I have a 96 Collector Edition, LT4, 6 speed manual for 20 years.
Recently I have a clutch leak and I changed out the master and slave clutch cylinders. I got some air in the line and at that time the car starts but would not able to shift. I bleed the line and vacuum air through the fill reservoir and I was able to get a firm peddle (finally). Then my battery died and I have to change to a new one. After the new battery, I couldn't start the car, there's no click or sound from the starter, but I have lights, I can hear the fuel pump, the window works, and no "security" light from the dash. I researched a bit and read about the VATS and code scanning with shorting pin 4 & 12 on the OBD2 connector. From all the readings, I should see module 1, 4, 9... But I am seeing 1, 7, 9... Sequence. The error I got were from module 7: H12, H17, H22, H27, & H91.

I know H means historical, but since I changed a new battery, wouldn't they all be reset? And I couldn't find anywhere what all these codes means and I need help on them so I can get going again. Thanks!

​​

 

See if this helps
https://tech.corvettecentral.com/201...trouble-codes/
Disconnecting battery doesn't clear OBD2 codes.
History codes won't normally cause no start. Check for spark,injector pulse, and fuel pressure over 42 psi.

 

Kevova, I check the linked page you referenced before but I didn't find anything related those codes numbers (ignoring the "H").

My thinking is that since there were no "clicking" sound or any sound when the key is in start, starter solenoid is not engaged --> no crank issue. Usually when there's a weak battery, fuel delivery issue, the starter will crank, but no start (I got plenty of those before). This is a first for me.

Since yesterday, I checked the VATS connector coming down the steering column (some people found the wires could be wore or broken due to tilting), but continuity test shows they are good (could be my keys resistor contact not touching... but I never had that issue before and not sure how to test that now). I also check the voltage between the starter connector (the one that connect directly to the battery) and the chassis, and the voltage is 12V, so it didn't come apart from the battery change. I also checked the starter relay. There is another relay next to it call the Delay Accessory Bus Relay, I swapped the two and still the same problem. A wiring diagram I found shows that there's a "Thief Deterrent Relay", but I couldn't find where it is... Not sure where to go from here...

 

VATS will set a codes and keep security light on.
Using the CCM override you can test starter enable relay. No start no crank other than the normal voltage tests. Clutch switch or shifter fully in park

 

Great to know, how do I get into CCM overrider or run the test? thanks!

 

FSM would be more detailed, but the link discribes how you access CCM in the first part of it. It's possible there is a YouTube video.

 

That new battery did you load check? What is the specific gravity. Should be between 12.25 and 12.50. Check the date on the battery it could be old stock.New does not mean it is good! Had one just like yors new but no power, when charged car turned over

 

The battery is from Pepboys, dated in 08/19, I checked the voltage as 12V. I will charge it up and see. I also check the grounding, looks good, double up by hooking a jump wire from the - negative terminal to the engine block -> same thing... no crack. Busy at work this week, will do more troubleshoot this weekend.

 

Did you check to see if there was 12 volts at the s terminal on the starter relay when you tried to crsnk? Maybe the starter relay failed, no click means no power or failed relay on starter.

 

I was looking for the Starter Relay location and found 2 reference pictures, slightly different... the Delay Accessory Bus Relay is next to each it and they have the same part number, so I decided to swap them, same case, no Crank. I guess I can go back and check the Voltage across the relay and confirm that way. I also read there is a "fusible link" in the starter circuit, but couldn't find any reference to that location...


Starter Enable Relay

Theft Deterrent Relay

 

Got busy over the weekend and finally have time to work o the car again. Made the #1 mistake of troubleshooting, did a few things at once... So I started out check the battery voltage like bjankuski suggested and it was barely 12V. So I hook it up to my battery charger. While waiting, I check and tighten up the engine block ground cable, while under the car, I strike the starter solenoid a few times with the handle of a screw driver, then I checked the connector on the clutch neutral safety switch and everything checks out. Now with the battery charged, my car started with right away.

Good news is that its fixed, not so good is that I am not sure what was the problem...

Anyhow, thanks for the input and suggestion for troubleshooting my problem.