I haven't met a single bolt that I couldn't break loose with my Fire Wrench. First thing I do when something won't break loose is put fire on it

 

I know this from a couple of days back. I'm not doubting that Kroil oil works, however don't fall for marketing statements like 480 of the Fortune 500 companies use the stuff. Just like 4 out of 5 dentists recommend...(I'm a dentist). What companies do is send fortune 500 companies free samples of Kroll oil or for dentists Crest toothpaste. Then they go ahead and make their claims that can't be refuted. Watch out for marketing hogwash. Back to the subject, Tom is right, the op needs heat, real heat. Not candle heat, not hairdrier heat; torch heat.

 

Also (and I don't remember) if the access holes give you a straight shot to the end of the bolts. Sometimes (with the aid of a helper) a flat nose punch can be used to shock the bolt while pressure from a breaker bar is put on it. You wouldn't want to spread the end though, just enough to shock it.

Linear shock is different than plain rotary impacts. The old style manual hammer type impact tools (you hit them with a hammer, they shocked the bolt while imparting rotary motion) did this. I used one of these a lot when younger getting steel screws out of aluminum side cases on a Kawasaki motorcycle engine.

 

The gods have finally showed a little mercy.
All 3 bolts are out unskathed. In fact they show no signs of being rusted or galled . Quite clean as a matter of fact. Looks like thread lock and overtighting were the culprits.
Thank you all for your suggestions,
Finally came off with constant pressure with from a breaker bar held in place with a floor jack, then heat and hammer

 

Persistence is the key! GOOD WORK! I take these types of challenges very seriously and I know many other forum members do too. Happy to hear about your success!

 

Copy. If they don't come with a MAPP gas torch, you need MORE HEAT. You need an oxy-acetylene torch.
Same here. And we do this stuff every day where I work. Heat works. Heat it. Heat it up (enough) and it will come right apart easy.

Congrats to the OP on getting 'em all out.

 

As you know , I'm replacing my my rear hubs.
Again I want to thank everyone for their help.

After getting the hubs off I noticed the Teflon washers needed replacing. No biggie. Ordered them and received today.
After looking at them I notice they are scored.
That they are used washers that have been recaoated. They were only $6 each ( but $10 to ship)
Take a look . You may have to zoom in.

WTF! Used washers.
Does this look right to you.
Purchased from a well known CF sponsor.

 

Doesn't look right to me. I'd be pissed.

 

I am going to say that those are manufacturing marks. They might even be spun on a lathe and formed. I doubt that they had a series of stamping dies made, due to the cost.

It would cost more per part to send people out to scavenge them from parts cars, think about it. How much labor cost to disassemble a junker, remove the parts to get the washer out, transport it, clean it up and teflon coat it AND still sell it for $6.00.

The extra new ones I have also have those marks (from the same manufacturer, doesn't have to be the same vendor, but probably CC). The inside flange doesn't look as far pulled down as the ones I took out when I did my bearings.

 

Just to play devil's advocate here, what if the companies that make the replacement hub/bearings are yanking them in order to get the castings and reuse them? I have no idea if this is happening, but it might be worth nabbing them for the castings they require rather than making new ones. Also, don't forget that these same hub assemblies were used in 4wd S10s and Blazers, so maybe those same washers were used in those too? So there could be a whole bunch of them out there.

 

[QUOTE=drcook;1600460055]I am going to say that those are manufacturing marks. They might even be spun on a lathe and formed. I doubt that they had a series of stamping dies made, due to the cost.

They don't look like manufacturing marks. Too random.
They look like the ones I pulled out, only with a new coating.

 

[QUOTE=89dd;1600461025]They look defective; whatever the reason, I would request a replacement at their cost. Keep us updated because it's useful for the members here to know if we can buy from the forum's sponsors with confidence.

 

Read this, look at the pictures and then think about it

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-rebuilt.html

Companies are not going out and scavenging up used bearings to try and take them apart. They get corrosion damage, other damage. Have other manufacturer's stampings on them.

Have you ever bought a bearing hub assembly with a core charge ? If you can find me a company that's buying them, I have the ones I took out of my car I will sell them. Otherwise, it is the same as the rest of steel is selling for $55.00 per 1000 lbs, which is what I just got 2 weeks ago.

Also, they are just a spacer. Look at the diagram in this thread. They do NO rotating, etc.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...on-washer.html

Back when C4's were being tooled up for production, a progressive stamping die would have been built to stamp out over 400,000 of these (2 per car) (add up how many C4's were made, I just did a quick go using the 1000's column and got to 200,000 real quick).

The first station would have done the center hole, then, depending on how fancy they wanted to build the die, the flange could have been formed, or it simply blanked out. Then the remainder would have been fed singly into a station to form the flange. If they had articulated the die, the entire thing would have been done when it dropped out the end.

When I was 20, I was building progressive dies that went in a press stamping out complete electrical terminals at over 20,000 per hour. The parts were blown out the end. Using an articulated die, the entire run for all the cars up to 96 would have been done in a couple days or so (bigger pieces take longer obviously). Then they would have been stuck into a big tumbler to deburr, then coated with teflon.

BUT it would have been expensive. For 400,000 pcs worth it. For a few hundred a year (maybe) not so. Unless they acquired the original tooling they are forced to use a more economical method. That method is going to leave tooling marks that have absolutely no effect on the end result.

 

Just use them. They are washers, not bushing or bearings. The scratches won't affect anything.

 

Looks like I was off base. Nom-nom-nom-nom....this humble pie is good!

 

Tom, you contribute so much to the forum that you don't need to eat any humble pie.

Maybe a little:

(just kidding)

 

I did use them.
I was pointing out that they look like they were used and then recaoated.
As in not new.
As in no mention that it's a remaned product.
Would like to see a NOS piece for comparison.