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Well, its your car - you can do whatever you want. The reasons not to do it include the horrendous smell when you first use your brakes after painting the disc, reduced braking effectiveness until the paint wears off, and contamination of the surface of the linings.
I repaired my floor pans recently, they were broken on both sides from the tire shops using floor jacks not positioned properly. It would be more difficult to repair from the bottom side because you would be fighting gravity. I pulled the seats and carpet and tapered the area around the damage with a course sanding disk and repaired using fiberglass cloth and SMC resin. I used construction tape on the bottom side for a backing because resin will not stick to it and it's easy to remove. The top is not visible under the carpet so I did no finish sanding on it. On the bottom side I removed the tape and sanded the area smooth, then sprayed black undercoat on the repair.
That is quite the amount of damage, consider a professional repair over DIY. Not trying to discourage, I did my own repair on the underside a few years back which still looks great (thread somewhere with how) but it was very small by comparison.
Well, its your car - you can do whatever you want. The reasons not to do it include the horrendous smell when you first use your brakes after painting the disc, reduced braking effectiveness until the paint wears off, and contamination of the surface of the linings.
Yep I experienced that ... but it’s the fastest way and will be replacing the pads shortly.
I repaired my floor pans recently, they were broken on both sides from the tire shops using floor jacks not positioned properly. It would be more difficult to repair from the bottom side because you would be fighting gravity. I pulled the seats and carpet and tapered the area around the damage with a course sanding disk and repaired using fiberglass cloth and SMC resin. I used construction tape on the bottom side for a backing because resin will not stick to it and it's easy to remove. The top is not visible under the carpet so I did no finish sanding on it. On the bottom side I removed the tape and sanded the area smooth, then sprayed black undercoat on the repair.
Thanks for the info I’ll give it a shot and see.
isn’t there like a ready pans or cover sheets that can be mounted on these areas to cover it (like steel, Alum. or hard plastic or something?) and would make it look better 🤔
That is quite the amount of damage, consider a professional repair over DIY. Not trying to discourage, I did my own repair on the underside a few years back which still looks great (thread somewhere with how) but it was very small by comparison.
Yeah I thought about that. But wanted to try and give it a go since I’m working on it and the weather is excellent for DIY
if it didn’t work then a professional...
My 85 was similar when I got it. I put the car on Jack Stands, pulled the seats, pulled back the carpet , then jacked up the floor to close the seam. (use plywood and wood on a floor jack)
I used wax paper to seal the outside of the joint - fiberglass will not stick to wax paper. Then glassed the inside using glass matt and resin.
Then put a thin cover of 4 oz cloth on the outside after the repair cured.
I did sand and roughen up both the inside and outside before I did the glass work. I also cleaned all areas with Acetone before I did glass work .
I used a West Marine kit for smc. I actually had pieces missing. There is a shield on underbody where floor transitions up toward firewall. You should see if it's damaged, if it's been "flattened out" it can pull floor down openning gap.
My 85 was similar when I got it. I put the car on Jack Stands, pulled the seats, pulled back the carpet , then jacked up the floor to close the seam. (use plywood and wood on a floor jack)
I used wax paper to seal the outside of the joint - fiberglass will not stick to wax paper. Then glassed the inside using glass matt and resin.
Then put a thin cover of 4 oz cloth on the outside after the repair cured.
I did sand and roughen up both the inside and outside before I did the glass work. I also cleaned all areas with Acetone before I did glass work .
It's really not bad, just overlap the glass mat to give a good bond. The cleaner and rougher the surface the better the bond.
My first thought back then was to pop-rivet an AL angle on the outside , and fill in the inside with cloth and filler = but decided not to go that way.
have a look here for inspiration. use the smc repair suff in this thread. properly prepare each surface for the adhesion to the smc repair. this job below was 10x worse than yours and i had no clue what i was doing. some simple woven glass matt to help with shape and then use the smc repair stuff.
toughest part of the job will be removing the interior. i used “evercoat 100836 professional panel bond 60”
have a look here for inspiration. use the smc repair suff in this thread. properly prepare each surface for the adhesion to the smc repair. this job below was 10x worse than yours and i had no clue what i was doing. some simple woven glass matt to help with shape and then use the smc repair stuff.
toughest part of the job will be removing the interior. i used “evercoat 100836 professional panel bond 60”
wow you are right I do feel better now mine is nothing compared to yours ...
perfect work there looks very nice.
and you are right removing the interiors was hell... !! I’ll post some photos tomorrow.
And I noticed you installed the heat shield on the floor, was it pain to do that job or you had a shop do it for you?
I don’t have that under my carpet and was thinking to install it while I’m there .... Saw a full cut kit @ Eckler’s any feedback on it?
wow you are right I do feel better now mine is nothing compared to yours ...
perfect work there looks very nice.
and you are right removing the interiors was hell... !! I’ll post some photos tomorrow.
And I noticed you installed the heat shield on the floor, was it pain to do that job or you had a shop do it for you?
I don’t have that under my carpet and was thinking to install it while I’m there .... Saw a full cut kit @ Eckler’s any feedback on it?
yes mine turned out very nice. i never did post a final product after i used the duplicolor bedliner. looks oem.
yours will too.
in all likely hood you dont need any fiber mat however id used it anyway if nothing else to help hold the gap fill till it sets up. use the fiber on the INSIDE and i would overlap by 3/4”.
Use your noggin and clean it up really well. u need the quality mask. your repair is tiny so a dremel with a grinding stone and a shop vac would be fine to prepare. smear the adhesive into the freshly prepared panel with a gloved finger. somehow u will need to find a way to saturate that fiber mat. maybe you do not even need it i dont know.
i will post a photo of how i stored that evercoat stuff between uses so it doesnt setup on u. grab 3 extra nozzles.
on the heat shield, i used frost king peel and stick and it was super easy. i had my entire interior gutted it was very very easy with a nice sharp boxcutter!
This is an interesting thread. I have a hole about the size of a quarter between the floorboard and firewall (probably from a misplaced jack). I plan on fixing it once it gets warmer and all the info on prep is great. I bought this
This is an interesting thread. I have a hole about the size of a quarter between the floorboard and firewall (probably from a misplaced jack). I plan on fixing it once it gets warmer and all the info on prep is great. I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and hope this stuff will cover the hole. Do I need anything else? Or will good prep work and this product work?
your not deaing with fiberglass resin on the vette. thats what i learned when i did my extreme repair. its called smc. sheet molded compound.
you will need to see if that bondo brand stuff you picked up says smc compatible. i suspect it is not.
Underbody repair
