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That's a good link! Thanks for the info. I have been looking for someone who was building a header with 1 7/8 primaries for these cars and didn't find any until now.
I am going to use a Holley Mid-Mount accessory drive. The packaging on it is really tight, it includes all the brackets and is loaded with the alternator, PS pump, AC compressor, etc. Pretty much bolt up and run. It looks like it will fit well inside of the frame rails of the C4, because the packaging on it is pretty narrow. https://www.holley.com/products/acce...parts/20-185BK
The car is already being run on a FAST system, and it is capable of controlling the LS engine so no need to go after any engine rewiring. That was a big player in making the decision to go to an LS, was that the engine control strategy was already in place. (at least while its N/A)
At this point I'm not sure if i want to pull the trigger on headers. If I do, i want the ones with the 1 7/8" primary, but a grand is a lot of money to smoke on just a set of headers. When the car ends up being boosted, it will be run on manifolds (hint hint) to keep as much heat in the pipe as possible.
Jeremy
That Holley set-up will fit in, but is pretty pricey. Curious on what (if any) stock accessory set-up do you have? How many wires is the alternator? Looks like you could run the up and over ahead turbos headers with that accessory kit.
I'm running fast ls ez 2.0 kit on my car. Its a pretty basic set-up, works ok. I like the in-cab/and while your driving adjustable that it gives you.
I'm running a set of speed pro headers, they where less than $200 and came with engine plates. Ya those melrose headers are sweet, but like for that much money they should. I'm running a 3in dual exhaust straight off the headers. For the price they are hard to beat, I even got ceramic coating. I wrapped my headers with wrap all the way to the transmission tail.
I'm still running the stock fuel pump, stock rad and fans, stock dana 36 rear and stock transmission. Yeah my transmission is slipping, but I expected it to die right after start-up, and yes my dana 36 rear end is more of a open diff these days. I planned on upgrading my car once things failed.
I probably have 12000 miles on my swap. For me, the LS swap is probably the best mod going for the C4.
Last edited by Mike Holmen; 11-28-2018 at 10:26 AM.
That Holley set-up will fit in, but is pretty pricey. Curious on what (if any) stock accessory set-up do you have? How many wires is the alternator? Looks like you could run the up and over ahead turbos headers with that accessory kit.
I'm running fast ls ez 2.0 kit on my car. Its a pretty basic set-up, works ok. I like the in-cab/and while your driving adjustable that it gives you.
I'm running a set of speed pro headers, they where less than $200 and came with engine plates. Ya those melrose headers are sweet, but like for that much money they should. I'm running a 3in dual exhaust straight off the headers. For the price they are hard to beat, I even got ceramic coating. I wrapped my headers with wrap all the way to the transmission tail.
I'm still running the stock fuel pump, stock rad and fans, stock dana 36 rear and stock transmission. Yeah my transmission is slipping, but I expected it to die right after start-up, and yes my dana 36 rear end is more of a open diff these days. I planned on upgrading my car once things failed.
I probably have 12000 miles on my swap. For me, the LS swap is probably the best mod going for the C4.
Any link to the headers? I have no accessories at all. Engine came with just the short block
C5 Accessory drive on mine, fits like a glove. Like a really tight glove where the only way to remove your pinky is to cut the glove off.
I am not certain that I can remove the A/C compressor without loosening the motor mounts and shoving the engine over or lifting it up. Maybe I can though.
C5 Accessory drive on mine, fits like a glove. Like a really tight glove where the only way to remove your pinky is to cut the glove off.
I am not certain that I can remove the A/C compressor without loosening the motor mounts and shoving the engine over or lifting it up. Maybe I can though.
I'm going to run the Holley setup because it looks to be the most tightly tucked. I need room up front for ..."activities" later down the road.
I'm going to run the Holley setup because it looks to be the most tightly tucked. I need room up front for ..."activities" later down the road.
Understood.
I wish I knew what long tube headers are on mine, they are 1-7/8" but for the life of me, I can't find out who made them. No markings anywhere and I haven't seen anything like them.
I wish I knew what long tube headers are on mine, they are 1-7/8" but for the life of me, I can't find out who made them. No markings anywhere and I haven't seen anything like them.
assuming they’re actually made for a C4, last time I checked Melrose is the only company making them.
I'd buy those before Melrose cause stainless is life bro, and 1 7/8" primaries.
thats the first I’ve heard of that company. Holy **** at those prices though. Way to take advantage-$300 for engine mounts. Just give the Chinese some time to copy those headers. Lol
thats the first I’ve heard of that company. Holy **** at those prices though. Way to take advantage-$300 for engine mounts. Just give the Chinese some time to copy them those headers. Lol
That would be nice lol any time now guys! I know I would be sacrificing a decent amount of power by not running headers but the cost is ridiculous
Last edited by Pwnage1337; 11-29-2018 at 08:26 AM.
Reason: I removed some profanity because I'm trying to be more mature
I'd buy those before Melrose cause stainless is life bro, and 1 7/8" primaries.
The ceramic Melrose uses for the coating makes it a moot point. The cost of stainless vs mild steel is almost negligible, the up charge is there for no actual reason really... However the thermal conductivity of stainless is a tad lower than untreated steel so...
My headers look nothing like any of the photos of any of the C4 swap headers I have seen. The collectors aren't parallel with the head, they come in at an angle and the 3" tubing has a turn before the flange. Kind of like a c5-c6 headers but the distance between the flanges is greater.
My headers look nothing like any of the photos of any of the C4 swap headers I have seen. The collectors aren't parallel with the head, they come in at an angle and the 3" tubing has a turn before the flange. Kind of like a c5-c6 headers but the distance between the flanges is greater.
I've been curious if anyone has bought a set that are meant for a different car and reworked them. I'd buy those and spend 20 hours on them before smoking a grand on the others
I've been curious if anyone has bought a set that are meant for a different car and reworked them. I'd buy those and spend 20 hours on them before smoking a grand on the others
I'm the same way 90% of the time. But there are certain things that I just want to work, exhaust being one of them. I get a tap here or there but if i have to spend days taking them out and in to get them to fit vs spending a couple hundred extra and they just work I might just go that route. Stainless works and tpis are insanely priced though. I don't drive it in the rain or snow so the melrose for me personally would be adequate. Unless you're pushing 500hp I don't even think 1-7/8 primaries are necessary unless you're trying for every last ounce at the track. You'll get to a point of diminishing returns fairly quick looking for all the little things if you aren't pushing it to the limit every time you run it. That's just my opinion and that's why my build won't be some high revving 350 when it do it. I'm just going to optimize power mid band (2000 -4000) where I spend 90% of my time.
Just my opinion, value your time too, the more you spend effing around is the less you get to enjoy it.
I'm the same way 90% of the time. But there are certain things that I just want to work, exhaust being one of them. I get a tap here or there but if i have to spend days taking them out and in to get them to fit vs spending a couple hundred extra and they just work I might just go that route. Stainless works and tpis are insanely priced though. I don't drive it in the rain or snow so the melrose for me personally would be adequate. Unless you're pushing 500hp I don't even think 1-7/8 primaries are necessary unless you're trying for every last ounce at the track. You'll get to a point of diminishing returns fairly quick looking for all the little things if you aren't pushing it to the limit every time you run it. That's just my opinion and that's why my build won't be some high revving 350 when it do it. I'm just going to optimize power mid band (2000 -4000) where I spend 90% of my time.
Just my opinion, value your time too, the more you spend effing around is the less you get to enjoy it.
I agree. Fortunately its winter and I have at least 6 months to screw around Lol! Looks like Melrose has their headers uncoated for $550 on ebay... I'm sure they'd rust in record time though.
I agree. Fortunately its winter and I have at least 6 months to screw around Lol! Looks like Melrose has their headers uncoated for $550 on ebay... I'm sure they'd rust in record time though.
Just the heat will oxidize them. The ceramic coated steel is imo the best of both worlds because you don't have to worry about welds cracking. However I have also seen with my own 2 eyes 304 rust out as well not headers though but in other high heat applications. I'd look at the obx setup personally. Or even Doug's. Pricey but good.
Just the heat will oxidize them. The ceramic coated steel is imo the best of both worlds because you don't have to worry about welds cracking. However I have also seen with my own 2 eyes 304 rust out as well not headers though but in other high heat applications. I'd look at the obx setup personally. Or even Doug's. Pricey but good.
yea. I think they're 1-3/4 and stainless. But you'd only be hacking up a what... 300$ header? And its stainless. Unless the newer ones are more expensive.
11-28-2018, 10:25 AM
