Can anyone help me with some 1996 BIN files? In need to reflash my pcm. I downloaded 2 I found on the web but it was a no go.. So not sure if I didnt solder the sockets well enough or the bins were not compatible..

thanks in advance.

 

Do you need the original base file settings ? OR do you need a complete bin that has stuff the Jet box doesn't access.

Let me know if you need the base file that a Jet box creates

 

No I need the actual flash files you burn to the proms. I have the jet tuner but it locked up during a send and corrupted a flash prom. So I need the red/black side bin and the blue/gray side bin.

 

at this point, does the Jet box communicate at all with the ECM in your Vette. there is an option in there to "force full program" to reprogram everything. get into the help section of the Jet flash module itself and read it that can help you

 

No, thats my issue, it cant establish communication.. I tried a recovery but it cant communicate.. All I need is for it to communicate.. so the base BIN files for each side should solve it unless I have a bad solder joint.. but I went over the two sockets with a high power magnifier and I dont see any issue. My flash PROMS seem to work fine, I can read and write and verify the PROMS just fine. These are the two bin files I tried but no go.

EDIT: I have two PCMs, tomorrow Im going to unsolder the flash roms from the other PCM.. I also bricked that one so I will need to send bin files to those as well but I will try those and solder sockets into my 2nd PCM as well.

 

How are you sending the BINS to the chips, just curious

 

PROM burner.. $50 on ebay or less.

 

Anyone? Otherwise if JET wont send them Im gonna have to buy a used PCM and extract myself.

 

read your email. use what I sent you to get 2 of them fixed and then extract the image to fix the other 2

 

No, you read YOUR email

I may do that.. I do have a spare PCM I havent soldered on yet.. just dont want to have the hassle of shipping out a PCM.. I did write JET and Im hoping they just send me the bin files. thanks buddy.

 

As it turns out the bin files I had and posted here were fine. I had brushed the top of one of the SMD sockets and didnt notice and the melted plastic was interfering with a connection to the flash prom. I cleaned it up, reassembled, ran an OBDII scan and it succeeded. I then connected m DST tuner, did a read and then a subsequent write. Started the car up and it ran fine.

Im not sure what the demand would be but if I can get a bench harness setup for both OBDII and OBD1 PCM's so I can test without installing in my car I will offer this as a service to those that needed it. $99 will be my charge. Its a good hours labor and probably then some to take apart the PCM, desolder the flash roms, and solder in 2 sockets.
If anyone needs this done on a OBDII car (96, 97's) let me know by PMing me here.. if you want it done on an OBD1 car drop me a line as well and I will build a bench test cable if there is enough demand. If you want to take this on yourself.. here is what you need (what I bought and did)..

Programmer:
If dont have a solder iron with a pencil tip that you can adjust heat on.. get one. Mine:
Hot air desolder tool:
\

PLCC 32 sockets:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMP-PLCC-So...72.m2749.l2649

You can re-use your existing flash proms if you clean them up very well or buy from china. I have 10 of each on the way.

BINs for OBD1 are out there.

I found out why I believe I kept bricking my PCM's.. I bought a new charger and didnt realize it couldnt keep up with demand with the ignition in the on position. Put a meter on your battery and make sure its a steady 12.4v when ignition on. I probably didnt need to go through this whole process if I had paid attention to details.

I bought a nice charger that would float charge nicely... but it just wasnt built for ignition on demand even though it said it was putting out in access of 4 amps.. it was a big fat lie and I should have put my fluke on to verify sufficient voltage.

Well, at least I will have a spare PCM sitting on the shelf... Im a little concerned about reliability of running the car with socketed flash proms. I guess I will make sure I buy towing insurance and see how things work out.

thanks to all with advice.. especially drcook.

If anyone knows how to change the VIN Id like to know.. might be needed for those with emissions testing. Maybe I can compare my BIN files and see where the difference is.

 

I didn’t want to find myself in the position to have to beg but here I am.
My Jet Flash programmer decided to crash while I was uploading a new calibration file to my LT4’s ECM. Tried and tried to recover the system but it fails after unlocking and switching to high speed communications. 16214388 .bin file will be in my future as I do surgery inside the case. I’ve dealt with writing to PROMS years ago so I’m not afraid to tackle this one.

Thanks

 

Did you check to see what the availability on ebay was? Is this obd1 or 2? Anyway. last time I checked there were very inexpensive pcms available.

Im not sure what it is you are begging for exactly. You need the bin?

BY the way, after doing this, I would not want to do it again, and I would not do it for $99 anymore because it is all in the workbench setup which for me is long put away. If I were you, Id do 2 things: 1. Burn at least one extra set of chips and put them on the shelf 2. consider buying a bricked pcm and socket a 2nd one just in case. Even opening up a pcm and replacing the chips is a pain in the butt. Years later I cant remember much about this. Id have to go over all my files and so on and re familiarize. As soon as I replace my diff I'll be having to jet my car again an Im not looking forward to it. If I ever get the damn thing done.

Also, let me know if the chips are NLA. I do have 12 spares and could part with one or two sets for little $$. Well, if they are NLA maybe a lot of $$ .. hahahaha

 

Yup, need the appropriate OBDII .bin. The LT4 was only available as OBDII, 1996. I have my eye on at least one used ECM and there's a programmer on the way for delivery tomorrow. A second ECM to have as a backup is my plan too but finding that .bin is top priority today. Can you forward the file? Thanks

 

Sent.

Warning: If you need reading glasses, you might want to get a pair of these... those pins are ultra small. Also recommend some top quality flux, temp adjustable solder workstation, and patience. Take a pill or something if need be

 

I'm naturally near-sighted and have very good closeup vision. Been soldering for well over 50 years so this operation doesn't scare me too much. I'll get some SMD desoldering practice as I salvage some appropriate sockets of old PC circuit boards I've squirrelled away. Not saying this is going to be easy but I'm up for the challenge. Thanks a bunch for the files!

 

Honestly, with 20/20, it is small... I had a solder bridge it took a lot of magnifying to find.
I used hot air for desolder.. near impossible to do it with an iron. That way the chips come off nice and clean. Sockets should be on Ebay.. I wouldn't re-use for something like this but that is me. Good luck.. will be a great achievement to pull it off.

 

One more thing.. those bin files have who knows what on them as far as programming.. I hope you read your config once and saved it.. first order will be a flash from the Jet once PCM is in. Although, my LT1 did start with that config, but ran funny. If you do not have your LT4 configuration it can likely be found over on the LT1 forums which is where I sourced those bin files.. just about anything is there but you have to dig deep.

EDIT: I was just rereading my posts from way back, Changing the VIN is super simple, I just didnt see it in the Jet software.. So if you live in one of those liberal run states, you will want to set your VIN.

EDIT EDIT: By the way, if you look up a few messages, I had posted those bin files here Might want to grab those too to make sure I sent you the right ones.. I have a whole bunch of them but pretty sure those are correct.

 

EEK! Lots to process here. I have plenty of calibration files to play with, including the one I successfully saved from my original PCM/ECM/ECU so I have something to always fall back on. I also have what's supposed to be a factory stock, never edited file. I imported all the calibration data from it to a spare copy of my working calibration file (to preserve the VIN association) and was programming my PCM when Jet Flash crashed.

How does one correctly change the VIN? I used a binary file editor to look through many files and can't locate the values. Seems the Jet Flash program gets upset if you upload a file to the PCM that was sourced from a foreign PCM. As I have some test calibration files that are now linked to my VIN I'd like to stick with it in perpetuity. Don't have to but I want to.

I looked up through this thread a few times and somehow didn't see the bins. Where are they?

Vision and soldering: I'll be so bold as to say I'm pretty good without magnification. Recall that I'm nearsighted, meaning I do NOT have 20/20 vision in the usual sense of understanding. I see very tiny things that are a blur or not visible at all for most folks. But I also have a couple stereo microscopes that can be brought into service if I can't see what I need to see. See, I'm covered

Yup, this is going to be interesting...

Thanks for the tips!

PS: Found the flash fix.bin files you posted. Don't know how I missed them earlier

 

I know this is a stupid question but it’s zero-cost to ask:
Are the (obvious) flash ROM chips the two that have “Flash” printed on them?

The connector pitch (lead spacing) is fine but very practical to resolder using a pin-point tip and good flux. The problem with doing this work and especially when pressing the chip into a socket is the requirement of removing all the silicone conformal coating residue.

What are the chip memory sizes? I’m guessing 512Kb with a 16 bit array. I’ve only worked with big DIP EPROMS in the past.