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Old May 29, 2020 | 12:56 PM
  #381  
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Originally Posted by 69427
Hey man, I respect your perseverance and hard work on this endeavor.
Thank you and yes, it has been a challenge on part II of this venture, but it is worth it.
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Old May 29, 2020 | 04:59 PM
  #382  
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Originally Posted by Buccaneer
Thank you and yes, it has been a challenge on part II of this venture, but it is worth it.
Part 2 take 75.
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Old May 29, 2020 | 05:21 PM
  #383  
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Originally Posted by 84 4+3
Part 2 take 75.
LOL, isn't that the truth. If you were closer, I would HAND CARRY you a new manifold when done.
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Old May 29, 2020 | 05:39 PM
  #384  
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Originally Posted by Buccaneer
LOL, isn't that the truth. If you were closer, I would HAND CARRY you a new manifold when done.
lol all good mate. I really would like to send you mine to see what all else was wrong with it. Granted I did strip a few threads taking it apart. I was very unhappy that day to say the least. And the helicoil in the lid was a day one thing. Tapped sideways from ems.
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Old May 30, 2020 | 01:23 AM
  #385  
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Could you TIG some aluminum on and re machine it?
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Old May 30, 2020 | 01:26 AM
  #386  
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Originally Posted by Buccaneer
LOL, isn't that the truth. If you were closer, I would HAND CARRY you a new manifold when done.
You are close, your on the same continent. Short drive in a fast car.
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Old May 30, 2020 | 06:30 AM
  #387  
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Originally Posted by GregMartin
Could you TIG some aluminum on and re machine it?
I could but I'd still have the problem of it hitting the hood because of where the bolt holes are. It needs a lot.
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Old May 30, 2020 | 08:44 AM
  #388  
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Originally Posted by 84 4+3
I could but I'd still have the problem of it hitting the hood because of where the bolt holes are. It needs a lot.
Hmmm I know you’ve elaborated on it before but I forgot exactly what was wrong with it. So it the bolt holes were in the wrong spot did the ports line up with the heads? Could the bolt holes be redrilled?
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Old May 30, 2020 | 09:51 AM
  #389  
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Originally Posted by GregMartin
Hmmm I know you’ve elaborated on it before but I forgot exactly what was wrong with it. So it the bolt holes were in the wrong spot did the ports line up with the heads? Could the bolt holes be redrilled?
anything that can be wrong is wrong. None of it is horrible but it all added up.
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Old May 30, 2020 | 12:07 PM
  #390  
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WOW! I'm SO glad we pulled the tooling away from them, this makes me sick when I hear about the crap they did. Ugh! Hopefully I can rectify that on this iteration of the unit. I would feel VERY confident about things if Edelbrock was to do everything, but it's a matter of at what cost? I sure hope the road trip works out. More as this develops.
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 09:06 PM
  #391  
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OK, the saga continues... I've been gone a week, I went to Colorado with the tooling and saw two foundry's. The first one couldn't do it since he did not have a big enough cast and would have to purchase another one for around $7,800-8K which the cost gets passed to me. Yeah, a NO! The second one said he needed to purchase a larger cast as well which I pay for and becomes mine. Yeah, a NO!

The big difference between them is the second foundry was getting closer to the price point I wanted to be at and that's it. The second one also gave me the name of another guy in Denver, but I was running out of time and had to leave and I just returned home last night. So, what do we have left that I'm willing to do on this? I'm still waiting to hear back from Edelbrook which I prefer and I need to call the Denver foundry and have a talk with them and see what they can do.

Last edited by Buccaneer; Jun 19, 2020 at 09:07 PM.
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 09:10 PM
  #392  
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Originally Posted by Buccaneer
OK, the saga continues... I've been gone a week, I went to Colorado with the tooling and saw two foundry's. The first one couldn't do it since he did not have a big enough cast and would have to purchase another one for around $7,800-8K which the cost gets passed to me. Yeah, a NO! The second one said he needed to purchase a larger cast as well which I pay for and becomes mine. Yeah, a NO!

The big difference between them is the second foundry was getting closer to the price point I wanted to be at and that's it. The second one also gave me the name of another guy in Denver, but I was running out of time and had to leave and I just returned home last night. So, what do we have left that I'm willing to do on this? I'm still waiting to hear back from Edelbrook which I prefer and I need to call the Denver foundry and have a talk with them and see what they can do.
Thank you for the update sir.
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 10:40 AM
  #393  
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Hopefully Edelbrock!
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 08:08 PM
  #394  
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Originally Posted by Gibbles
Hopefully Edelbrock!
Yeah that would be the best out come
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 03:36 AM
  #395  
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UPDATE: Just to let people know, I talked with Edelbrock last Friday and they should be getting back to me this week with some info. Also, waiting to hear back from another foundry this week. So it could be a good week, we shall see.
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 09:20 PM
  #396  
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Ok, I have a related, but slightly off topic question. I was about to buy a Renegade last year, but was put off by all the reported quality problems. So I ended up picking up a spare stock one off the local CL, ported it to the best of my understanding and am in the process of putting it back on.

I know this probably sucks compared to a good Renegade, but at this point I don't care much - not building a monster CFI motor, just wanted to unleash some cheap easy power. I would've bought the Renegade at the prevailing price, but I guess that ship has sailed for the time being.

So my OT question.. I have a set of stamped non-roller 1.6 rocker arms. From googling around, I can't get a definitive answer to the following... a) is it worth the effort to take out the factory 1.5's and put these in and b) will there be any interferences (e.g. valve/piston or guide slot/pushrod).

I'm only asking here because I know you guys are a serious bunch of CFI nuts and figured you might have useful thoughts on it.

Thanks!
Steve

Last edited by swamp21; Jul 10, 2020 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 09:44 PM
  #397  
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I'm sure you will be fine, however generally you want to take your cam specs and do the math to calculate total lift.

I'm running full rollers @ 1.65 ratio, my heads are slightly tighter than the stock heads, and i have a mild cam with more lift.

I still have plenty of clearance.

You will want to verify geometry to be sure the tips sttipin the middle of the valve.
tuned via pushrod length...

Also, if those are speedway. Return them.


Eta: anyone know if the stock springs can handle the extra compression?

(Something you might need to measure once installed)

Last edited by Gibbles; Jul 10, 2020 at 09:46 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 11:02 PM
  #398  
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I would double check clearance in the pushrod guide slot. It should be fine but it may bind. A stamped 1.6 will fit under the cover just fine. As far as is it worth it? If you have the parts it won't hurt to check but if you have a ton of work to make them fit I wouldn't bother.

I'm running full roller 1.52s on mine. I didn't need all the lift though.
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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 06:51 AM
  #399  
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments, I'll probably give 'em a try. These parts were from Summit, pretty cheap (like $62 for the whole set?). But I was surprised/happy to see they were built in the US. Anyway from the videos I've watched, it looks a lot easier to set the valve lash with the manifold off. I'm just not sure how to verify there's piston clearance with the additional lift.

Anyway, back to the original topic of discussion, thanks for tolerating the interruption.
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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 08:12 AM
  #400  
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Originally Posted by swamp21
Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments, I'll probably give 'em a try. These parts were from Summit, pretty cheap (like $62 for the whole set?). But I was surprised/happy to see they were built in the US. Anyway from the videos I've watched, it looks a lot easier to set the valve lash with the manifold off. I'm just not sure how to verify there's piston clearance with the additional lift.

Anyway, back to the original topic of discussion, thanks for tolerating the interruption.
You will have plenty of clearance between valve and piston. You just need to confirm that your push rods are not binding on the heads.
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