
Your idle is dropping too low. I suspect your iac has failed or is dirty or your minimum idle rpm setting is too low. When you put the higher electric load on the car the iac should open and keep the car idling at 600 rpm. Since your drops to 500 rpm or less the iac appears to not be woking. The alternator will not hold 14 volts at 500 tpm or less with a high load. If you rev it up some does the voltage climb back up to 14 volts? You had the battery and alternator tested, look at the low idle problem.
Your idle is dropping too low. I suspect your iac has failed or is dirty or your minimum idle rpm setting is too low. When you put the higher electric load on the car the iac should open and keep the car idling at 600 rpm. Since your drops to 500 rpm or less the iac appears to not be woking. The alternator will not hold 14 volts at 500 tpm or less with a high load. If you rev it up some does the voltage climb back up to 14 volts? You had the battery and alternator tested, look at the low idle problem.
yeah when I rev it up it will climb back up to 14. I was just playing with it put a multimeter on the battery and it was 12.9 then started her up and it was 14.8 turned everything on and it was about the same a 14.7 put it in reverse and the rpms dropped and looked at the volts on the dash And they started dropping shut the car off and checked the battery and it was still sitting at a 12.9 thank you I’ll look into the iac
Your idle is dropping too low. I suspect your iac has failed or is dirty or your minimum idle rpm setting is too low. When you put the higher electric load on the car the iac should open and keep the car idling at 600 rpm. Since your drops to 500 rpm or less the iac appears to not be woking. The alternator will not hold 14 volts at 500 tpm or less with a high load. If you rev it up some does the voltage climb back up to 14 volts? You had the battery and alternator tested, look at the low idle problem.
The ECM detects the a/c is running and bumps the idle up, there is a diode across the compressor plug check its there.
The 85 hot idle is set at 580rpm, it should start run 1,200rpm a few moments then settle to 800rpm cold and when hot 600rpm.
I find at idle hot with a/c on 580 is what it idles at.
I recommend the base idle setup be carried out, NOTE base idle 400 rpm was changed to 500 rpm for better idle.
The procedure needs the top right hand ALDL terminals under dash to be shorted by paper clip, turn ign on 30 seconds and disconnect the IAC plug and turn off ignition then remove paperclip.
Start the car and set to 500rpm in drive with handbrake on engine hot,
check TPS volts 0.54vdc.
Turn engine off and connect IAC connector and start engine, it should run 1200 rpm a couple of seconds then drop to 600rpm.
OP, do you have a "performance" pulley set up with a larger alternator pulley and a smaller than stock crankshaft pulley? Such a set up will give problems at idle with a lot of accessories turned on. The gain in power to the wheels is offset by a loss of electrical generating power at lower rpms.