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A friend of mine recommended getting a AFR gauge for my car, however my headers only have 1 02 sensor port on each one. Should I run one 02 sensor and one AFR, or have a dual AFR gauge or not run any and have 2 O2 gauges?
You definitely need to run both O2 sensors so your PCM gets those signals in closed-loop operation. If you really need an AFR gauge, you can add an extra bung in one of the headers or in the exhaust system just aft of the collector flange. They sell those threaded bungs, and you just cut a hole and have it welded in. OTOH, if you're not sure why you need an AFR gauge then you probably don't need it. You can always get $EEHack and log the O2 sensor readings. If you want a good wide-band reading for tuning purposes, then add the extra bung like I said. That's how mine was set up. I didn't use it because the car was already tuned when I got it, but the bung was there with a pipe plug, available for use if I ever needed it.
Few more questions, I will be getting rid of the EGR/AIR system since I am installing headers, since I am not using my original exhaust manifold do I still need the plate kit such as this? https://www.ecklers.com/1992-1996-co...-390441-1.html
Also how do I seal the one hose that goes down to my vacuum tank?
Lots of people recommended I get Bosche 3 30lb fuel injectors when I was planning my build but now that I am about done I am starting to think they are not enough. I see many people running injectors closer to 50 lbs and even some near 100, do I need to start looking for bigger ones?
I installed these and that's enough. Now has been dyno tested at 403hp and the output is enough even more if needed.
I am trying to install my new timing chain and worried about having everything lined up. Silly me put the heads on before I did this so I can't see when the #1 piston is top dead center. Whats is the best way to do this. Do I need to take my head off?
I am ready to measure my pushrods and came across this quote on another post
"First problem is that I have hydraulic roller lifters. If you measure pushrod length with them installed you get a false reading. I took an old lifter apart, took out the guts, and ground down an old head bolt that took up all of the slack the hydraulic part used to. Then installed the cap and retainer clip."
Is there any truth to this? Why would this cause a problem.
That makes sense. Thanks for the tip was able to find a thread on how to fix my problem.
FWIW, my 396 didn't have a full windage tray like that. It just had a scraper on one side of the pan, but then it had a really good 7qt Kevko pan with baffles. It never had issues with oil aeration, even on extended track days.
While putting my control arms on it appears one of the nuts fell in this hole. I couldn't figure out a way to get it out. Does one exist or should I just accept defeat and make another trip to the bolt/nut section of my local hardware store.
My crank hub doesn't have a key slot in it, I didn't pay attention to this while taking it apart. Do I need to take the key out once the sprocket is in there or how does this work?
I've tried both a shop press and the nut and bolt method for getting these new bushings into my spindle rods, I can't get them to pop in it always just ends up squishing them. Any tips?
Engine is in the car, we tried starting it and it clicked but wouldn't start. Then the speedo wouldn't even light up with the key on and it wouldn't click. Tried jumping the starter and the speedo came back on and it clicks again but won't turn over. Pulled starter and tested it and it works. Any ideas?
Engine is in the car, we tried starting it and it clicked but wouldn't start. Then the speedo wouldn't even light up with the key on and it wouldn't click. Tried jumping the starter and the speedo came back on and it clicks again but won't turn over. Pulled starter and tested it and it works. Any ideas?
It sounds like a bad ground or positive connection to me.
Sometimes the fans are turning on as well when they key is put into the on position, I read this only happens if the ecu is having errors, is there anyway the tune could have it clicking but not starting? Going to check grounds and positives tommorow.
Depending, it could also be something with the anti-theift as well. My old truck did some weird things because of that. Similar system. The cables are easy enough and can cause weird things so I'd do that first. Then I'd move to other things like the ECM and security. But if it worked before start with what was changed first imo.
