jerryg01

I'm gonna replace the clutch in my 96, and wondered if the tranny is a problem getting out because of the c frame rail from the tranny to the rear end?

ChumpVette

DUB

BUT...I would be really careful when you put it back in and torque the bolts that hold the 'C' beam to the transmission and rear differential due to the torque specs are SPECIFIC and do not just go in and hit it with your impact.

Knowing that you more then likely do not have a new dual mass flywheel... IF this clutch is still facotry...which I doubt...but it may be. It is marked and not knowing what you plan on installing or doing in this area. it is wise to mark things so you have a reference point due to this assembly was balanced on the assembly line.

DUB

dizwiz24

SJW

Unbolt the beam at both ends, and shove it as far rearward as possible. You'll probably be able to get it to clear the extension housing on the gearbox, and can leave it there until the box is back in place. It worked for me.

As Dub advised, torque all C-beam bolts to spec during re-install. It's important.

Live well,

SJW

DUB

That is how I do it. I rarely remove it completely ...but I have in some cases.

I slide it back to the rear. as far as I can.....then I slide it off the end of the transmission by pushing it to the side and then even push the transmission in the opposite direction. The transmission will start top drop...and when it does that. .I know I can pull back and lower the transmission some more and get the transmission out of the bellhousing area.

Obviously if can get the 'C' beam out...then take it out.

DUB

DAVECAD2.0

Don't for get to support the tranny while removing. The front of the C-beam IS the tranny support. Engine/trans will tilt down. Be careful not to crush anything between the top back of the engine and firewall.

Sleazy Rider

this is where a home made transmission support and a transmission jack really makes life easier. rest trans on support, unbolt and remove c-beam bolts, put trans jack under rear end, remove bat wing bolts, lower rear to clear brackets and push back a little. c-beam comes right out. put rear back in place and hold with the bolts or a couple pins. remove trans and clutch.
install clutch/trans, lower rear end and push back, install c-beam and run up bolts but do not even snug or tighten them, put rear end back in place. torque all fasteners.
if this is a once in a lifetime endeavor, then maybe renting or borrowing the necessary tools to do the job may be in order. but if you do this on a regular basis for years on end then these $$ tools and homemade shop aids make the job go easier on your back and cuts time.
just my 2 cents worth.

DGXR

I just read in another thread that the release fork (that attaches to the throwout bearing) needs to be disconnected and pulled slightly out of the bell housing in order for the transmission to completely disconnect from the engine. This is because the LT1 clutch release/pressure plate is a PULL mechanism, rather than a push action as seen in your typical FR drivetrain clutch layout.

DUB

I agree due to I have hydraulic jacks that can support the transmission and also rear differential so I can lower it while it is up on the lift...but I did not mention it due to I am assuming most people are not doing this on a lift or have access to another lift to hold the rear differential . BUT....YES...that is an easy way to get the beam out with the right tools.

I cannot see how this makes a diffidence due to the only part of the transmission that touches any part of the clutch is the throw out bearing and clutch disc that slides onto the transmission when it goes in. I am confused on this one and I have done many...and I do not remember having to do that. I will have the hydraulics removed but not worry about the clutch fork. Unless I am having a huge brain fart...which has been known to happen.

DUB

DAVECAD2.0

DG: Not true. The Tranny will come straight out. The bell housing won't. You need to remove the TOB spring clip. Push the clutch fork as far left as it will go. Rotate the TOB to the two flats then the clutch fork will come off the TOB. Or, remove the ball stud. 6mm hex for the little cover. Counter-clockwise. 12mm for the big hex. Turn clockwise into the bell housing. Harder this way to put back together.
Dave:

DGXR

This is what I meant to say... not removing the transmission from the engine but removing the *bell housing* (clutch) from the engine. Sorry.
Have seen many threads where people struggle to separate the bell housing from the engine. This struggle has to do with the release fork, as you described.
This is something I may need to deal with in the future so I am glad to be clear on this point. THanks for your help

DUB

And that is why when a procedure is given that is not correct.... it is commented on ...and written correctly so a person who does not do this all the time is not sitting their ...scratching their head and not being able to do what they were told to do when it was incorrect..

I know I have hiccups when I post stuff from time to time and I go back and edit it correctly....or delete it..

DUB