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No. I think I found some like it. I think they are 1-7/8" Pacesetter C5 headers or some other brand like Hinson and they have been reworked after the collector and then coated. After looking at it this evening it appears the collector was shortened and then ~45° 3" mandrel bent tubing and ball flanges were welded on.
On a side note, my swap was done with the the cross member extensions and BB Mopar type mounts and stock C5 pedestals.
I really doubt that the C5/C6 headers will fit on a C4. There is more room behind the engine on a C5/C6 because they use a torque tube system. We have a transmission bolted the engine.
I run the shorties and made my own 3in collector. 3/8in plate and cut a 3in hole. Welded a 3in short 90 exhaust. Lots of room. Speed Engineering has a bunch of long tube headers for other vehicles that you could try. Worst case you send them back. I would try to find a set of headers that come straight down from the middle of the engine, then back.
How does the engine look? Have you measured the taper on a few cylinders yet? How about the bearings?
I really doubt that the C5/C6 headers will fit on a C4. There is more room behind the engine on a C5/C6 because they use a torque tube system. We have a transmission bolted the engine.
If the swap isn't/wasn't done like this one > LINK , then I agree, C5 headers probably aren't going to fit. However, if it is done like the swap in the link (with C5 pedestals), are running a TKO trans and then cut and rework the collector area; it appears they will fit as it appears that C5 headers are on my car.
Here is the driver side collector of my car. I am now about 95% certain I have C5 headers and they have been chopped and welded at the collector to allow room for the trans.
Curious is there some where you can get a cheap set of C5/C6 long tubes? Most that I have seen are pricey. There lots of room under the car for headers, so I don't understand why they cost so much. You could also buy a u-build it LS header kit.
Krusty, I forgot that you had a T-56 in your car. Which T-56 is it? One out off a Ls1 camaro? Sorry for all the questions, I'm not much of chevy guy, I just hacked mine in.
Curious is there some where you can get a cheap set of C5/C6 long tubes? Most that I have seen are pricey. There lots of room under the car for headers, so I don't understand why they cost so much. You could also buy a u-build it LS header kit.
Krusty, I forgot that you had a T-56 in your car. Which T-56 is it? One out off a Ls1 camaro? Sorry for all the questions, I'm not much of chevy guy, I just hacked mine in.
Curious is there some where you can get a cheap set of C5/C6 long tubes? Most that I have seen are pricey. There lots of room under the car for headers, so I don't understand why they cost so much. You could also buy a u-build it LS header kit.
Krusty, I forgot that you had a T-56 in your car. Which T-56 is it? One out off a Ls1 camaro? Sorry for all the questions, I'm not much of chevy guy, I just hacked mine in.
Those do look like modded C5 headers. Heck if all you got to do is a chop the collector about 3" and add a 45* to the C5 headers.... That's gonna be super easy fabrication work... espc compared to what he has already done with fitting up the 4L80 in the car.
Krusty84 - whats your headers look like for steering shaft clearance?
Those do look like modded C5 headers. Heck if all you got to do is a chop the collector about 3" and add a 45* to the C5 headers.... That's gonna be super easy fabrication work... espc compared to what he has already done with fitting up the 4L80 in the car.
Krusty84 - whats your headers look like for steering shaft clearance?
Will
I will try and snap a photo for you when I get home.
I really doubt that the C5/C6 headers will fit on a C4. There is more room behind the engine on a C5/C6 because they use a torque tube system. We have a transmission bolted the engine.
I run the shorties and made my own 3in collector. 3/8in plate and cut a 3in hole. Welded a 3in short 90 exhaust. Lots of room. Speed Engineering has a bunch of long tube headers for other vehicles that you could try. Worst case you send them back. I would try to find a set of headers that come straight down from the middle of the engine, then back.
How does the engine look? Have you measured the taper on a few cylinders yet? How about the bearings?
I have not had a chance to pull the bottom end apart any further. Been working 12's at work for an annual outage. I'll try to get a little more done this weekend. I don't have telescoping bore gauges so i will have to find some or steal some
I saw that Stroker kit. There was some talk about it on LS1Tech. Interesting for sure....
I'd like to see your headers if possible. I was considering just running the shorties, but was turned off by the 2.5" collector. Could you show me what you've done?
Originally Posted by Mike Holmen
Curious is there some where you can get a cheap set of C5/C6 long tubes? Most that I have seen are pricey. There lots of room under the car for headers, so I don't understand why they cost so much. You could also buy a u-build it LS header kit.
Krusty, I forgot that you had a T-56 in your car. Which T-56 is it? One out off a Ls1 camaro? Sorry for all the questions, I'm not much of chevy guy, I just hacked mine in.
I was looking around last night and found some cheap OBX headers, like 200-300 a set.
Originally Posted by Krusty84
I will try and snap a photo for you when I get home.
Thanks, I'd like to see them too.
Originally Posted by rklessdriver
Those do look like modded C5 headers. Heck if all you got to do is a chop the collector about 3" and add a 45* to the C5 headers.... That's gonna be super easy fabrication work... espc compared to what he has already done with fitting up the 4L80 in the car.
Krusty84 - whats your headers look like for steering shaft clearance?
I just grabbed some 3/8 plate steel, cut out in a square, probably 4.5in by 4.5in. Drilled three holes to bolt to the collector and cut the outside match the puny speed engineering. Took my 3in short radius and drew outside line and cut out with my plasma torch. Welded on my 3in radius elbow.
Cheap way to measure the bore diameter top and bottom, is use a set of rings. Get some feeler gauges and measure the ring gap. Measure about 1/2in from top of cylinder and at the bottom. The trick is keeping ring at the same depth at both sides.
I have an inside bore gauge and decent set of mics. Lots of miles/abuse equals lots of taper, I would also inspect the shells on the mains and rods. Pull the pistons out to inspect the pistons for scuffing/broken rings/busted ring lands.
You going to run an oil cooler? I reused my factory sbc motor mounts on my car. I have to jack my car up to take those pics and I'm out of town for now. I had a blast building my car four years ago. I did mine over the Christmas break
Here is the steering shaft clearance photo. I think the photo makes it look like it is closer than it really is. Probably about an inch of clearance at the closest spot.
I just grabbed some 3/8 plate steel, cut out in a square, probably 4.5in by 4.5in. Drilled three holes to bolt to the collector and cut the outside match the puny speed engineering. Took my 3in short radius and drew outside line and cut out with my plasma torch. Welded on my 3in radius elbow.
Cheap way to measure the bore diameter top and bottom, is use a set of rings. Get some feeler gauges and measure the ring gap. Measure about 1/2in from top of cylinder and at the bottom. The trick is keeping ring at the same depth at both sides.
I have an inside bore gauge and decent set of mics. Lots of miles/abuse equals lots of taper, I would also inspect the shells on the mains and rods. Pull the pistons out to inspect the pistons for scuffing/broken rings/busted ring lands.
You going to run an oil cooler? I reused my factory sbc motor mounts on my car. I have to jack my car up to take those pics and I'm out of town for now. I had a blast building my car four years ago. I did mine over the Christmas break
Thanks for the good info. I think I have a good picture of what you did for your headers.
Originally Posted by Krusty84
Here is the steering shaft clearance photo. I think the photo makes it look like it is closer than it really is. Probably about an inch of clearance at the closest spot.
After seeing this I'm pretty tempted to buy a set of cheap headers for a C5 and cut them up
The GM L3 cnc that I had were 68cc and would have bumped my compression of my LQ9 to 10.5 area. You could send your 317 heads off the LQ4 to get shaved and cnc'd.
Curious on what the plan is for the rods? I installed ARP rod bolts into mine. Heard that the gen iv rods are stronger than the gen 3 rods.
The 20HP gains of LS3 will only be at rpm's above 5500 rpm, at 2000 rpm you'll lose 20HP
I'm interested in your comment on the ARP rod bolts.
The car won't see 7000 rpm, are the ARP necessary? I wouldn't mind them for the peace of mind, but I have heard that installing the ARP rod bolts can cause the "cracked cap" rods to become out of round and need to be re-sized. Is there any truth to this, and what did you do?
I will say it is definitely going to frequent 6000+ because swag yolo race car, just don't know what kind of longevity issues i would run into with stock rod bolts
I'm interested in your comment on the ARP rod bolts.
The car won't see 7000 rpm, are the ARP necessary? I wouldn't mind them for the peace of mind, but I have heard that installing the ARP rod bolts can cause the "cracked cap" rods to become out of round and need to be re-sized. Is there any truth to this, and what did you do?
I will say it is definitely going to frequent 6000+ because swag yolo race car, just don't know what kind of longevity issues i would run into with stock rod bolts
Curious if the seller told you why they pulled out the LQ4 engine? Yes the ARP2000 bolts put more crush (higher tension force) on the rod than the stock bolts. I used plastic gauge to measure the bearing clearance, I was around 1.5 to 2thou area. I notched the front of the windage tray so my holley low clearance pan would fit. I'm not running an oil cooler.
If there is lots of miles on that engine or signs of abuse, you may want to give that engine a freshen up. I got lucky, my LQ9 engine came out a low miler truck that had some front end damage and only had around 50000 miles on it. Everything inside looked like new.inside and there was no scuffing on the piston skirts and the pistons tops looked like new. I have a borescope and heard the engine run prior to purchasing it.
11-29-2018, 08:05 PM
