GM 700r4





Tell us where you live and I'm sure that someone on the forum can suggest a GOOD trany shop.
Thats what I would do if it were mine.
Automatics are not difficult to remove and install. The only thing that I would recommend that you get a good handle onwould be the TV cable adjustment. If that is not correct the new trans be it stock or the best one money can buy will not last long.
Bill C :thumbs:
The first test drive resulted in me bringing it back. I told the service manager that it didn't feel right. He said it was a new tranny and would be a little tighter and funny feeling for a while. I relented, but told him it just wasn't right.
Well, 6 weeks later I was back there with a dead tranny (3-4) clutch died again. I looked at the manager and told him "I told you so". There wasn't enough damage to get another new tranny, so an overhaul was done at no charge. That was 50K miles ago, and I have had no real problems since. I have changed the fluid to Mobil1 synthetic since the rebuild with a filter change as well.
Make sure you get a CORVETTE tranny and not a truck or camaro tranny, or else it will fail. There are numerous TSB's out on the 700R4/4L60. Make sure the dealer has proof these are incorporated into the tranny so it will live a long healthy life. Most are simple changes, but they do envolve disassembly.
(Okay guys, don't all jump on my at once, this is just my opinion, you can all have your own, that's what makes the net so great!)
Good Luck,
Bob
tony
:thumbs:
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
BTW: The guy has a LPE 385 with a 200hp Direct Port Nirous Setup. He runs consistent 10.3's in the ¼. He also has a 5000 stall converter in it!
He's hard to get a hold of (very popular), and he's not cheap, but he's got the ear of some really well known people in the field (think Lingenfelter).
He's also the only guy who claims to make a tranny live behind 750 hp that DOESN'T have any negative comments that I've found so far (unlike Raptor, Bowtie Overdrive, et. al.)
I can't personally vouch for his abilities as my tranny had the nerve to give it up just before my TWINS WERE BORN (that'd be Dec 17th, 4:18pm), but he's who I'm going with when I come up for air, temporally and financially.
He DOES sell rebuild kits, so that's a route you can take also.
Brian Hartman 303-649-1808
303-649-1164 (fax) SyTy Tranny Parts
brianhartman@sprintmail.com
This guy is one of the few people that have continued to develop racing tech for transmissions. A lot of the real popular folks (Art Carr, etc.) won't sell you a 700r4 solution because they stopped R&D with the th400.
As far as roadrace situations, that's exactly what I'm having spec'd up. Once the tranny is beefed up, and it's got quality fluid in it, and it's adequately cooled, roadracing shouldn't be an issue.
Doing my research for the tranny, I found that, while every big city has one or more tranny shops, they all purchase from a very small number of suppliers. It's up to the shop to know how to take the parts and put them together to get them to live.
Brian IS one of those suppliers, he builds the parts that are sold to other people to put in transmissions. He also is extremely knowledgable where it comes to the math/physics/dyanmics behind why and how a tranny works. I called Bowtie, I called both Art Carrs (CA. and TX, two different shops.), and I read an awful lot on the net about Raptor. These guys can slap some stuff together, but I didn't get a warm fuzzy feeling from any of them. They didn't know how to make a 700r4 situation work, and they were more than happy to slam the competition. I talked to Brian for about 90 minutes one night, my BS meter (which is pretty sensitive) didn't quiver.
Many stockers run over 100K miles with no issues.
Also, I have seen guys put 100's of 1/4 mile passes on the 700R4 with no issues. Just like with other parts, nothing lasts forever.
Vic
Many stockers run over 100K miles with no issues.
Also, I have seen guys put 100's of 1/4 mile passes on the 700R4 with no issues. Just like with other parts, nothing lasts forever.
Vic
Known weak points are the input sprag, 3/4 clutchpack and sun shell assembly. A common practice is to place a couple of additional friction plates in the 3/4 clutchpack...it SOUNDS like a good idea, but it really isn't. If you add surface area (more plates) without increasing pressure, you actually REDUCE the clamping pressure, as it's a pound-force per square inch issue -- increase the square inch without increasing the pressure and you haven't improved anything. (think about that indian guy lieing on a bed of nails...if he's on 5 nails, he's a pincushion...if he's lieing on 150 nails, he'll be fine...)
As it is, my motor took out fourth gear about 24 hours after I got it properly tuned (and now that I know what to look for, it'd been slowly failing for quite awhile into the tuining process). Since 4th was gone, I was essentially driving a th400 (third gear in both trannys is 1:1), with a 2.82 rearend, I was getting 12 mpg on the highway and turning 2400 rpm.
IF I put a 400 in the car and changed it to a more advantagous 3.07 rear-end, I'd be turning _2600_ rpm, with mileage to suit. :U That's what Art Carr California suggested. When I brought up the cruise rpm, he said "Well, your father drove a car like that for YEARS and it didn't hurt anything." I thought, "Yeah, and I'm not driving my father's Oldsmobile!"
While the gear vendors OD looks good, I just don't wanna take that route. Why? I dunno. I just don't.
it have 40k orig miles on it. converting to 5spd(for now).
You can have it for $850, but i would know how to ship it
so you can come check it out and if you like you can take it with you,
I'm in northern NJ.
LMK. - email me
















