Best optispark?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 217
Likes: 24
From: Adairsville, Georgia
Best optispark?
I know this has been discussed a million times but I need to know what the best optispark is to go with currently. Pretty sure mine us bad. Skipping at high rpm. Multiple misfire. Poor mpg. I already checked the fuel pressure and it's all good. I planned on replacing it this summer anyways.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 422
Likes: 53
From: PA
I know this has been discussed a million times but I need to know what the best optispark is to go with currently. Pretty sure mine us bad. Skipping at high rpm. Multiple misfire. Poor mpg. I already checked the fuel pressure and it's all good. I planned on replacing it this summer anyways.
Whatever you buy get a good warranty.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
Yea, dis guy can help you...optidoctor search here or ebay. Contact him direct, it's cheaper than buying through ebay...BTW his name is Brad
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...thumbs-up.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...thumbs-up.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...thumbs-up.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...thumbs-up.html
Last edited by vette196; May 23, 2019 at 03:54 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 289
From: MA
I just installed a Petris Optispark bought from ZIP for my GrandSport. Finished the install last night and the car starts and sounds good. I am going for a ride today to see if my misfires are finally gone!
I also replaced the plug wires yet again, but this time I purchased Taylor 8mm Universal set (73251) and purchased the Opti Distributor boots (46052) separately (boots were a real pain to install but they are very secure and worked well in the end). I cut the wires and loomed them around my headers, they are no longer stuffed behind the power steering pump the way the factory did it.
I also replaced the plug wires yet again, but this time I purchased Taylor 8mm Universal set (73251) and purchased the Opti Distributor boots (46052) separately (boots were a real pain to install but they are very secure and worked well in the end). I cut the wires and loomed them around my headers, they are no longer stuffed behind the power steering pump the way the factory did it.
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 14,659
Likes: 749
From: NEwhere Ohio
Sure, if you dont mind being broken down on the side of the road, with cars whizzing past, like having your car unavailable for a week or more as you wait on another made in china replacement, and then ruining a weekend day replacing it.
how about just get the optisparks that are reliable and dont break? Thats the OEM ones or optidoctor ones w/ mitsubishi optical sensor.
For those that will say ‘my oem one broke at 25000 miles, as mine did’ - yes the 92-94 had a design flaw that is easily corrected by adding a vent. Once added its a reliable setup
a long warranty is just a band-aid for a manufacturer to sell a product with an unreliable reputation.
except the warranty never covers the tow, inconvenience and labor costs :wink
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
I've not seen enough evidence of the success of the opti doc...although it's looking good so far. As for the rest of your made-up reasons...I don't live my life, governed by fear, so I wouldn't know.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 1,972
From: St. Charles MO
I know this has been discussed a million times but I need to know what the best optispark is to go with currently. Pretty sure mine us bad. Skipping at high rpm. Multiple misfire. Poor mpg. I already checked the fuel pressure and it's all good. I planned on replacing it this summer anyways.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 289
From: MA
Skipping at high RPM can be the Optispark. I had this happen with no codes. I replaced the Optispark and my high RPM misfires went away completely. It pulls to redline easily now. I also had an issue where when I turned on the Air Conditioner the idle would drop and the engine would almost stall.
The Optispark fixed this as well. It also cleaned up my idle in general.
My Optispark had a bad bearing and the disc was bent hitting the optical sensor.
To me it is unbelievable that an OBD2 car didn't set a code for this. But it can happen!
Exhaust all possibilities first before replacing the Optispark.
I replaced my Coil, ICM (if you have an LT4 use a Borg Warner CBE122 or else you will get an engine light), Plugs, Wires were new but I rechecked them, MAF clean the wires with electronic contact cleaner, Fuel pressure, Vacuum lines, etc.
Good luck!
The Optispark fixed this as well. It also cleaned up my idle in general.
My Optispark had a bad bearing and the disc was bent hitting the optical sensor.
To me it is unbelievable that an OBD2 car didn't set a code for this. But it can happen!
Exhaust all possibilities first before replacing the Optispark.
I replaced my Coil, ICM (if you have an LT4 use a Borg Warner CBE122 or else you will get an engine light), Plugs, Wires were new but I rechecked them, MAF clean the wires with electronic contact cleaner, Fuel pressure, Vacuum lines, etc.
Good luck!
Last edited by grandspt; May 28, 2019 at 05:36 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 1,972
From: St. Charles MO
Skipping at high RPM can be the Optispark. I had this happen with no codes. I replaced the Optispark and my high RPM misfires went away completely. It pulls to redline easily now. I also had an issue where when I turned on the Air Conditioner the idle would drop and the engine would almost stall.
The Optispark fixed this as well. It also cleaned up my idle in general.
My Optispark had a bad bearing and the disc was bent hitting the optical sensor.
To me it is unbelievable that an OBD2 car didn't set a code for this. But it can happen!
The Optispark fixed this as well. It also cleaned up my idle in general.
My Optispark had a bad bearing and the disc was bent hitting the optical sensor.
To me it is unbelievable that an OBD2 car didn't set a code for this. But it can happen!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 289
From: MA
That's a good point. If the problem is the Opti's bearing, then it would make sense that these things are happening and maybe not throwing a code. If it's bad enough to interfere with the actual cap and rotor operation, then it won't throw a code. Possibly ditto if the disk is hitting the sensor, as it would recover the signal for part of every rotation...I guess. Anyway, it's not that it can't be the Opti - just that the OP should really do his diagnostic homework before diving into that job, especially if it's an original OE unit on his car.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
The two opti's I've had that failed, the both failed gradually (gave me plenty of warning) but never generated a code. He first one would break up at high RPM first, too. Still, you can prove it before replacing parts.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 1,972
From: St. Charles MO
That's good info. How did you diagnose that when it occurred at just high RPM? Does it show up somehow on a data log? Also, when breaking up at high RPM would it do the infamous tach-bounce thing too?
Last edited by MatthewMiller; May 28, 2019 at 12:19 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
The tach needle would bounce during high end misfire. It was obvious, too.
It was also heat related and as time went on, the hotter it got, the lower the RPM the miss would start. I covered it all, RIGHT HERE with pics and vid.
The second failure, it would just stop running, randomly, as if you turned the key off. A few minutes later, it would start and drive away w/no issues. NOT heat related. I could prove that one easily w/my scan tool hooked up. One day driving to work, it did the symptom. Car was in gear, engine spinning. Tack read zero. Hi Res "0". Low Res, "0". No CEL b/c the engine just doesn't "think" or "know" that it's still spinning. Details, HERE
It was also heat related and as time went on, the hotter it got, the lower the RPM the miss would start. I covered it all, RIGHT HERE with pics and vid.
The second failure, it would just stop running, randomly, as if you turned the key off. A few minutes later, it would start and drive away w/no issues. NOT heat related. I could prove that one easily w/my scan tool hooked up. One day driving to work, it did the symptom. Car was in gear, engine spinning. Tack read zero. Hi Res "0". Low Res, "0". No CEL b/c the engine just doesn't "think" or "know" that it's still spinning. Details, HERE
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 1,972
From: St. Charles MO
The tach needle would bounce during high end misfire. It was obvious, too.
It was also heat related and as time went on, the hotter it got, the lower the RPM the miss would start. I covered it all, RIGHT HERE with pics and vid.
The second failure, it would just stop running, randomly, as if you turned the key off. A few minutes later, it would start and drive away w/no issues. NOT heat related. I could prove that one easily w/my scan tool hooked up. One day driving to work, it did the symptom. Car was in gear, engine spinning. Tack read zero. Hi Res "0". Low Res, "0". No CEL b/c the engine just doesn't "think" or "know" that it's still spinning. Details, HERE
It was also heat related and as time went on, the hotter it got, the lower the RPM the miss would start. I covered it all, RIGHT HERE with pics and vid.
The second failure, it would just stop running, randomly, as if you turned the key off. A few minutes later, it would start and drive away w/no issues. NOT heat related. I could prove that one easily w/my scan tool hooked up. One day driving to work, it did the symptom. Car was in gear, engine spinning. Tack read zero. Hi Res "0". Low Res, "0". No CEL b/c the engine just doesn't "think" or "know" that it's still spinning. Details, HERE