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Should I change my engine mounts? Car has 100k miles. Is there a good way to check if mine are still good or is it best to just do it while the engine is out.
I would change the engine mounts now rather than later. I put new stock replacements when I installed my 383. A year later they were shot so I replaced them with poly mounts. The poly mounts made a world of difference. The engine moved so much with the stock worn out mounts that I broke the mechanical oil pressure gauge line 3 times. Figured the 3rd time was my last warning. Do it now.
Can anyone tell me what this is? It's been over a month since I removed it so I can't remember, I just know it came out during the process of removing the engine / transmission / bellhousing. I looked in my service manual diagrams and couldn't find anything. Appreciate any help
Can anyone tell me what this is? It's been over a month since I removed it so I can't remember, I just know it came out during the process of removing the engine / transmission / bellhousing. I looked in my service manual diagrams and couldn't find anything. Appreciate any help
Its the plate between the bell housing and the tranny
Its the plate between the bell housing and the tranny
Mine got kind of bent up during removal, is this something I can just bend back to being mostly flat and put back? I would just buy a new one but so far I haven't been able to find one.
Mine got kind of bent up during removal, is this something I can just bend back to being mostly flat and put back? I would just buy a new one but so far I haven't been able to find one.
Sure. I've had to "flatten" these a few times before. Is it currently in the condition seen in the picture?
Mine got kind of bent up during removal, is this something I can just bend back to being mostly flat and put back? I would just buy a new one but so far I haven't been able to find one.
Yeah, it's going to be held flat once you clamp it back between the engine and bellhousing. However, I would take some steel wool and clean the mating surfaces on both sides well. It's important that the transmission sit perfectly straight in there so as not to put a side loading on the input shaft.
1350 is the correct size/style. However, instead of the greasable one you linked, I'd recommend the 5-3615X. It's non-greasable, which makes it stronger, and the caps are coated so they won't corrode to the aluminum yokes.
PS - If you're willing to forego the coated caps, Denny's Driveshafts has a set of four non-greasable Spicers for $70, which is a hell of a lot cheaper than those Summit prices. Many people have run the uncoated caps with zero problems. They sell the same 5-3615X I linked above (coated caps, non-greasable) individually for cheaper than Summit, too.
Last edited by MatthewMiller; Jan 28, 2021 at 09:20 PM.
It says these don't fit my car but they appear to be what I need so if they don't I suppose I can just return them. Thanks for the tip
Not sure why they say that. If you compare the dimensions they are all the same, which they have to be since they are both 1350 form factors. Anyway, Denny's says both versions fit any C2-C4 Corvette, and I know several people who've used the 5-3615X joints on their C4s.
Not sure why they say that. If you compare the dimensions they are all the same, which they have to be since they are both 1350 form factors. Anyway, Denny's says both versions fit any C2-C4 Corvette, and I know several people who've used the 5-3615X joints on their C4s.
I just put mine in Monday. Can confirm they are identical to the factory ones I removed.
So my reverse lights where going bonkers before I took everything apart. There was a period of time when they didn't work at all, then the few days preceding my dismantling of the car they where always on if the car was on. I now have the reverse light switch on my desk and it looks fine, I don't suppose there is a way of testing if this was the problem without the transmission hooked up to, well anything? Is this the most likely culprit?
Also considering ordering a short throw shifter, has anyone had problems with not having a reverse lockout? that is the only thing that concerns me. I assume the install will be much more easy with the tranny dropped from the car?
So my reverse lights where going bonkers before I took everything apart. There was a period of time when they didn't work at all, then the few days preceding my dismantling of the car they where always on if the car was on. I now have the reverse light switch on my desk and it looks fine, I don't suppose there is a way of testing if this was the problem without the transmission hooked up to, well anything? Is this the most likely culprit?
Sure, just test for continuity across it in both positions. It should have continuity when the trans is in reverse, and it should be an open circuit when it's not in reverse. Also, make sure it actually moves to those two positions when it's on the trans and the shifter is placed in and out of reverse.
Last edited by MatthewMiller; Jan 29, 2021 at 02:44 PM.
Lots of people recommended I get Bosche 3 30lb fuel injectors when I was planning my build but now that I am about done I am starting to think they are not enough. I see many people running injectors closer to 50 lbs and even some near 100, do I need to start looking for bigger ones?
Lots of people recommended I get Bosche 3 30lb fuel injectors when I was planning my build but now that I am about done I am starting to think they are not enough. I see many people running injectors closer to 50 lbs and even some near 100, do I need to start looking for bigger ones?
My 396 with heads similar to AFR 195 Comps and a smaller CC XFI cam probably made 420rwhp. It had Lucas 38lb injectors, which were plenty for that application.
A friend of mine recommended getting a AFR gauge for my car, however my headers only have 1 02 sensor port on each one. Should I run one 02 sensor and one AFR, or have a dual AFR gauge or not run any and have 2 O2 gauges?