I was also wondering that, the security light isn't on when attempting to start. It had from a previous owner one of those VATS bypass things under that dash and when I got my tune done from pcmforless I had him remove vats so I was wondering if something went wrong there

 

So I got my battery tested at 3 places, one said it was good, one said it was bad, one said it was good but on the last 1/4 of life, well it's only 1 year old so it shouldn't be. The place that holds the warranty isn't open till Monday so I'm gonna swap batteries and hope that does it

 

It started for the first time in almost 6 months!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MGsw2EC4oD1YJNLH9
It's pretty high rpms on start so I need to figure that out but it feels like a big step

 

Fck yea!!!



Not the most ideal idle RPM, esp for a first start, but like you said, its ALIVE!!

No other feeling then cranking a brand new motor, AND it comes on.

 

So when I start it it starts at 4k rpms and never comes down, I haven't left it running for longer than a few seconds since the engine hasn't been broken in yet and I don't want to damage anything. Any ideas what it might be? Also it still won't start without be grounding it with a jumper cable, I cleaned contact points and replaced the ground cable and it still isn't working. Any ideas for either?

 

Load test the battery thats now installed in the car.

 

The battery is brand new, just got a new one today. I can pull it and have it double checked tho. What I'm doing to start it is but a jumper cable ground cable on the ground post and then the other end just on the frame of the car which makes me think the battery isn't the problem necessarily

 

what happens when you attempt to start without the jumpers?

Did you remember to reattach ground G107 on the bell housing?

Double check all ur grounds

 

If I try and start it without grounding it with the jumper the starter clicks but It won't turn over. I'll double check that ground you mentioned.

 

It seems like something is going on with the grounding of the installed battery. When you attach the jumper cable to the chassis it works but jumper cable on the negative post does not sounds like something is happening between the new battery neg post and the chassis. Follow the negative cable from the battery post to the chassis.

 

I'm going to play around with it. I did find one ground behind the engine that has 3 wires going to it that wasn't connected to anything, I don't see how that would be the issue but I'm going to fix it and see. It's a brand new ground cable to one going to try and clean the contact points with a wire brush even more and try again.

 

So I think the problem with the ground was indeed that one ground that wasn't connected I hooked it up and it started once and then it didn't start again I think that's just because the battery was dead though. The super high idol was because of the cable for the throttle body is holding it open just a little bit so I'm going to have to try and figure out how to make sure that closes all the way

 

 

It's being held open quite a bit, any ideas?

 

Im not sure if the same issue, but I just fought and 'solved' my high idle problem when warm.
A scantool would show a slight throttle angle (ex. 1%)/resulting high idle, when letting off the gas slowly. If I quickly stabbed the gas, it would settle back down to 0%, it was a real PITA to solve. I replaced TPS and IAC sensors with NOS parts and no improvement.

Like you, I have the AS&M monoblade. Last fall, I noticed 2 of the screws seemed loose. The screws tht hold the butterfly to the shaft. So I tightened them down HARD.
Thats when the trouble started

My problem was that butterfly became 'uncentered' and as the aluminum TB would heat up, it would 'rub' sticking open slightly giving me that 1% throttle angle and high idle.

I made a post last week about it and forum members advised me to loosen the screws (holding the throttle butterfly blade to the shaft), then 'snap' the blade open and closed a couple times aggressively. This 'centered' the butterfly on the shaft. (its such tight clearances). I gradually tightened all the screws, continuing to snap it open and shut a few times to ensure everything remained centered.

This FIXED this very annoying hi-idle problem. Hope this helps

What steered me to this solution was when I put back on my stock throttle body and the problem went away . So I KNEW it was something in the throttle body.

 

I'll go through everything in here and see if it helps but I think we are having different problems. If I take the cable off it closes completly and idles just fine, it almost feels like the cable is about half an inch too short.

 

I think I figured out both my issues. The ASR line had a small button I was able to press that let the cable stretch out to the proper length. Then on the ground, the block was painted and there was a fair bit of paint between the ground and the block, I scraped that off and it seems to be a lot more cooperative.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PZxBUhvqkXCeTH867
it's alive !

 

Cam sounds nice

 

Still struggling with that ground, I think it's the G107 mentioned above. No matter what I do it seems to start one time then not want to start again. I did end up cutting it and trying to splice it onto another wire to extend it and whole it definitely feels like the connection is good it's still giving me trouble. I rerouted it to 9ne of the other ground bolts on the engine the one on the passenger side right above the timing cover.