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Do you think with my mods going with a 3" exhaust would be worth it or should I just have them bolt up my stock exhaust that had the resonator replaced with a x pipe.
Do you think with my mods going with a 3" exhaust would be worth it or should I just have them bolt up my stock exhaust that had the resonator replaced with a x pipe.
Def go 3". I went 2.5 on my 383 and it was too small.
It feels like it's just one problem after another, this time my passenger side parking brake return spring appears to not be strong enough to pull it back far enough to disengage. If I get like a screwdriver under there or something I can pry it back to the bad position and it disengages but the string isn't doing it by itself. Is there a bolt I need to loosen or a place I can spray some WD-40 to fix this? Or do I need a new caliper. I haven't bled the brakes yet but that shouldn't be the issue right? Driver side works fine
I spent about 2 hours bleeding the brakes and just couldn't. Come to find out how of my bleeder valves was bad and leaking. So I had a plug that was the right thread size so I just plugged it and figured it would be good enough to get it to the exhaust shop and I could just have them use the vacuum thing to bleed it I had zero brake pressure, peddle might as well have not been there. I had to just use engine braking to come to a stop about 15 yards early, shut it off and put it in gear till I could drive then start it and take off. Hopefully it'll be ready today but he said that he has to send it out for alignment so don't be surprised if it goes into tomorrow some.
Still want to figure out my parking brake, also if anyone has suggestions for fabricating a new alternator/ac compressor bracket please let me know.
Do y'all think I need a heavy duty starter? The shop I took it to for exhaust is a full service shop and it didn't start once it got there. They told me they thought it was the starter
So I got under the car and saw my grounding strap had once again broken, this time the bolt hole thing came off the strap itself. Does anyone see any problem with moving it from the bellhousing bolt to one of the side of engine grounding bolts so it's easier to inspect / replace should this happen again?
I don't see an issue using the block itself instead of the bell housing as long as there is continuity so the parts grounded on the bell housing will still be grounded.
I don't see an issue using the block itself instead of the bell housing as long as there is continuity so the parts grounded on the bell housing will still be grounded.
I checked just to be sure by running my multimeter from the hole I am using to that bolt and they did in fact have continuity.
It was running fine and I went and got it aligned, and on my way back it overheated. I pulled over and the reservoir cap came off, (I am hoping this was caused because I just didn't tighten it enough?) and spewed coolant on the ground. I had someone bring me some coolant and filled it up and let the E-Water pump run it through the system then drove it the rest of the half mile home, it didn't overheat on the way home, stayed between 220-230. But on the way home it was running like ****. Was just kind of bogging along. I got home and pulled codes and got 2 new ones, H33, and H44. I am going to have to figure out what is causing all this.
it was running fine and i went and got it aligned, and on my way back it overheated. I pulled over and the reservoir cap came off, (i am hoping this was caused because i just didn't tighten it enough?) and spewed coolant on the ground. I had someone bring me some coolant and filled it up and let the e-water pump run it through the system then drove it the rest of the half mile home, it didn't overheat on the way home, stayed between 220-230. But on the way home it was running like ****. Was just kind of bogging along. I got home and pulled codes and got 2 new ones, h33, and h44. I am going to have to figure out what is causing all this.
I found a problem, idk if it's the problem. This hose running from a black module that them runs to the throttle body looked like of cooked so I disconnected it and it was completely plugged with what I can only guess is burnt rubber. Amy ideas on how to clean this out
So looks like that's the EVAP fuel thing and that charcoal is supposed to be there, mom the less that hose needed to be replaced. Can I just slap a new one on or have I lost too much charcoal. If so what's the next step
Last edited by Alejandro Guerrero; May 10, 2021 at 05:30 PM.
Replaced that hose. Here is what it's doinghttps://photos.app.goo.gl/ZEC3oWmpuCWZRrHz7
cleared the codes and H33, was gone, but was back after that first start up. Tried unplugging the map sensor and running car and it ran exactly the same, this time h34 came from doing that however.
