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They last forever if taken care of. People here panic when they have 100k miles on their engine. 200-300k mile LS engine shrug off boost.
Btw, my car does just fine on the street (I guarantee it got more miles on it this year than 99% of the C4s here), and is very capable in both autocross and twisty roads.
Yes, I'm using an aftermarket ECU. I've made this EXACT same amount of power before on a $150 stock LS truck ECU/Harness I bought from Facebook marketplace in my Nova.
The aftermarket ECU has more options, and my car uses a LOT of them. It was a situational purchase, not a requirement.
Both my ECU AND a stock LS ECU can communicate with an early C4 dash. I wasn't aware he was using an LT1 based setup which greatly complicates and LS swap as far as electronic compatibility.
If it was an early one, its a no-brainer swap.
I still can't fathom spending $8k for 450 HP. To each his own, but just thinking about that makes me sick lol.
If I'm spending 8k on anything its making 600+. I priced out everything to build a 427 and it wasn't even that much.
That said the core prices on junkyard engines I've found is skewed around here. Can't pull it yourself anywhere so right there you're paying for their labor and if you find one that a guys selling he wants 1400 for it. I've got 2 lq4 powered vehicles in my driveway right now. Combined mileage between the 2 is north of 600k. And if I add the power they both put down together right now it'll be about what it should've made stock. (in all fairness the pedal was buried more than it spent at any other position... they do get tired.) The one knocks a little when its cold (not piston slap because the other one does that) but that goes away because oil pressure goes up as it warms... (again, wtf?) When one of them let's loose I'm taking the engine slapping a blower on it and throwing in the lightest smallest chassis i can get my hands on and seeing what it does. That's my next project. Gen 1 has its place.
I'm not sure what is involved in a swap to an LS for your car but you should check this out. You get your 450HP, a warranty, and an assembled long block with cam for only 1/2 your budget.
Lots of bang for the buck here. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19370163.html
I'm not sure what is involved in a swap to an LS for your car but you should check this out. You get your 450HP, a warranty, and an assembled long block with cam for only 1/2 your budget.
Lots of bang for the buck here. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19370163.html
That's 450 at the crank, not the wheels. Big difference. And there's just one or two pieces missing to make it work in an LT-powered C4...
Is there a way to pull engine without decompressing a/c. If not what's the easiest way to decompress it. Also where are the knock sensors to drain coolant I can't seem to find them
Is there a way to pull engine without decompressing a/c. If not what's the easiest way to decompress it. Also where are the knock sensors to drain coolant I can't seem to find them
You should have enough flex in the lines to unbolt the compressor and swing it out of the way.
The knock sensors are on the side of the block about half way up from the edge of the pan.
I am only going to have the cherry picker for 1 day so I want to have everything ready.
3/8-16 is the size, 2 3/4 or 3” is the length. I believe I used 2 3/4” length with my harbor freight stand. General rule of thumb is 1.5x the width of the bolt for engagement if I’m remembering correctly.
My 396LT1 makes 425 RWHP with an auto.. Very streetable. So, I can see a heavier cammed 383 making the same or more.
Many guys on this forum back in the early 2000's had some great builds do that.
LS swaps are nice, but, its the dash and getting it to work is the difficult part.. But, its been done.
My 396LT1 makes 425 RWHP with an auto.. Very streetable. So, I can see a heavier cammed 383 making the same or more.
Many guys on this forum back in the early 2000's had some great builds do that.
LS swaps are nice, but, its the dash and getting it to work is the difficult part.. But, its been done.
I'll be sure to post my dyno graph when I am finished. I am hoping for at least that when all said and done.
Okay here is the next major update guys. I got the engine out of the car. I used a engine cherry picker that I borrowed from a friend and then took some ratchet straps and rapped it around the engine and hooked it to the hoist. Once it was hooked up I unbolted the bellhousing from the tranny and unbolted the bottom of the engine mounts. Then I took the 4 bolts out of the c-beam. The front ones are hard because there isn't much room to get a wrench around the nut at the top but a friend with small hands was able to get it done. Once the c-beam was free I was able to take the straps off the rear end of the driveshaft. I could then push the driveshaft forward allowing it to clear the u-joint yolk then pull it out of the transmission. During this whole thing I had a jack holding up my tranny. I then had a friend lower the jack while I helped balance the tranny. When the jack was all the way down I got some blocks to help support it and called it a day. I may try and replace the jack with some more blocks so I can use my jack but for the time being that is what I got. Once the tranny was out of the way, I just slowly jacked up the engine watching to make sure I moved stuff out of the way and didn't miss any wires. I jacked it diagonally so the front came up before the back, this allowed me to unbolt the accessory drive bracket and just set it to the side. The engine then came out and I set it on a old tire to take the bellhousing off, as well as the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate. The bolt size mentioned a few posts above was correct, I only had 3" bolts but used some washers to make up for it. Any specific questions let me know.
Two hurdles I have encountered are getting the oil filter adapter and the crank hub out. I took out the two bolts holding the adapter in but it still isn't coming loose. Is there something else holding it in or do I just need to introduce a hammer to it.
Apart from that, I know the crank hub is supposed to be taken out with a special Kent Moore tool. Is there any way around this? I really don't want to spend $300 to use something one time.
Two hurdles I have encountered are getting the oil filter adapter and the crank hub out. I took out the two bolts holding the adapter in but it still isn't coming loose. Is there something else holding it in or do I just need to introduce a hammer to it.
Apart from that, I know the crank hub is supposed to be taken out with a special Kent Moore tool. Is there any way around this? I really don't want to spend $300 to use something one time.
For the oil filter adapter, the part the filter threads to may be threaded if I'm thinking correctly.
As for the balancer... I believe you can rent one that will work from a local parts store. put down the money use it and bring it back and get the money back. Not sure if the lt is different than a regular sbc.
For the oil filter adapter, the part the filter threads to may be threaded if I'm thinking correctly.
As for the balancer... I believe you can rent one that will work from a local parts store. put down the money use it and bring it back and get the money back. Not sure if the lt is different than a regular sbc.
The only thing holding the oil filter housing on is two bolts. After removing those two bolts a light tap with a rubber mallet should dislodge it.
On the Hub removal, this is one of the tasks on an LT1, that I strongly believe in having the factory tools. Alejandro, if you want, I can loan you my two LT1 tool kits. PM me to work out the details.
The only thing holding the oil filter housing on is two bolts. After removing those two bolts a light tap with a rubber mallet should dislodge it.
On the Hub removal, this is one of the tasks on an LT1, that I strongly believe in having the factory tools. Alejandro, if you want, I can loan you my two LT1 tool kits. PM me to work out the details.
I may be thinking of the aftermarket type adapters... the doughnut type then. My bad.
While I have the engine and transmission out and apart is there anything I should do now as preventative maintenance that is made easier by the space? I am already going to do my reverse light switch because that is bad. My horn isn't working but I think that is in the dash so nothing made easier really. I am going to be cleaning everything. Is there any spots I should check for rust?
While I have the engine and transmission out and apart is there anything I should do now as preventative maintenance that is made easier by the space? I am already going to do my reverse light switch because that is bad. My horn isn't working but I think that is in the dash so nothing made easier really. I am going to be cleaning everything. Is there any spots I should check for rust?
I cleaned the transmission tunnel and installed heat/sound guard when my engine was out. The fuel filter is easy to do at this point too.
(in all fairness the pedal was buried more than it spent at any other position... they do get tired.) The one knocks a little when its cold (not piston slap because the other one does that) but that goes away because oil pressure goes up as it warms... (again, wtf?) When one of them let's loose I'm taking the engine slapping a blower on it and throwing in the lightest smallest chassis i can get my hands on and seeing what it does. That's my next project. Gen 1 has its place.
